i was looking back in the archives about hdu...it's weird in 2001 people were saying you didn't have to prime hdu at all...since i've been involved in the router world(dec 2002)i have not heard that...everyone now seems to be priming....i know after you prime and sand you need to thoroughly wash off your piece b4 painting or there could be blistering problems. i guess i'm a little curious about the resin thing...i've used a 2 part resin(grain fraim)to pour into routed out letters...but some folks are speading it out over the sign?? isn't that really expensive? i paid like $85.00 for the two one quart containers..just was wondering if i'm understanding this right...i'm sure the finish is gorgeous and rock hard. thanks!
Posted by Fran Maholland (Member # 3609) on :
i guess i'm a little curious about the resin thing...i've used a 2 part resin(grain fraim)to pour into routed out letters...but some folks are speading it out over the sign?? isn't that really expensive? i paid like $85.00 for the two one quart containers..just was wondering if i'm understanding this right...i'm sure the finish is gorgeous and rock hard. thanks!
Excellent question...now for some answers!
Posted by Dave Sherby (Member # 698) on :
I've been using the resin for about two years now. Yes it would be very expensive to pour it over an entire sign. It was not meant to be used that way. Although it would provide the strongest most permanent receptor for smalts.
The main intent of Dura Shine Resin is to fill in routed letters and to spread on top of the letters, borders, and graphics of a sandblasted sign.
Even a large sign does not use what I would call an expensive amount of resin considering all the labor it saves me. One coat of resin and a quick spray with Frog Juice 24 hours later and all the detail painting is done.
If you are going to get into it on a regular basis like I am, purchasing the resin in the 2 gallon kit is much cheaper.
