We are trying to get into screen printing signs and I have come across a Screen Printing Unit and I need to know if it will do signs and if it is any good and if this is a good price for it. I haven't seen the machine but it is supposed to be in good shape It is a Cincinnati "One Arm Squeegee" 36" X 60" vacuum machine. The price is $800. Is this a good deal and will this machine do orders for say 50 -250 18X24 and 24 X24 coro signs or should I look for another type of machine or make it myself? Where would I get screens for a machine like this also?
Posted by jimmy chatham (Member # 525) on :
it will work for as many as your arm will hold out for. american screen can make tke screens for you they are in norcross. their number is 770-451-5702
Posted by John Thompson (Member # 2750) on :
Jimmy, Do you think it is worth $800 if it is in good shape? Also, how do I go about burning the screens or can I just us vinyl as a blocker or for burning the screens? I know I am a real rookie at this screen printing stuff. We are looking into getting a building built at least later this year and if we do we will probably get a textile screen printing setup also, we just don't have any room for one now. The more I think about it, the more I want to get a full out graphics company going offering signs, tees, and anything else I can figure out how to make. Just about everybody I do business with see's my heat press setting here and wants to know what I get for screened tee's, we can't sub them out and compete with the local competition though. My wife also really wants to get into the screen printing part of it. If we can get it going good, I would even like to get into embrodiary, but that is later on down the road. Maybe it'll keep her busy.
Posted by Glenn Taylor (Member # 162) on :
John,
About the one-arm press, one of the things you want to look at is the table. Make sure it hasn't been abused and that it is flat. The the machine has been used quite a bit, you will probably want to look at getting new squeegees. I would start with a 70 durometer one first.
I get my screens from Victory Frame.
Before you start selling screen printed goods, I strongly suggest learning as much as you possibly can. I would first check out usscreen.com. There is a wealth of information there. I would strongly suggest investing in some of the videos they offer. Also, check out richardgreaves.com
Your education is going to be key in becoming a successful screen printer.
I also bought a used one-arm press earlier this year. It is 60" deep and 72" wide. I paid $400 for it. I'll post a pic of it tomorrow.
If you want to consider farming out screen printed t-shirts, contact me. I can help.
Posted by Ron Helliar (Member # 398) on :
[ July 03, 2003, 10:30 PM: Message edited by: Ron Helliar ]
Posted by Lotti Prokott (Member # 2684) on :
Hi, John. Vinyl won't do for something like 50 copies, I wouldn't even entertain the thought, but use a direct emulsion or presensitized photo stencil film. You will need an exposure unit too, so there's a need for quite a bit of extra room and expenses other than for the printing unit itself. If you check out the Letterville BookShop there is a book about Screenprinting T-Shirts and another one about commercial signmaking. If anyhow possible I would try to hang around a printing shop for a while before starting your own. You mention the local competition, selling at low prices. Can you get a big enough marketshare to pay for your investment? Just a thought. Good luck Posted by John Thompson (Member # 2750) on :
I've actually got a friend who owns a high output screenprinting shop and I've hung around it a good bit talking shop and watching, I just don't want to ask him to much more because he will probably think I am cutting in on his business. Heres another question, somebody told me you can make a "proof" or positive for burning a screen using glass or plexiglass and either rubylith or a opaque dark colored vinyl. Is this so? I know you can build you own exposure unit for a reasonable price also. I really want to get into screenprinting and I haven't ever set my mind to something and not figured out how to do it, thats how I got started in signs, after I figure out screen printing,who knows what'll be next.
Posted by Richard Bustamante (Member # 370) on :
John, Before buying a large one-arm press, I would think you'd buy a set of screen hinges. They are inexpensive and easy to use. You can still print those real estate signs. Hardly no space is required. When your done, simply unscrew the hinges and put them away. At least you'll find out what its all about without having to spend so much money. There are many more hidden costs like; screens, ink(enamel, vinyl ect.)emulsion, vaccum tables, exposure table, squeeges, screen reclaimer...
I hope this will answer a few of your questions.
Emulsions: there are basically two types; Direct and Indirect.
Direct Emulsion: This type is a photo-sensitive polymere, which uses light(UV)to expose a coated screen. It requires a clear positive to create a facsimile of the image you wish to reproduce. The emulsion is applied to the screen using a scoop coater. Let dry in front of a fan for 20 minutes. Once dry the screen becomes photosensitive and is ready to be exposed using your positive. This type of screen is typically used in most print houses.
Indirect Emulsion: This type of emulsion is similar to vinyl with one major distinction: The film on the release backing is photosensitive and water soluble. This type also uses a positive for creating the image on your screen. Once the film is exposed development can be accomplished by lightly spraying the film with water.
Direct/Indirect Emulsion: This emulsion is similar to indirect with one major advantage; it needs no positive. This water soluble film can be run through your plotter for image creation. Like vinyl the image is weeded, and is applied to a wet screen.
My favorite. Green Cut is an indirect/direct emulsion. It is very simple to use. Simply plot it out, weed it up, and apply it to your screen. It's as simple as that. No exposer unit. No coating and drying time. No positive. No development. It's ready to print almost immediately.
Glossary
Durometer: This refers to the rigidness of your squeegie.
Newtons: Refers to the tightness of the screen. An average screen is approximately 17 Newtons.
Screen Mesh: This refers to the individual strands of the polyester fabric of the screen. Note: Silk is no longer used. The mesh count determines the resolution of the print.
Off Contact: This refers to the space between the substrate and the screen, and eliminates the problem called "pop-off."
Epilog ------------------------------------------------ Screen Printing is like golf. Some days it can be real fun, and some days can be frustrating as hell. Printing bad ones is like that bad slice you can't get rid of. I like printing. I don't like cleaning all that ink up. Try not to print on that positive. I hate it when that happens. Remember to always keep one hand free of ink. I hate wiping off red fingerprints. What the hell is Butolcellusol?
This is Richard Bustamante with this ole`sign saying, "Oh sh*t...I forgot what I was gonna`...Oh yea...Ahhhhh...Watch out for those fumes."
Posted by jimmy chatham (Member # 525) on :
John if you want to come over 1 day i will answer all the questions i can. be glad to show you my equipment and shop. i am usually here on sundays also.
Posted by John Thompson (Member # 2750) on :
As soon as I get caught up in the next few days or so I will call you up and come over Jimmy. I really would like to see a setup and ask some questions.
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