We've got a customer who has used Stabilo pencil marks for guidance in striping vehicles, forever.
Recently, he's been having trouble removing the pencil marks when the job is done.
Anybody running into this problem? Any good tips to share?
Thanks in advance.
Posted by Henry Barker (Member # 174) on :
WE never use red, only white or blue, the only time we have had problems removing, is on a surface where the paint or fibreglass gelcoat has oxidised matted with age. We have just used very light markings on these occasions and cleaned with a car finish restorer,
Posted by captain ken (Member # 742) on :
white and blue only - defintely! also dont use chemicals to remove it, water! if you still have trouble use a little fine rubbing compound.
Posted by Fred Floyd (Member # 2251) on :
Well let's see eversince we started using Stabilos we always used a paper towel with a little good old spit on it. Then again we only used white & yellow. It seems that this has been forever but I don't remember how long it has been. they may have changed the formulation in them lately. That's my 2 cents. Blessings to all. Fred Posted by Tim (Member # 1699) on :
I dont use stabillo brand anymore, cause I found it hard to remove sometimes. I like the omnichrome, Staedtler makes them.
Posted by Arthur Vanson (Member # 2855) on :
I have an old tin of cutting compound which was left unused for so long that the the abrasive paste dropped out and sunk, leaving a liquid medium which is perfect for removing stubborn stabilo marks without harm to the substrate or writing enamel.
Arthur
Posted by old paint (Member # 549) on :
i use a stabelo...# 8008 looks like a regular lead pencil mark..wipes right off!!!
Posted by Roy Frisby (Member # 736) on :
I use pixie dust!!
Posted by Bill Cosharek (Member # 1274) on :
A reader's tip in an early SignCraft said to use toothpaste. I've used it many times & it works. As others have stated, try to use blue or white since they're known to wipe off easy; provided they haven't baked in the sun too long.
Posted by Kathy Joiner (Member # 1814) on :
I have used Soft Scrub and it works well. I'll bet the toothpaste works great, gotta try that.
Posted by Mark Neurohr (Member # 2470) on :
After the initial wipe with water (or spit) and a mark is still there, I just grab a pencil eraser and rub lightly.
Posted by bronzeo (Member # 1408) on :
Unless you need an enormous amount of reference points, try using little tabs of vinyl with the end folded face to face for a lift tab. They will leave no marks and are more accurate than pencil marks for thing like aligning pinstripes. Just bring the stripe up to the bottom edge of the tabs, attach and pull tabs. Reuse several times.
Posted by Jon Aston (Member # 1725) on :
YOU GUYS ARE GREAT!!!
Thanks for your help!
Posted by Robert Carney (Member # 2016) on :
One shop i worked at they refused to use stabilos - apparently they found them to be aggresive when laying out.(marking the substrate)?
They use sign pens instead
Posted by FranCisco Vargas (Member # 145) on :
Fantasic, 409, also denatured alcohol works good.
Posted by Mark Yearwood (Member # 2723) on :
A wet paper towel rubbed on a bar of Lava handsoap works great for stubborn stabilo marks. I has just enough abrasive to scrub them off. Works on cleaning other stuff off of signs, too. Mark lightly and you won't have as much trouble.
Posted by George Perkins (Member # 156) on :
Hand cleaner works good too. Why they stain sometimes and not other times has always remained a mystery to me. I switched to omnichrome about a year ago but they can be stubborn at times too, not as often as stabillo's though.
Posted by Alan Ackerson (Member # 3224) on :
I've found using my sweaty little fingers works best for stabilo marks on smoother substrates, not so much on pourus(sp?) stuff
Then a quick spray of windex to remove the fingerprints. Posted by Jim & Chris hetzler (Member # 1709) on :
If good ole spit doesn't work then use Rapid Tac prep solution works when nothing else does.
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