How do I slow down the dry time of HoK pinstripe paint? It seems to tack up too quick, or I seem to move too slow!
Posted by timi NC (Member # 576) on :
Ben try their slow reducer,...it is a slower evaporating thinner thus slower tack time.
Posted by Joey Madden (Member # 1192) on :
Timi, HoK has only 1 reducer for their striping and lettering paints.
Ben, try using 1170 PPG reactive reducer.
I hope you are not mixing the reducer in with the HoK. For more problem saving ideas when using HoK, try logging on to my website.
Posted by Santo (Member # 411) on :
Joey, I often wondered why you recommended the 1170 reducer over HOK reducer or the 870 that most of the local painter(spray guys) most often use. I've tried both the HOK and 870, but not the 1170.
Posted by timi NC (Member # 576) on :
Joey If you would explain the info on this link then,and why hok would list a slow, medium, and fast reducer? http://www.houseofkolor.com/hok/productset.html Posted by George Perkins (Member # 156) on :
Timi, those three reducers are for their other products, like you would use in painting a car, they only have one reducer for the striping urethane.
I prethin HOK and have no problems whatsoever, however, I work with a heavy load on the brush as opposed to a heavily pallated brush. HOK DOES work much differently than One Shot, it does take a little time to get used to, but I don't find it gums up in the brush any faster than One Shot...if you keep it wet! You say it's tacking up fast, I'm assuming you mean the brush is getting to where it doesn't want to work. When it gets like that rinse it out. You may want to use the thin as you go method like Joey reccomends. Most times I find HOK works just fine for me straight out of the can with only the catalyst added. It's a very heavy bodied paint and feels like it won't work but it does, it just takes getting used to.
[ July 08, 2002, 10:07 AM: Message edited by: George Perkins ]
Posted by Joey Madden (Member # 1192) on :
Since its introduction and even its re-formulation, the HoK striping and lettering paints have always been my thing as I moved over from Paul Muirs Dagger-Lac. Even Jon hadn't a clue as to how much catalyst should be added or what kind of reducer to use. My site on HoK was written over 6 years ago and I've found that the PPG reactive reducers work best in all applications for some strange reason. The reactive reducer comes in several numbers according to the temperture and many have taken my advice without a hitch. Use what you want as long as you don't add the reducers to the paint itself, this way you can't overthin it from the get-go and the paint will flow according to your pace. Overthinning the HoK will result in a transparent effect. Adding the catalyst is another point which can help or hinder its performance.
Posted by Ben Sherr (Member # 2874) on :
OK, I guess I said it wrong, but you guys got to it anyway - it's not that it drys too fast after I put it on, its that it doesn't flow right off the brush. I have tried it thinned in the cup, thinned on the palette, and straight out of the can. I am going to go get the reducer Joey recommended and give that a try. I guess it doesn't help that it has been hotter than hell around here this past week. On another note; after all the questions, all the materials I bought, all the hassle of setting up my shop, I FINALLY PAINTED SOMETHING!!!!!!! Airbrushed an eagle hood mural, and an Earnhardt tribute on the back bumper, on a dark blue '85 Firebird this past weekend. I didn't charge enough, ran into problems with the customer changing designs at the last minute, and ran into more problems with the clear coat, but damn, it feels good just to paint again!!!!!!
Posted by Si Allen (Member # 420) on :
Ben...remember this...when a customer makes a last minute change....simply say : "No problem, BUT there WILL be an additional cost!" Then smile! He then has the choice of making a change and paying more, or sticking with the original design!!!
Werks fer me!
[ July 08, 2002, 07:30 PM: Message edited by: Si Allen ]
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