I'll be doing some mixing and matching on various firetruck doors in re: to lettering because some of the wording has changed in this particular district.
Some trucks are all vinyl, others painted shadow with vinyl lettering, others all paint. It's going to be a real mishmash to copy, but that's my job.
I've searched the bb in vain on paint removal from vehicles and nothing came up via search, so I'd like to reask if that's ok.
What products would you recommend trying? Any tips you can add? I'll be letting them know I won't be liable for any possible damage to the paint to start, as paint removal is NOT my specialty, but they'd still like me to try.
I look forward to your input. Thanks!
Posted by Mark Fair Signs (Member # 289) on :
great subject donna. you are very wise to let them know that you will not be liable for any damage.
this sounds like a job for a paint/body shop.
i refer such jobs to a local auto body shop or at least recommend one with a good reputation. if they want me to handle the removal, then i would sub it out to a contractor and mark the price up for removal.
my hourly rate applies.
afterwards i would make copy changes.
mark
[ November 15, 2002, 11:10 PM: Message edited by: Mark Fair Signs ]
Posted by David Fisher (Member # 107) on :
I've used oven cleaner on vehicles in the past to remove painted lettering Donna, provided the bodywork is painted in 2 pack. Generally Mr Muscle because thats what my wife seems to prefer, ergo thats what is in the cupboard. HTH, David
Posted by Joey Madden (Member # 1192) on :
Removal of painted lettering on firetrucks is best left up to professionals, like body shops.
Posted by old paint (Member # 549) on :
wait till you try to touch up a spot you may have taken off a little to much paint.....finding a red to match...is not a fun job. even with oven cleaner, the paint under the lettering...might be regular enamel just like the one shot...and the oven cleaner will take it off too.
[ November 16, 2002, 02:23 AM: Message edited by: old paint ]
Posted by Jeff Ogden (Member # 3184) on :
Donna.... Easy-Off brand oven cleaner is what I would use,after taping off a neat rectangle around the area with newspaper or butcher paper, to keep runs from streaking the door. Use sparingly after first tying a small area. When you spray it it bubbles up, then leave it on door for about 15 minutes or until paint looks loose. It may take 2 applications. Most all paint fades over time and you will probably find a shadow under letter where the paint around it has faded. Sometimes this can be buffed out with fine compound.Be sure that the compound contains no silicones, such as the ones that say buff and shine or similar words. I have found that sometimes the new copy will take your eye away from any shadows you might have.
Another alternative might be to paint a shape, such as a shield to cover the area where the old lettering was, or if your doing the new job in vinyl, the whole job could basically be done in the shop on the new shape and then the old lettering removed and the new vinyl applied applied all in one trip.
You will find that most fire trucks built after about 1980 are painted with polyurethanes, and the earlier models with acrylic enamel, so you should be OK with the oven cleaner. Just be careful. I'd worry more about the buffing part if you get into that. You may want to consult a body shop to see if they can help you there.
The key thing to realize here is to always proceed with caution anytime your redoing older stuff. Just try a little spot first, and you'll be able to tell if it's going to be OK or no
Hope this helps....
[ November 16, 2002, 03:04 AM: Message edited by: Jeff Ogden ]
Posted by Tony Vickio (Member # 2265) on :
Donna, 28 years in the business has taught me many things! One of them, concerning taking lettering of of vehicles is, LET SOMEBODY ELSE DO IT!!. There is so much trouble you can get into. I tell customers to find a body shop, remove the lettering, repaint if necessary and then bring it to me. Up front attitude has never failed.
You could tell them........"I put it on.........I don't take it off"
Posted by Rick Sacks (Member # 379) on :
Donna,I'd do it as Jeff mentioned with only a couple changes. Rather than newspaper, I use saran wrap and feel much better insured that way. I'd also use a plastic razor blade to remove the paint after the EasyOff did it's job. I think you'll find the black shade will come off rather easily, providing that no catalyst was used in the paint. Some colors come off easier than others. Body shops know how to take everything off the door, and I think most would be more challenged than you to tackle this project. Step up to it.....one truck at a time.
Posted by brian-the-brush (Member # 2258) on :
Hi Donna,I have to agree with Tony on this one,over the years I have tried many ways of removing existing signwriting from vehicles and my advice is LEAVE WELL ALONE, let somebody else do the removal and you concentrate on the new lettering.
