Hello- anyone have any suggestions about how to accurtely transfer a pattern onto corrugated metal to be painted? -Thanks,Shon
Posted by Rick Chavez (Member # 2146) on :
I have used light tack spray mount on the pattern and applied it to the metal to tranfer the graphics, works for me. Rick
Posted by old paint (Member # 549) on :
thats a tough one...1st you stick with simple block letters,make pattern with large holes, do not try to form pattern to all dips and bumps, but hang it like you would on a flat surface. get it as tight as you can on the high spots now get a can of spray paint, and follow the pounce lines...paint will go thru holes and hit the metal with enough of the paint so you can fill inside of it. you will only get one use of the pattern...
Posted by Rick Sacks (Member # 379) on :
You need to order the special corrugated pattern paper. They make it for both horizontal and vertical patterns. You must measure the number of folds per foot on the wall and then adjust the paper to correspond. Then just project the layout onto the paper, stretch the paper out, perforate, and it bends back to shape easily because of the memory in the paper.
Posted by Arvil Shep' Shepherd (Member # 2030) on :
Rick Have you been breathing a little heavy on the Redwood Dust ?????????? ha ha ha ha ha ..sounds like you have been taking lessons from Mark Fair !!!!!!!! Shep'
Posted by Roy Frisby (Member # 736) on :
Rick, that must be very similar to the paper I use here in Arkansas except that to adjust the depth to fit the corrugations you whistle at a certain pitch. You keep whistling until it's just right or until you fall off the ladder from being light headed.....
Posted by Tony Vickio (Member # 2265) on :
You wanna see corrugated!!!!! This is a little different than your application, but I think this is the "mother" of all corrugations! This is the Guard Rail at the Start/Finish line at Watkins Glen International. Some"nut" wanted the rail painted! 51 feet long and how do we do it??? Steve Hughey came up with a projection idea. Larry Orr, of Orr Signs and I went to the track at 11:00 at night, set up the projector on the race track surface, and proceded to draw the image on the rail. The next day we suckered Steve into lettering it! His whole body now has Carpel Tunnel! As far as your project, if you can't project it, I would try a pounce attern and then go back and draw the high parts to look pleasing. Once you move left or right of the sign, it will go "crazy" anyway! Posted by jerry jaran (Member # 524) on :
Hi, I hope you get this before you made a pattern. I'll assume you are computerized. Print an acetate of the layout real small( about 3in.wide so it fits right in the middle of the overhead projector lens. Take your generator out there if there's no power nearby and trace the layout onto the metal. It can be just before dusk too. I did a corrogated wall 12x36 ft. at about 75ft. the arc was only 2in. in the middle and could'nt be noticed after I finished painting the next day. I use this on all wall work now and even for 4x8's of course when I don't use vinyl. I did a store front Bar ( Our Place ) but this time I made the drawing about 5in across the portrait side because I was set up in the parking spot on the street. the layout was 18in.by 20ft. Slick! The first layout above had the main name-Coolidge Grain at 3ft. letters with 6 or 8 other products listed at about 12in. I projected the whole layout at once of course.
[ August 17, 2002, 01:37 PM: Message edited by: jerry jaran ]
Posted by Richard Bustamante (Member # 370) on :
You didn't mention what type of corrgation it is.
While on tour with the infamous "Traveling Millennium Sign Artist": Francisco Vargas; we came up with a way to put up patterns. This is the type that has a 12" valley, and a 1.5" raised rib.
Take the pattern and start from the center. Next tape on to the raised bibs only, leaving enough slack so that the pattern can easily rest inside the recessed valley. After the pattern has tape on the first rib; both top and bottom, check to see if you have it lined up horizontally. (Level) Move to the next rib, and repeat the process.
Depending on the amount of ribs you have to go over is the amount of distortion it will have. I think we calculated at 1" per rib. This distortion will only effect the length of the sign, and not the lettering. Slight distortion will occur on rounded letters, and some clean`up will be needed.
Tips>>>
Try to leave the same amout of slack between each rib.
It is not criticle to leave the exact amount of pattern to fill the whole valley.
Be careful not to rip the pattern during pouncing.(this is very easy to do.)
It was a hard job made simple.
This sign is 6'X24', painted with One`Shot. Location: San Meteo, California. (Near San Franccisco) Two sign guys about six hours.
Posted by Jon Butterworth (Member # 227) on :
I use a 10x zoom Overhead projector on all my corrugated jobs and mark out at night with charcoal sticks. If pwer is not available on site I use a portable generator. If projection is not possible I use a scale drawing and mark out by hand. Check out my previous post .... "Do you still paint signs?" June 20th 2001. I used projection method for the Mac Tractor only ... the trailer and lettering were all scaled on by hand.
Posted by Rick Sacks (Member # 379) on :
You can make a long pounce bag for the corrugated wall. With an old sock or two you can have bigger wads of cotton every five inches (or whatever the spacing for your corrugation) and spray glue this to a 16" scrap of 2x4. Saturate the cotton with powdered charcoal and make big passes. Unfortunatly, this is a one directional pounce bag, but it will pull that corrugated pattern paper into the valleys perfectly!
Posted by shon lenzo (Member # 1364) on :
Hey- Thanks you guys!! I found out another way to do this- the job is 10 feet in the air, then goes up 8 feet, 12 feet long. In this case the corrugations are vertical. I lengthened the pattern by 13.5%, and folded it into the corrugation. This was taped at each straight line. I would have used the opaque, but it would have to be out in the street,15 feet up in the air- and the street is also running downhill. This is the old ace hardware logo with wings and a space shuttle/airplane. I am doing this and two other signs for $3K. -by the first. Thanks, -Shon the tired guy
Posted by Bob Stephens (Member # 858) on :
I'm surprised no one else has suggested this but I've been using ARMCO's new corrugated vinyl. Just smash it on any ole way, wrinkles and all, then take a hair dryer to it and it shrinks right into all the nooks and crannies.
