I just removed some Signgold from my truck. It wasn't much, but a pain to remove. At least now I know how that stuff was made.
Heating & chiseling only removes the tedlar layer (& a small portion of the gold) leaving behind most of the gold & adhesive, to push around. Nothing more. That's it. The only solid part is the tedlar coating. The rest came off with a generous amount of adhesive remover, which worked out well (luckily).
So just remember, if you have to do this sometime, to charge accordingly because it'll take longer than you'd normally think it should.
Posted by roger bailey (Member # 556) on :
Bill, what was your sourse of heat?
Roger
Posted by Bill Cosharek (Member # 1274) on :
Heat gun. But do you think your tree would do better at removing the tedlar AND the adhesive? That stuff's pretty aggressive. Seems like its gonna leave a mess no matter what you use. But if your way works better, I'm listening. But don't tell me Rapid Remover is the answer because that's only for cleanup afterwards, right?
Posted by roger bailey (Member # 556) on :
Right on both counts Bill !
Try the "heat tree", talk to the local bodyshop supplier.
Roger Posted by Doug Allan (Member # 2247) on :
Try laying it down on a base of high performance vinyl. I had some on my last truck, & like Bill it was only a small amount but took longer then removing an auto-wrap...well...almost
Next time for sure I will have a base under it. I had 10" x 30" reflective lettering on a h/p vinyl base (outline/shadow) that came off in a heartbeat, but my 12" x 12" reflective logo on the back door did similar to the signgold. The thick metallic-ish vinyl came off easy with NO adhesive. That part took forever. Rapid remover helped, but not enough to make the task rapid.
Posted by KARYN BUSH (Member # 1948) on :
get one of those orange rubber wheels for your drill..i'd rather pay $15-20 for it and save hours of time..it works slick!
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