Posted by Mike Pipes (Member # 1573) on :
Donna I also agree you ought to leave the removal up to a body shop.
They do it everyday and know how to do it quickly, properly and best of all they can easily repair it if they do end up messing it up. Plus they have the polishing and buffing equipment and experience needed to remove or blend the ghosting left behind by fading.
That being said, just yesterday I removed the paint from a practice panel I have. It was my first attempt at pinstriping/outlining, made up of waterbased acrylics, one shot lettering enamel, and lacquer rattle can clearcoat.
I simply laid a towel on the face of the panel and wet the towel with lacquer thinner then let it soak a couple minutes. All the paint on the panel popped loose and stuck to the towel when I removed it, but the basecoat on the panel itsself (I'm guessing it was powdercoated) was untouched.
Posted by Mike Clayton Graphics (Member # 723) on :
I agree with the above posts, let a professional body shop remove it.
And, to all the oven cleaner users, I have used it too, but did you ever use it on red? If you don't like purple blotches, don't do it. I learned the hard way ;-)
MC
Posted by Donna in BC (Member # 130) on :
ACK! Purple blotches? That would be baaaad. I think that last post just convinced me to let someone else do it.
I actually suggested they may need a professional detailer. The body shop I use to rent from didn't know how to remove painted lettering, just all the paint off the metal, like Rick said.
Thanks so much for your suggestions. I'm still curious to at least 'try' one though...
Posted by Myra Grozinger (Member # 327) on :
Donna - nothing new to add except that I have been there and done that, and after the last one (sides of a box truck) I swore to never touch the Easy Off again. There is a specific body shop nearby that I recommend, it helps people sometimes to be led....
A word of caution for the "one" you seem to want to do: Wear long gloves and long sleeves (the little droplets on the skin give me a bad rash), do use Saran Wrap (cover liberally around the area and tape the edges down), don't use a brand other than Easy Off (I have found it really matters), don't do it on a windy day. After you disavow responsibility for the result to the customer, and emphasize the amount of hassle you might save him/her by trying, you might get lucky and find it is all coming "off easy", have another experience under your belt, and have the opportunity to charge him for your kindness.
Posted by Bob Rochon (Member # 30) on :
Donna,
Usually I would agree with those who say let someone else do it. BUT. as mentioned most body shops dont have the knowledge to remove lettering enamel either.
You have all the correct info above as stated from Jeff & Rick. Myra makes great points on the safety to yourself.
I will emphasise to tape off all the areas not to be removed, adhere to the 15 minute rule, that way you wont remove any more than you have to. Don't rush it be careful. If it doesn't all ocme off after 15 minutes, reapply. There is no need to be afraid of this. I usually have my detail guy buff it afterwords and I have to this day only run into 2 problems.
One was red oneshot never came out of the green in my truck, and easy off doesn't like fiberglass much ( ouch )!
trudge forward and put one more success under your belt.
Let us know your outcome!
Posted by timi NC (Member # 576) on :
If you must do this job yourself Donna do some research first,....depending on the brand of firetruck it more than likely has a ureathane finish which will withstand most harsh thinners.Check with the manufacturer and or the chief of the fire dept that owns it and they more than likely can tell you who built and or sold the truck and who lettered it with what.
If there is no gold to remove as you mentioned just vinyl and a painted shadow,...try removing the vinyl first,..then try lacquer thinner on a rag on an inconspicuous place to see if it attacks the paint. Most of the new ureathane finishes will not break down with normal grades of lacquer thinners and you should see no color on your rag. If this is the case Try wetting the rag and wipeing only the shadows and painted area, with the tip of your finger. The object here it to break down just the lettered shadow. As you wipe check your rag to make sure the only color on it is the color you want to remove.Be careful to use a clean soft rag and try to avoid scratching and dulling the area around the lettering you want to remove. At times I have used a small amount of polishing compound along with the thinner to the tip of the rag to abraid the lettering.Be sure you use polishing compound and not just rubbing compound as the latter may have an adverse effect dulling the finish.I prefer the tin tubs of dupont paste. Take your time and good luck,...this can be time consuming and risky,... best left to the automotive finishing pro's.
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