I know this isn't a brandnew question, but I need to quote this job this afternoon and need to know if this will work. 4x5' sign for a recreation complex, one indoors, one outdoors, Dibond, 18 lines of text. The plan is to use vinyl for the letters, and a urethane based automotive clearcoat to protect it from kids peeling the letters off. I'm also thinking of waxing the sign, so that markers or pens can't be used to write on it. Question: do you see any possible problems with this method? Is there a more efficient way of doing it? I don't have an Edge, and I don't want to use graffiti protection film over vinyl letters. Any response appreciated. Thanks.
Posted by Felix Marcano (Member # 1833) on :
I dunno if it'll work against grafitti, but I use oracal clear when I don't wanna spray clear. I used clear once & the kids still peeled the letters off, & the clear & paint came off too..
Hope this helps!
Posted by Bruce Bowers (Member # 892) on :
Lotti,
One coat of clear is insufficient protection. You will need to build up several layers to make the signs "kid proof".
We do signs for an amusement park and had the same problems with the kids picking the vinyl off. Four to five coats of clear with hardener in it seems to be stemming the tide of vandalism.
The secret is to make sure that there is no hard edges for the kids to catch their nails on. It is an added expense that would be needed to be dealt with.
Posted by Ron Costa (Member # 3366) on :
I use the same method Bruce suggested. Kids get fidgitty standing in line waiting for their turn to ride. I spray a couple of tack coats and let that stand for about 3 minutes, longer if it is a slow drying clear. Then lace at least two good coats. Ben working good so far.
Posted by Danny Busselle (Member # 3746) on :
Hi well Kid proof... cover it with clear "LEXAN" 3/32" or so knife proof put all the markers they want on it and come back with a cheap can of aqua net hair spray wipes off. Test it been using it for years. Regards
Posted by Lotti Prokott (Member # 2684) on :
Thank you for the good advice. I realize that I have to add some extra cost to this. One of my concerns was also that the clear does not adhere to the vinyl good enough, do I have to use enamel receptive or matte vinyl? Does it matter with urethanes? I like the idea of using Lexan, I'll get a price on that too.
Posted by Brian Crothers (Member # 2888) on :
Lexan is like trying to see the sign through water that is slightly dirty. An automotive clear is the ticket, like everyone is saying; fog and wait, fog and wait, then hit it heavy. This also bumps up the colour unlike lexan. We use it on bench backs with a bit of flattening agent otherwise too much glare. A good product that is fairly forgiving is "Lesonol" Automotive clear.
Posted by Sonny Franks (Member # 588) on :
Consider reverse-cutting the vinyl and apply it to clear plex or lexan, then roll or spray the background color. You should wait to paint it until the vinyl has gone thru its "shrinking".You can also use textures, gradients or faux finishes. The final sign is all sub-surface and you don't have the moisture problems with a Lexan cover.
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