i'm doing a pair of acyillic signs, one with the summer hours and one with the winter hours for a business.
i've never cut acyilic before -- is it like glass? just score with a platic cutter and snap over the table edge? what about the edges? do they get sanded, or flame polished, or what? (it will be 1/8" clear acyrilic). i don't have a table saw.
Posted by Jim Upchurch (Member # 209) on :
Scooter, acrylic is brittle, you can't cut it like glass. The best way is to use a triple ground tooth on a high tooth count blade. Like 80 teeth on a 10" blade for example. They cost about 100 bucks but will be well worth it, puts a nice edge on the material with no chipping. Chipping will be a major factor with a lessor blade.
Posted by Eric Barker (Member # 2972) on :
Scooter, I have to agree with Jim, a finish blade is the way to go. You might look for a friendly woodworker, who would cut it for you. The edges can be finished by sanding and then applying a solvent cement made for acrylic. This stuff melts the two pieces of acrylic together; and when applied to a smoothly sanded edge, will make it almost clear. Good luck with your project.
Posted by ScooterX (Member # 2023) on :
i guess i'll have my supplier do the cutting and i'll just use the solvent trick to finish the edges. i think my supplier charges $5 for the cutting -- i don't use enough of this stuff justify the expense of a special saw blade yet. thanks for the help, guys.
Posted by Stephen Deveau (Member # 1305) on :
OK! Scooter.
What size are you talking about?
You can Scribe the Panels with a knife if it's not to long...... Posted by ScooterX (Member # 2023) on :
the pieces are about 2' x 2' (they fit inside the door frame). that's why i was hoping i could score and snap with an Olfa plastic cutter.
Posted by Print Wright (Member # 850) on :
Hi Scooter An inexpensive method is to break off one end of a hacksaw blade, bind a bit of tape an 1/2 inch from the end to protect your fingers. Using a stel rule, cut into the acrylic on one side then turn it over and make a matching cut on the other side. The deeper you go the less chance of an uneven end. Place the acrylic on the edge of a bench in line with the cut mark. Support the acrylic on the bench (Iusually use a length of timber placed just inside the cut the full length of the cut) then give the projecting acrylic a sharp bump (I usually use another piece of timber placed on the other side of the bump). This method works well but not as quick as the saw. Kerry
Posted by Si Allen (Member # 420) on :
Scooter....your best bet is to have the supplier cut it for you! You will get a nice straight edge, and no chance of it snapping off at an angle, thus ruioning the piece!
Posted by Robert Thomas (Member # 1356) on :
The best way is having your supplier cut it. You CAN cut the thinner sheets with a plastic scoring blade and snap it. I cut aluminum this way sometimes as well. I flame polish the edges with a propane torch.
Posted by Curtis hammond (Member # 2170) on :
usign a fine tooth (paneling) saw blade in reverse works great. I do it all the time. Cuts like butter. Its ok to use when u are making a sign face and the cut edge will be hidden in the track...
Posted by J.T. Gazaway (Member # 2001) on :
Has anyone used a roto-zip on acrylic? It's worked well for me on everything I've tried it on so far. I cut some circles with it once in some clear acrylic with a template and it went through it clean as a whistle. It flys through laminate really good too. Just curious if anyone else has tried one.
Posted by Mike Pipes (Member # 1573) on :
Scooter, if it's thin material you can score and snap it, that's how the local Lucite places do it with their panel saw.. the saw doesnt actually spin, it just scores the material.
You can also use a table saw, and if you just place a piece of masking tape over the area you are going to cut, you totally eliminate any chipping or melting that might occur. I know it sounds funny, but it's plain and simple fact. I cut acrylics all the time for high end car audio installations (for viewing windows, edgelighting, water fountains, etc) and that's how it's done.
as far as flame polishing the edges.. I talked with a local boat window manufacturer, they make windows and windshields for some major off-shore boat manufacturers. He says they stay clear of flame polishing the edges because the boat owner is sure to use a cleaner with alcohol to clean it, and the alcohol will craze the acrylic because of the flame polishing. They run everything over buffing wheels instead.
Posted by Randy Campbell (Member # 2675) on :
Scooter I just cut 4 pieces 3/16" with a plexi scoring knife that you can pick up at the hardware store. To finish the edges put a piece of fine sand paper on a small block and go to it.Score it until it seperates.Very ease - good luck.
Posted by ScooterX (Member # 2023) on :
since i DONT have a table saw, the only options for cutting it myself are my jig saw or score-and-snap. i had the two pieces i need cut by the supplier, and now i have the rest of a 4x8 sheet left to experiment with. i guess i'll get the Olfa plastic cutter and try that for the next project. thanks for all the feedback!
Posted by Elaine Beauchemin (Member # 136) on :
Olfa "p.cutter 800" will score the plexis. you need to give it a couple of pass before snapping the pieces. it will leave a mark on the edge that you can buff.
And maybe that your supplier have those saber saw blades (gold for material up to 1/8 and green for thicker material.
always keep the masking on the sheet or apply masking tape before cutting.
flame works only on cast acrylic ... buffing will work on most every type of acrylic.
Posted by LEE ATTEWELL (Member # 2407) on :
At my supplier, they cut with a jig saw, rout the edges and polish with a buffing pad. Brings up the edges like glass.
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