I've got a question that has probably been asked here a hundred times but...
I have used basecoat/clearcoat or 1-Shot on everything from automotive to signage to wall murals, etc. but, I have never done a boat. I've been asked to put a cartoon on a boat and I am going to do it with 1-Shot. My question is this: Do I have to prep the surface a certain way? Can I just use something like Rapid Prep and just go for it? Do I have to use catalyst/hardner? This is probably a dumb one but, what is gel coat and should I worry about it? Thanks for your help folks! I really appreciate it.
Posted by Bill Preston (Member # 1314) on :
Hi John,
Gel coat is more or less another term for fiberglass. Prep it about the same as a set of truck doors-- assume it has been waxed, and go from there. Shiny gel coat is more forgiving of mistakes than dull-- with dull you can get a stain effect if you make a fluff.
Catalyst/hardener is more a matter of personal choice IMHO, I don't recall ever feeling the need for it.
Hope this is of some help.
[ May 14, 2002, 04:00 PM: Message edited by: Bill Preston ]
Posted by Dave Grundy (Member # 103) on :
John...Gel-coat is basically a coloured fireglass resin that is formulated to form a hard weather resistant finish.
One shot OR urethane paints will not harm the stuff at all. The toughest job I ever had of getting one-shot off a gelcoat finish was because the original letterer had used hardener in the one-shot.
People get all worried about "harming" gel-coat. It is tougher than everyone thinks. If it is a new boat there will be mold release wax embedded in the surface so you will have to remove that with anything and everything you can think of. Splash some water on the surface. If it beads there is still wax there....keeps prepping until there is no wax residue left. Anything you would use on a vehicle to prep the surface will work fine on gel-coat!
Posted by Santo (Member # 411) on :
John, The 2 guys above give you the straight stuff. The thing about gelcoat it is specially formulated to have that shiny smooth finish. The finish is acheived by spraying the layer of gelcoat inside a perfectly made mold. The finished surface never sees the open air as it dries. It should be perfect, no runs, no hits, no errors. The only thing between it and the mold is a coating of mold wax to aid in releasing the finished boat from the mold. Since the gelcoat can be pigmented there is no need for the manufacturer to paint the hull, so their efforts to clean the wax off the hull is minimum. Go to the area where the factory decals are placed on the boat and run your hands over the area. Go to where you are going to paint and start cleaning until it feels the same to the touch. Then clean again for good measure. Clean extra around chime lines, splash rails and anything molded.
[ May 14, 2002, 04:49 PM: Message edited by: Santo ]
Posted by John Cordova (Member # 220) on :
Wow! I have to say it again, I love this place! Thanks you all your help. I couldn't (or I should say wouldn't)have done it without this information. I shall tackle this job this weekend now that I know. I've done a couple of older wave runners but this boat is brand new and worth $40,000. I wanted to make sure.
Posted by old paint (Member # 549) on :
jon...us old farts were paintin boats...when they only had steam power!!!!!! hahahahaha just sayin that paintin boats been around a long time...and most of the big big boats perfer paint....or real gold leaf....i did a boat here..guy called and asked what i charge to paint transome, asked how much space i had to fill, and how many colors...well he told me 10-12' and wanted it in black....told him $200....got to the boat, it was 80 ft, 14' beam, 3 fly bridges and cost $800,000!!!!!!!! and i shoulda charged more....heheheheh
Posted by T.Howell (Member # 875) on :
John, sometimes all the rubbing to remove mold release and customer applied wax can generate static electricity in the area to be lettered. A quick wipe with a damp rag will neutralize this. I have had jobs where the static electricty will suck the paint off of the bruch from a half inch away. Makes it a little tough to cut a sharp corner. Acetone is a good cleaner but evaporates too quickly. I mix a little paint thinner with it to keep the wax in suspension till it can be wiped off. Seems to work. Gets it squeeky clean. Keep the faith, Tom
Posted by T.Howell (Member # 875) on :
BTW, John, do you know Lyle Greenburg down there in Albuquerque?
Posted by Bruce Bowers (Member # 892) on :
Hey John,
If excessive wiping is causing static build up, I sometimes give the area a very light misting of Static Guard.
I use rapid prep and then water/alcohol wipe down for prep. I know others may disagree but, hey, it works for me. You will figure out what works best for you.
I don't use hardner in my lettering enamel on boats. I find that the paint will set up too quickly. Being outdoors and in the sun will set it fast enough on it's own.
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