I've got a 36"x60" piece of aluminum to cover this with. And later this week, I've got a 4'x8' sheet of omega board!
ANY SUGGESTIONS?
Posted by Doug Allan (Member # 2247) on :
a few little seams in the tedlar looks far better then grafitti. Just tell your client thats the "way it is done". I had to cover a 4 x 6 sign & it was my first time ever using it. It's 1 mil thick & without transfer tape, it's a completely different animal then a normal 2 mil vinyl install with the benefits of transfer tape as well.
I cut mine into 2 pcs. 24" X 72" & it was still, how did you put it ?... a %##!@* to install!
Next time I might cut into even smaller pcs. I also used a felt squeegee!
Posted by Dave Grundy (Member # 103) on :
Yup Vipul!!! Just do it..Charge big bux and do the job!!! How tough can it be? Sheesh..if I can apply 10' long SignGold lettering to a sailboat, in the water, on a windy day...applying a tedlar laminate can't be THAT bad can it??? LOL LOL LOL:)
Try RapidTac! Posted by Vipul Chitania (Member # 3113) on :
I thought about doing it in pieces...wondering if it wouldn't look right...but then, it is better than graffiti!
Posted by roger bailey (Member # 556) on :
I'll have to do some research on this, have yet to try it with Rapid Tac products.
Anyone out there put the two together ? Roger Posted by Vipul Chitania (Member # 3113) on :
I tried with Rapid Tac 2...maybe I didn't spray it enough.
We just tried to hold it taught, lay it down from right to left. It wrinkles **VERY** eash. And boy, do you have to be careful about bubbles, cuz even the felt squeeges will tear or stretch out that 1mil material. It doesn't help that the material is extremely tacky.
I've ordered a less tacky version, so I'll try again tomorrow! May have to chalk up these profits (or lack there off) to experience.
I think I need to go to a window tint shop to do it...isn't that file pretty thin as well! Posted by Doug Allan (Member # 2247) on :
When I did it, I warned the client I had never used it. It is somewhat expensive & I told him I'd install it free as well as provide it at cost, but he had to help install it. I should add that I made him a new sign to replace a "tagged" one, & the new one got tagged within a week, so I got a good price for a re-paint. So on the "free" installation the client was there with me on the challenge to not get wrinkles, so he was happy when we just got a few little ones on the very end of the second panel. We also had a mishap with some of the material before it went down, so we added another seam to toss that stuff. In the end we had just enough extra to complete the job.
Posted by roger bailey (Member # 556) on :
Yes Vipul, with wet application, you must "flood" the area.
Any place there is a void of liquid will trap air in the form of bubbles.
Roger Posted by Glenn Taylor (Member # 162) on :
One application tool everyone should have is a Sabel Palm Roller.
I have two 4x8's to cover today. Using a combination of Rob Iver's application techniques, Roger's Rapid Tac-2, and the palm roller, applying the tedlar is a snap.
The roller won't scratch or tear the surface. the surface
Posted by Jon Aston (Member # 1725) on :
Glenn, my friend, you are a wealth of information...
A quick google of "sable block roller" only turned up distributors. Do you have any contact information for the manufacturer?
Thanks in advance!
Posted by Glenn Taylor (Member # 162) on :
I sure don't, Jon.
My Advantage Sign Supply rep came in one day and used one during a demonstration. I tried it and was hooked. They're not cheap. But, I've spent more on replacing lost squeegees than I've spent on two Sabels.
Posted by Vipul Chitania (Member # 3113) on :
Thanks for all the info...I'll be back in a couple hours with the results!
Posted by Checkers (Member # 63) on :
I gotta love my Sabel roller too. I got mine from Signwarehouse. You may want to check out sabelusa.com too. However, for a job like this, I'll use my 63" laminator and do it dry Havin' fun, Checkers
Posted by Doug Allan (Member # 2247) on :
Is transfer tape an option? Although I didn't try it, I wondered in advance if it might help. I wondered even more after applying it without.
Good to know the RT2 helps. I think my distributor told me to apply dry, but next time...
Posted by Vipul Chitania (Member # 3113) on :
Okay...so here's the results...
1)Smaller pieces 2)"Flood" it with Rapid Tac 2 3)Use a roller instead of a squeege. We only had a 4" on, but I think a larger one would of worked better. 4)We taped it half way and applied from the middle out.
Problems: slight bubble issue over the letters and the substrate...besides that, it worked pretty nicely. Just have patience and work slow.
UGH...can't wait to do the 4'x8' Omega!
Posted by Barb Schilling (Member # 13) on :
I always use transfer tape to apply Tedlar.
Posted by Ian Wilson (Member # 177) on :
Avery has their own clear much much easier to use than Tedlar hate Tedlar
Posted by Roy Somers (Member # 403) on :
If you have to do it wet, use RT1 not RT2. RT2 is for over glass and in the cold. It activates the adhesive and makes it stick faster. RT1 lets you slide it around. Roger???????? your slipping Posted by roger bailey (Member # 556) on :
Yes, you got me Roy !
I should have asked where Vipul was , just thought it was cold everywhere now, especially since I'm not in Hawaii any longer.
OOOOPPS ! Posted by Glenn Taylor (Member # 162) on :
Actually, that is the reason why I recommend using RT2, because it makes the vinyl stick faster.
Tedlar doesn't breathe like regular vinyl. When I first used RT1 when applying Tedlar, I couldn't get the Tedlar to stick well enough. It kept popping up. I've had to let it sit for a few hours and work it down with a heatgun to try and evaporate the RT1 from underneath. It slowed the process down too much for me.
That is why I recommend the combination of RT2 and Rob Ivers application techniques.
Posted by Roy Somers (Member # 403) on :
To Quote Glenn:
"Actually, that is the reason why I recommend using RT2, because it makes the vinyl stick faster.
Tedlar doesn't breathe like regular vinyl. When I first used RT1 when applying Tedlar, I couldn't get the Tedlar to stick well enough. It kept popping up. I've had to let it sit for a few hours and work it down with a heatgun to try and evaporate the RT1 from underneath. It slowed the process down too much for me.
That is why I recommend the combination of RT2 and Rob Ivers application techniques."
OOOOOHHHHHH. Never Mind!
Never thought of it that way, but it makes a lot of sense. I have never used tedlar wet, only vinyl, so listen to Glenn not me.
P.S. Sorry Roger
[ March 19, 2003, 07:13 PM: Message edited by: Roy Somers ]
Posted by roger bailey (Member # 556) on :
Its ok Roy, seems theres always a learning curve when Glen speaks ! Hes good like that. Roger
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Sheesh..if I can apply 10' long SignGold lettering to a sailboat, in the water, on a windy day...applying a tedlar laminate can't be THAT bad can it??? LOL LOL LOL:)![[Confused]](confused.gif)
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