Here in Iowa we now are able to operate our ATV's along the roads as long as they are registered. Most of them have plastic fenders that is ABS I think. It has an oily feel to it. Anyway my question is: What do you do to get the paint or vinyl to stick to that stuff? Is there a prep or something you can etch the plastic with or should you just use a scratch pad? Most customers shiver when I mention a scratch pad! Thanks for your help! Posted by Ken Henry (Member # 598) on :
Hi Rob. What you might try is flame treating the areas that you wish to apply the vinyl to. This involves using a butane or propane torch, and quickly passing the flame over the area you want to treat. The plastic fenders probably have a mould-releasing agent on all surfaces which normally prevents the vinyl from adhering properly. The flame burns this off, exposing only the plastic surface. As added insurance, you can wipe down the treated areas with Rapid Prep as well.
Hope this helps you out.
Posted by Monte Jumper (Member # 1106) on :
The flaming is correct (and a must do) but you may have to resort to using an intermediate film for good adhesion...I don't know wwwhy it just seems to hold better on a short term...besides it is tougher than H/P.
Posted by mike meyer (Member # 542) on :
Those ATV's must scare the horses on the roads huh?
Posted by roger bailey (Member # 556) on :
My son and I have been riding dirt machines for over 20 years, we wipe em down with Rapid Prep and apply vinyl (wet) with Rapid Tac II.
The biggest supplier of "dirt bike graphics" (Decal Works) is now selling a kit that is much the same.
The fuel tanks will out gass fuel, eventually the vinyl will bubble on tanks.
Roger Posted by Cheryl Lucas (Member # 1656) on :
There's that Roger, beatin' me to it again!
That's right, down here in the South, we just clean 'em up real good with Rapid Prep and smack them stickies right on them plastic fenders!
Monte's right, I use intermediate vinyl, seems to hold up pretty well against the palmetto bushes around here and the occasional pine tree!
Just don't expect 'em to last too long and look good, if yer doing any rough ridin'... ha, I guess much like a lot of things, huh?
Cher.
Posted by Brian Snyder (Member # 41) on :
Gerber's "Permagrip" vinyl (made by 3M) works well as does Graphic Marking Systems' "high bond convex". www.graphicms.com Posted by Bruce Evans (Member # 44) on :
I went through this awhile back when i bought a new dirt bike. The plastic is what they call a "low energy" plastic. I ended up buying stuff called "convex" vinyl from www.graphicms.com They sell this material to football helmet makers and people who make dirtbike graphics kits. I printed on it with the edge and then used an overlaminate to get it to 14mil thickness. Sticks real good.
Posted by Ted Nesbitt (Member # 3292) on :
Brian beat me to the PERMAGRIP suggestion. It's a great product for printing or EDGEing(?) that is made specifically for "adhesion to Low Surface Energy Plastics and Oily Metal Surfaces".
I wrapped a plastic Coleman Picnic Cooler in BUD/Dale Earnhardt Jr graphics for a NASCAR race last year and could have sold the thing for lotsa US$$$. You know how that pebbly plastic is for vinyl adhesion, and these graphics have held up great!
Posted by mark pfeil (Member # 3804) on :
We stock a Product called Convex High Bond. It is designed for this purpose, sticks to these low serface energy plastics! Conforms to these surfaces well.
[ April 15, 2003, 05:00 PM: Message edited by: mark pfeil ]
Posted by Steve Aycock (Member # 3612) on :
I place and replace vinyl on my 4 wheeler all the time as well as doing graphics jobs for guys at the track. I use oracal 651 series. I wipe 'em down with a bit of alcohol and apply dry. I use a heat gun to get around the bends and use a balled up cloth as a squeegee.
I've never had any trouble applying to fenders of any sort.
The fuel tanks do "gas out" vinyl will eventually fall off.
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