I'd like to hear some newer ideas about creating the "woodgraining" effect on (sandblasted) UF.
I know about grain frames, but was looking for some alternate or other *proven* methods. One *other* method I am familiar with is taking the blast down about 1/4" to 3/8" and then changing the gun's ceramic nozzle to a smaller orafice to cut in deeper, random grain effects. Of course, the lines are not as *tight* nor *regular* as the optimum grain frame effect, but lend good visibility of the desired effect from a distance (from what I've seen).
Another method I've heard about is routing the background (in lieu of sandblasding) and applying FSC-88 while *combing-in* a wood grain effect. Not so sure about this technique...unless someone could elaborate. Any other ideas? What about effectively CNC routing woodgrain reliefs? How might this be accomplished?
I've been working on creating generic wood grain paths in Corel that can be sent to the router table.
Thanks.
Posted by Rookie432 (Member # 1754) on :
Ironically this idea for cnc machining the sandblast look came up in my suppliers forum a few weeks ago. I just attempted a sandblast look yesterday with my machine and it came out fairly well. For my machine I set my router to do a pocket (planing) function with a 1/8" straight cutter then chucked in a 60 degree vee bit. The offset was just enough to get a fine grain frame look. Unfortuantely it is not as irregular as natural wood grain but it does a nice job of giving the feel of sandblast on a more uniform level. I love routing. The possibilities are endless.
Posted by Fran Maholland (Member # 3609) on :
Thanks, Bill, for your comments and I hope more letterheads will reply to this post.
Frankly, I don't like the *tight* grain frame look for, as you may know, *grain frame* generated texture can sometimes be *finny* and frail in UF. A couple of local sign companies here use the two-stage blasting method described above with good *aesthetic* success.
Although a more time consuming method, routing does appeal to me since one can walk away from the machine. Again, it's a *suggestive* texture I'm attempting to achieve, not a realistic one, for larger outdoor signs. If it were interior or something viewed up-close...then that's a different story and I'd probably opt for traditional methods of, say, cedar blasting, etc.
Nice thing about the blast method is that it rounds over the grain groove...mind you that these are looser lines than realistic grain, say, anywhere from 1" to 2" apart, not necessarily *straight* lines either...more random and slightly irregular.
I've created wood line effects for conceptuals and to extrapolate those similar paths to the router (after a basic, background *hog-out*)with avoiding the major graphics or lettering would be nice! There's got to be a better way!
Afterall, why get into all the blasting and asociated costs when a router can do comparable (and acceptible)reliefs. (I've also heard of people hand-pulling(carve)lines into a hogged-out background with some success.
Anyone have any pictures of the such and such methods we're discussing here? A proven and effective step-by-step procedure?
Thanks! Posted by Joe Cieslowski (Member # 2429) on :
I don't blast or route but I saw a technique in Milwaukee that might work. Hot glue was applied to a piece of HDU to form a pattern....then it was blasted, leaving the pattern raised. Maybe this same method can be used to get the desired "grain" effect that you are looking for.
Just an idea........
Joe, Makin Chips and Havin Fun!
Posted by Fran Maholland (Member # 3609) on :
Interesting idea, Joe. Please elaborate more if you can!
Trouble is, as I understand it, one has to get the hot glue down to a background level...meaning... blast or rout first...then blast again.
Anyway, thanks for the input.
BTW..how doth one become a resident letterhead and get their picture up on their posts. I'd like everyone to see me in my tri-corner colonial hat...LOL
Trail-blazing,
Franni
Posted by Amy Brown (Member # 1963) on :
Fran,
To become a resident send an email to Steve and Barb steve@letterhead.com . They are on their trip around the U.S. right now so I'm not sure how they do it. Normally you mail in or pay with credit card the $50US dues every year and send them a picture.
Posted by Joe Cieslowski (Member # 2429) on :
Fran,
Right, blast first....apply glue in a "grain" pattern, blast again...remove glue...paint. This was one of the projects that they had the young kids working on.....it was fun!
This obviously would not be a technique that could be used with a router.
Experiment!!!!
Joe, Makin Chips and Havin Fun!
Posted by Chuck Peterson (Member # 70) on :
I have used Joe's technique but using a tube of silicone to run irregular lines across the panel. Since I don't do my own blasting it must be done before blasting and not at intervals between stages. It worked OK on small samples I did. I've never done it on a finished job.
Posted by Steve Nuttle (Member # 2645) on :
We use a home made "grain frame" and have it strung with 17 gauge fencing wire. Doesn't give such as fine pattern as the store bought frames although I have one of those also. Mine is 8 feet by 3 1/2 feet. Works great!
Posted by Kelly Thorson (Member # 2958) on :
Hi Fran, Here is a picture of my first HDU project. The woodgrain was hand carved after blasting. It's a lot cruder than what you get with the grain frame but it would work well on a larger sign. It was very easy to do and the hand made touch was probably the most enjoyable part of the process. Posted by Fran Maholland (Member # 3609) on :
Thanks Steve and Kelly for your inputs. I will attempt to get a picture of the sandblasted woodgrain I spoke about above and post a link to it here shortly. I think y'all will like it as an acceptible method for such signs. Figure, if you're blasting- why not do a second pass with a smaller nozzle and cut random grain-like lines into it. Still, I'd like to see other's pictures or ideas for graining, especially using the router table. Also, has anyone here ever *combed-in* a grain texture using the likes o FSC-88?
Steve- Ive heard of and like the homemade grain frame idea. Tell me more how you made the frame- steel and wire welded...or with tensioners?
Thanks again.
Posted by Stephen Deveau (Member # 1305) on :
Hi Fran.
Try this trick! Do you own a wood burning kit? Pencil draw you pattern and then use a large chisel tip to melt the pattern in the HDU.
Watch out! The Fumes will get to you so have good ventilation. Not only that it gives you nice control on the pattern but it also melts and seals the material.
Good Luck! Posted by TJ Duvall (Member # 3133) on :
Try using a stiff wire brush. You can customize the pattern by cutting away bristles with a wire cutter to make a coarser pattern. Or leave the bristles to have a "tight" pattern. The pattern will be nice and random.
[ March 12, 2003, 10:49 AM: Message edited by: TJ Duvall ]
Posted by EmpY (Member # 138) on :
One of the guys who posts on the shopbot web site made a couple of Corel videos which shows how he creates woodgrain in Corel.
Just unzip the files and run the .avi videos on your RealPlayer or other avi video player like Windows Media Player.
If you have a Dremel or Rotozip tool, you could try carving the woodgrain freehand with one of those, or mount one on your router table so that you can use the smaller 1/8" shank bits. Collet adapters are also available for some routers, which would let you use 1/8" shank bits.
Another technique that's been talked about is to woodgrain the entire background first using whatever technique you prefer. Then pocket out your lettering on the router table. Now in another material, cut out your letters so that they will nest into the pocketed letters you cut in your background. Glue them in with silicone or your favorite adhesive.
Yes, it's another step but this can give you a raised letter effect which has no gaps between the woodgrain and the lettering, just like in a sandblasted sign.
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