I am so mad at myself. I am doing coroplast signs and I am having a hard time. I am pretty new at this stuf so I have been putting these signs together(vinyl on coroplast) wet but I was getting bubbles. So I decided I didn't need to do them wet any more but I am still getting bubbles. I push down on that darn vinyl with the transfre tape on it till I feel like I am going to tear the transfer paper off. What am I doing wrong? I don't have trouble on wood, car or anything else. Yes, I do clean the board before I put the vinyl on it. HELP!! I am ready to start screen printing all these signs and that is not practical. Posted by Michael Boone (Member # 308) on :
Hi Cynthia Try to make your squeegee strokes go with the grooves instead of across them. over lap your strokes. I get small bubbles sometimes....but on coroplast..the bottom liine is usually a cheap sign...So I really dont worry too much.
Posted by Robert Thomas (Member # 1356) on :
Are you using HP? The cheaper 3 & 5 year vinyls go on real good, less agressive adhesives?
Posted by Kenneth Sandlin (Member # 3014) on :
What type of application fluid were you using? As a beginner app fluid is often good to get the technique refined to minimize bubbles. Either Rapid Tac or a solution of about 90 parts water, 7 parts dish soap (the kind without any additives like fragrances or softeners) and 3 parts isopropyl alcohol work best.
And I'm sure there'll be some good advice here from the community experts.
Good luck!
Posted by VICTORGEORGIOU (Member # 474) on :
You might also check for contaminant on the fluted plastic. Before applying vinyl, wipe down with rubbing alcohol and a cheap paper towel.
Posted by Dave Draper (Member # 102) on :
and....
If its hot in the shop, you'll have bubble troble.
Coroplast signs are purposely engineered to give sign people bubble trouble, so don't feel bad.
You do know that the bubbles will go away in a few days as the vinyl expands and shrinks until all the gule makes contact with the surface and forces the air out. Except for those huge bubbles! A few pin pricks and a good line to tell the customer he is getting what he is paying for and also there is no extra charge for the bubbly look! It is the "IN" look right now!
If you can sell that line, then you can probably sell snow to an Eskimo! hahahahahah!
Posted by Cpack (Member # 2011) on :
Thanks everyone for you input. I realize the bubbles will go away but when the customer sees the sign 2 hours after you finish it, well you know what I'm talking about. I thought I was doing something wrong. Thanks again.
Posted by Brian Snyder (Member # 41) on :
Use a felt squeegee. Its firm enough to apply good pressure and soft enough to conform to the surface irregularity. Posted by Mark Neurohr (Member # 2470) on :
Make sure the squeegee you're using is flat. You can sharpen it by rubbing it across another squeegee. If squeegee is ruff, you'll have air bubbles every time.
Posted by bronzeo (Member # 1408) on :
I have been having less and less problems by applying less pressure on the squeegy. I first pressed very hard and trapped many air pockets. Also go slower to allow the air to evacuate. If you apply less, but just the right amount of pressure, the bubbles tend to chase out without trapping so badly. Another thing you can do is apply wet to both the substrate and the adhesive side of the vinyl, allowing for better wet chase out. Many times, when I do larger pieces, I will not use transfer tape, but just wet the adhesive, and substrate, peel the vinyl from the backing and float on the spot where it will reside flat. With enough solution, you can move it around for quick placement and then squeegy out from one end or center. Practice on a piece and see. This works very well on plexiglas or slick aluminum. I use this method always, when laying a solid vinyl background. Also practice the pressure thing, and note the results. I about went nuts trying to learn the correct proceedures. Also I note that each type of vinyl requires different pressures.
Posted by Jon Aston (Member # 1725) on :
Wow!
As usual, plenty of great tips from the Letterville gang.
Where it makes sense (maybe not in this particular case) try using graphics printed on one of 3M's products that uses the new "Comply Performance Technology" -- products such as Gerber/3M's 250C (for printing on Gerber EDGEs) or a number of 3M's products for ARIZONA (and other) durable inkjets. Really amazing stuff.
Any Canadian 'heads who plan on visiting our X-TREME exhibit at ConSAC (Sign Assoc of Canada's annual tradeshow) ConSAC (Sign Assoc of Canada's annual tradeshow) will have a chance to try Comply out for themselves...
![[Confused]](confused.gif)
![[Smile]](smile.gif)
A few pin pricks and a good line to tell the customer he is getting what he is paying for and also there is no extra charge for the bubbly look! ![[Cool]](cool.gif)
