Just wanted to get some opinions on screen printing equipment. I want the equipment to be capable of doing coloplast (18X24) signs besides shirts, bags, and other flat surfaces. Hats would also be a plus. I want it to be able to handle either 4 or 6 colors at a time and it would be nice to be able to print on black shirt. What brand of equipment is best to suit my needs? Do I need a flash unit? Space is also an issue because I do not have much of it. I appreciate all of your opinions. Posted by Rick Chavez (Member # 2146) on :
You have to get the books:
HOW TO PRINT T-SHIRTS FOR FUN & PROFIT This just-updated edition of the "bible" of the garment printing industry covers everything from printing T-shirts and heat transfers to nylon jackets, baseball caps and more. More than 250 photos -- more than 50 in full color -- and 50 charts and diagrams illustrate the text. How to Print T-Shirts for Fun & Profit tells you how to set up your own shop, where to find customers, and how to run the business. It offers the latest in artwork preparation and computer graphics, preparing screens, all about inks and printing techniques.
I own a Workhorse printer and I love it. I can print hats, shirts, etc... I also have built a special pallet for corro and vinyl sticker and such. Workhorse has really affordable startup special if you want to buy it. www.WorkhorseProducts.com Posted by E. Balch (Member # 3545) on :
Try Roger Jennings for screen printing info and equipment. His equipment is top quality and he will spend hours teaching you all about screen printing.
It is a wealth of information about screen printing.
Posted by Randy W. Robarge (Member # 2022) on :
I have to agree with Ernie.
I've spent a few hours up at Roger Jenning's place and he's given me excellent information, tips, and advice.
You can tell he truly enjoys what he does. It makes it a pleasure talking with him.
Randy
Posted by Richard Bustamante (Member # 370) on :
The items you suggested require more that one piece of equipment. You have "flat" stock; Real Estate metal, Coro-plast, sentra, MDO, which need a flat vacuum table and screen hinges. As for the T-shirts, and fabric printing, you'll need a "rotery" press and drier. The common items are; squeeges, elmulsion, screens, exposure unit, wash-out station, and inks.
I don't know what kind of background you have in screen printing, and its hard to answer your question correctly, so I'll give you the basics.
You can start printing "flats" easily, and with a very low start-up cost; probibly under $100. US You'll need about four or five things.
#1 silk screen: Polyester fabric is used now`a days instead of silk. The fabric is streched over a frame; very tight, from 17-23 newtons. Fabric "mesh" varies with the type of printing you are doing. The mesh range from 10XX to 280, and is alot like DPI(dots per inch)in that, finer mesh produces finer resolution. The mesh also regulates the ink flow.
#2 Squeeges: The durometer, or stiffness is deter- mined on the type of mesh, and the resolution of the screen. Usually, fine mesh, and fine resolution require a stiff squeege, and a sharp edge.
#3 Elmulsion: There are many types; direct, indirect, and direct`indirect. "Ulano" has this elmulsion called; "Green-cut" which is a water soluable film that can be ran through you plotter, and weeded, like vinyl, and applied to a wet screen. Very easy!
#4 Screen hinges: Made for flat printing; these metal hinges with clampes hold the screen in place while you are printing.
#5 Inks: There are many types; each for a specific substrait. Vinyl for banners, and most plastics. Enamel inks for MDO, glass and metal. "Plastisol" for t-shirts, and cotton fabrics.
"Thats it for flat printing."
If you have no experience in screenprinting; I would try my hand at flat printing. Learn whats envolved, and make a choice on whether or not you wish to invest in more equipment.
"You must learn to crawl, before you run."
"In the future, you'll find that setting`up takes far longer than the actual printing."
"OH! Another thing. Drying racks: you'll need some of those; unless you want to scatter all those 18X24`s around that shop.
Good Luck.
--Richard Bustamante www.signsinthepines.com Posted by Randy W. Robarge (Member # 2022) on :
Richard,
I have the Ulano Green plotter film, and I've never been able to use it effectively.
I cut, weed, apply, and I get one of two results...
1. When I remove the carrier film after drying, I get some of the film coming off the screen (especially in the detail areas).
OR
2. After applying, I get some of the green film "melting" (for lack of a better word) into the weeded areas.
It seems that there is too much or not enough water.
Do you have any tips on using it?
Thanks. Randy
Posted by Richard Bustamante (Member # 370) on :
>>Randy You are absolutely right! The amount of water is the key to good adhesion. Another key aspect is how quickly it dries.
Using a spritzer bottle on the "mist" setting, spray the mesh till the pores fill with water, stopping before droplets form and run down. Next, lay the film(emulsion side)down on the screen. Squeegee the film down to push the emulsion into the mesh. Touch-up spots of non`adhesion with a damp q-tip.
Immediately afterwards, place the screen(mesh side)in front of a fan set on high. We have a floor furnace, and I set the screen over the grate for one minutes. Dries real fast, and doesn't let the emulsion "run" into the graphic.
--Tips-- Remember, oil & water don't mix. Clean the mesh with MEK or lacquer thinner. Real Gooooood!
Be patient! Don't remove the release backer before its completely dry.
I have to agree with ernie, Jennings equipment is best because it comes with Roger's expertise & help. Textile printing with plastisol ink will need a dryer & flash unit. Printing vinyl inks on coroplast or vinyl decals needs A LOT of ventilation, so if you have a small shop that may be a consideration.
Posted by KEN SCOTT (Member # 2979) on :
Hey, I have found it easier to print coraplast and decals on a flat graphics press and t-shirts and textiles on a rotary t-shirt press....both machines can be seen at http://www.kenscustomtees.com/screenprint.htm t-shirt printer on left.. and flat printer on right. hope this helps Kenneth
Posted by Cpack (Member # 2011) on :
Thanks for all the great information. I only have a small space to work with and I think I will just farm out the coroplast. I don't have the ventilation that it probably needs. I need to have coroplast for political and reality signs. I guess hats and shirts is what I need to stay with for now. Thanks again for the wealth of information. Posted by Myra Grozinger (Member # 327) on :
Richard, I have applied probably hundreds-of yards of the green stuff (the last about 10 minutes ago) and never did it the way you said.
I can't wait til next time, just for a variation on a well worn theme....
(I wipe the screen front and back with cold water, wet but not dripping, lay the green stencil on a build-up of the kind of signage I will be screening, which I moisten first to hold the stencil in place ( emulsion up of course ), lower the screen onto it, immediately blot thoroughly with newsprint, and leave it on the build-up for at least 10 minutes undisturbed) Then up with it and I leave it to dry naturally, or with a mild oscillating heat if I'm in a hurry)
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