What brand of application tape do you use when applying sandblast resist? I have tried clear (various types), paper (various types).
Last resist I bought was the Anchor 130 Low Tack to use on prepainted surfaces. I cannot get that stuff to stick without the application tape pulling it right up. Even with the lowest tack app. tape I could find at my supplier.
Is it the app. tape or the resist? I think I'm switching back to Hartco. Just seems to work better for me. The thing I am not sure about is how much sticky residue the Hartco will leave.
Thanks for letting me rant!
Posted by jimmy chatham (Member # 525) on :
If you weed it before you apply it you can blast right through the application tape
Posted by Wayne Webb (Member # 1124) on :
Amy,
What kind of paint are you putting the stencil over? Are you using a satin paint? If you are that could be the problem. I use Anchor #153 LOW TACK stencil and Transfer-rite HIGH TACK application tape and it works fine over GLOSS or HIGH GLOSS paints, either OneShot or acryic latex. I don't have ANY problems with the stencil coming up at all. I also apply TWO layers(except for really small signs) of application tape to the stencil to eliminate any chance of distortion.
Posted by J & N Signs (Member # 901) on :
I like your plan Jimmy...had the worst time on the last sign..will try next time....
Posted by John Smith (Member # 1308) on :
TransferRite lift-off tape... high tack for our humid conditions. But, lately, I too have been having problems with the 130. But, it is so far better than the 117 for HDU that I will learn to live with it and do whatever is necessary to make it work for me.
[ September 06, 2002, 03:27 PM: Message edited by: John Smith ]
Posted by Arvil Shep' Shepherd (Member # 2030) on :
I first cut the resist 2 times, and clean with alcohol, then apply clear packaging tape, then tape in position and remove the backing and roll with a rubber Brayer....Then I remove tape and weed and re roll with the Brayer... I have used this method for several years with good success. When I use the resist over raw HDU I spray a coat of 3M Adhesive to the back of the resist after I remove the backing and before I apply it to the raw HDU Shep'
Posted by Rick Sacks (Member # 379) on :
We use the Anchor #155 high tack with regular duty paper application tape. If I'm blasting at a pressure over 125 pounds, I need to hold the nozzle back close to three feet from the wood, but with lower pressures I can get right in there. My Graphtec plotter cuts this stuff well, but I seldom cut stuff longer than ten feet long in one pass.
Posted by Tom Bahr (Member # 2925) on :
Rick, Do you have a problem with the adhesive goop sticking to the sign after you blast. That stuff caused me too much labor. I use the medium tack 435 by Hartco.
Posted by captain ken (Member # 742) on :
I use the blue Anchor (# escapes me) and regular transfer tape, no problems on enamels
Posted by goddinfla (Member # 1502) on :
I've been using Anchor 125 for almost 20 years now. Mostly hand cut, but recently cutting VERY CAREFULLY on my Roland 950. On sf2 I would spray a "watered down" blockout coat on the foam before applying the rubber to bind the dust to the foam. I've been using the sf3 for a month or so and skipping the blockout. So far no problem. To apply the computer cut rubber I just use regular high tack app tape. I usually dust the foam with some Elmer's spray glue before applying. I also make sure to wipe all of the silicone dust off of the rubber before cutting on the plotter and before applying the transfer tape.
