Glass Work Step 2: Glass Glue Chipping ------------------------------------------------ The concept behind glue chipping is; as the glue dries, it contracts, and pulls up chips of glass as it does so. It is dried animal hide mixed with water at a ratio of 1 1/2 parts water and 1 part glue. This formula is for horzontal application.
After mixing, and soaking for awhile, bring the mixture's temperature up slowly to #145 degrees, just before it starts to bubble. Do not over cook it. There are many way to heat it; Electric glue pot, crock pot, water bath, and microwave.
Since the portions of glass I wanted to chip were small, I didn't roll out asphaltum, I brushed it. The asphaltum is used as a chemical barrior. The glue is water soluble, and the ashpaltum is oil base. Water and oil don't mix. So, when your applying the hot glue, it will flow out to, but not past the asphaltum. It is necessary for the glue to "bead`up" with a generous amount, actually "doming" it to 1/8" to 3/16" thick.
The glass must be completely level, as the glue cools, and flows out. It shouldn't take long for the glue to tac up. The glass then has to be heated to around 150 degrees for drying. A "make`shift" tent, with a heated inside should work, if you don't have a drying box. As your glue dries, you'll hear; "tink" when it starts to chip your glass.
After spending a couple of hours in a heated booth, you'll be able to see if it has completely chipped. If not, stick it back under the heat. You'll be able to tell right away, if it's not. Once its done, let cool. Remove the excess with a X-acto, or a chipping tool. Remove all the asphaltum with mineral spirits, and remove the excess glue with soapy water. Clean and pad dry.
The photo below shows the application of chipping glue.
Supplies for glue chipping can be found at: Esoteric Sign Supply 1646 Wilmington California 90744 or phone Rick Glawson at 310-549-6622
--Richard Bustamante www.signsinthepines.com info@signsinthepines.com
Posted by bronzeo (Member # 1408) on :
Richard, Is the Asphaltum in a cuttable sheet, or is it just a trowelable or brushable asphalt? Is a vinyl or rubber resist not recommended for the masking? It would appear that asphalt would be difficult to work with in any form. I can't tell by the photo what it's roll is. Thanks
Posted by Don Coplen (Member # 127) on :
Excellent step by step, Richard!
Jack, asphaltum is roughly the consistency of thick paint. It brushes on just as easily as one shot.
[ February 25, 2003, 12:52 PM: Message edited by: Don Coplen ]
Posted by Richard Bustamante (Member # 370) on :
The Asphaltum is used as a chemical barrior. It is a refined tar that is in liquid form. It dries hard, and can hold the mask while you are blasting.
Under normal circumstances the entire piece of glass is coated with asphaltum. Since I had a small area to do, and I didn't want to go through all the trouble just for a couple of small areas, so I stroked it.
As the glue starts to flow out, it reaches the asphaltum, but will go no further, and starts to bead up, like a drop of water on a counter top. This is important because the glue needs to be put on real thick. When you think you've put enough glue, put some more. Real thick.
The asphaltum can be rolled on just like paint.
--Richard Bustamante www.signsinthepines.com [e-mail]info@signsinthepines.com[/e-mail]
Posted by Stephen Deveau (Member # 1305) on :
Richard
I am watching with....("EYES WIDE OPEN!")
Thank you Sir with this Step by Step.
How thick is the glass Panel 1/4"? Posted by Richard Bustamante (Member # 370) on :
1/4" safety glass because it for the front door to his business.
The photo show the difference between glass etch and glass glue chip. The pattern in the glue chipped portion show an "iceburg" effect. On the lettering portion of the word "WINES" I later came back and mirror gilded it (step 3) with 23kt. glass gold; Giusto Manetti, each "book" contains 25 leaves 3 3/8"X 3 3/8" inches. The "gold nugget" effect adds to the antique look.
----- ear to ear grin ... !
Posted by Roy Somers (Member # 403) on :
Looks great Richard. Thanks for the tour. How do you make that great looking Gold Nugget effect?? More question to follow ;o
Posted by Jeff Ogden (Member # 3184) on :
Richard...
these are great step by steps. thanks for taking the time to do this.
I have one question. The first window glass I ever sandblasted was in a bar door and was blasted deep into tempered glass. Then someone told me I couldn't blast tempered glass without breaking it, and I said OK, I already did. Then the very next piece I did the glass shattered into a zillion pieces, so that made me very shy about tempered glass. Do you have any bad experiences with it breaking? Or do you think its safe to do at your pressures(70#)? I know we were blasting at closer to 100 lbs. when we destroyed that one piece.I have heard other people suggest doing the etching first and then tempering, but that raises issues concerning breakage in transit to get tempered. Posted by Richard Bustamante (Member # 370) on :
Gold Nugget effect- is glue chipped glass that has been mirror gilded.(water gild)
Tempered glass- it is for that reason that I started using safety glass or "lami" I too had the same experience with it breaking into a million pieces. Most glass I use is 1/4" plate.
"How come nobody had any questions for step#1?" I guess design is too subjective.
Richard, I didn't see anything about sandblasting the glass first to give the glue something to bit into. Is this some new glue that dosn't require the hardest part, sandblasting?
Posted by Richard Bustamante (Member # 370) on :
This step by step has many facets and *all* steps must be read. Step #1 has that information. I'm sure that I didn't leave that part out.
"John. Now go back to your desk, and re`read step #1."
Thanks Richard for a great step-by step, filed this one for future reference
I'm just hoping to see more or more commentary.
This's got me interesed enough to start picking up materials, I'll definitely be experimenting and reading more on this subject... (soon as I get a chance)
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