i'm doing my first carved HDU sign. somebody suggested i make it from 1/2" SignFoam (10 pound) and glue it onto a piece of plywood for strength. the finished sign will be 2' x 8' x 1".
i'll be attaching this (somehow) to a wood frame wall. what kind of bolts should i use? i haven't done much installation, so i need a solution that is simple and straightforward. i can't get to the back of the wall.
the sign could be flat against the wall, or i can be firred out (if that helps).
Posted by John Smith (Member # 1308) on :
If it is not too late, I would strongly suggest 3/4" or 1" 15 or 18# HDU. Personally, I think the 1/2" is way too flimsy for your size and the 10# is recommended for flower arrangements. I usually run several large body STAINLESS STEEL screws all over the sign face hidden within the letters. The screws leave a smaller footprint vs galvanized lags with washers. Extra precautions would be to run some silicone adhesive behind it also. Question, the HDU will far outlast the MDO. Make really sure you seal all exposed edges the best you can with whatever method you currently use or use the AlumaCore or DiBond that a lot of folks here use. Show us some pics when you get it all done !!! Posted by Steve Purcell (Member # 1140) on :
I agree with John. Go thicker and denser on the SignFoam. At 1/2" you'll be close to carving clear through it if you're not careful.
I'd use six fasteners. Countersink for #10 S/S deck screws. Paint some enamel receptive vinyl with the coat out color and cut some 1" circles to cover the screw heads.
Posted by ScooterX (Member # 2023) on :
well, NEXT time i'll get the 15" and the 3/4" material... i'm stuck this time.(long story)
do the #10 stainless steel deck screws go into the plywood or into the foam? (the foam will be glued down to the plywood with epoxy). in other words, how far down should i drill the countersink hole?
Posted by Steve Purcell (Member # 1140) on :
Given that it's 10lb., I'd go down to the plywood.
Posted by Rick Chavez (Member # 2146) on :
I don't like poking holes in a carved dimension sign, I would attach 1"x2"strips to the wall with s/s deck screws, attach angles to the sign back to match the postion of the strips, and screw in from the top and bottom, and there you go. Plus I think looks good floating of the wall a little. Rick
Posted by ScooterX (Member # 2023) on :
i think i like that last idea -- sounds like it will be easier to make sure i get the 1x2 up and level and then "hang" the angle over them. since i'll probably be on my own, that seems like an easier install.
Posted by Mike Languein (Member # 319) on :
I once had an installation to do here in Temple City. It was going up on a busy corner at a child care center so I had to clear it with the city. The sign was 3/4" MDO, 2' x 3' mounted to a low cinder block wall, about 3 feet high, next to the sidewalk. Knowing how cities are I decided on overkill and suggested 6 #12 screws 2" long, in plastic anchors. The individual cinder block wall is 1" thick.
I didn't understand overkill the way the city does, though, because they made me use 12 #14 screws 4" long. And that's why there are snappers everywhere!
Posted by Rick Chavez (Member # 2146) on :
Why would the city care how you attach it, it's under 6', and don't usually inspect anything that small, some cities are a little wierd that way, try doing signs in Irvine Rick
Posted by Cam Bortz (Member # 55) on :
Mike, who gives a crap what those City Hall mouth-breathers require. Are they going to come out and inspect it? And miracle of miracles they do, are they gonna pull a screw to see if it's four inches long? These people don't live in the real world. Treat them like you would any half-wit you don't to give you trouble - tell them whatever brain-dead nonsense they want to hear, then go do it right.
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