I have a tablesaw that has been sitting idle for a while and the top surface has some fine powdery rust. This is a machined surface and my stock will be passing over it. I want to clean it up before I put it in use. Do the rust neutralizer products work? Should I lightly sand and thinnly coat with a clear? What about the grooved channels for guides do I even try to get a coating in them.
[ May 13, 2002, 09:05 AM: Message edited by: Santo ]
Posted by John Smith (Member # 1308) on :
Santo, like many folks, I use my table saw for drying painted items and a collect-all. Funny you should mention this now as I am going to clean it up this week for some projects that will need to be fairly clean after sawing. My plans are to take it outside and scrape all the big chunks of paint off first. Then, wetsand all the rust off by hand. Maybe even the R.A. with 220 grit. Then rinse it well with clean water. After that, I will spray a good soaking of Rogers Rapid Prep to degrease it then wash again and spray with clear Krylon. That's my plan as of now. I will wait to see what tricks others have up their sleeves .(common sense dictates covering the motor and controls with plastic)
I do want to add that mine is a 20 year old 10" Craftsman contractors saw on castors. Not a large expensive model that would take more TLC.
[ May 13, 2002, 09:48 AM: Message edited by: John Smith ]
Posted by Steve Nuttle (Member # 2645) on :
Sounds like a plan John. I had a jointer that had sat around the shop for quite a while and had a bit of rust on the machined table. I used fine steel wool. I have also used 600 git wet paper or scotch brite pads. After the rust is removed I take a very light 3 in one oil on a rag and wipe the surface. Not enough to mess up the piece you are cutting but enough to coat the surface lightly. Personally I would never clear coat any of my tools. There is a reason they are not clear coated when you buy them new! Also even though WD-40 is supposed to replace moisture, I have found over many years as an aircraft mechanic that it actually attracts moisture. I would never use WD-40 as the final wipe. Good luck Santo.
Posted by Joe Cieslowski (Member # 2429) on :
I think I would use emery paper with a light machine oil to remove the rust. Water may get into places that might cause a problem later. Degrease as John says and most any clear will work. A hard paste wax will work also...make sure it dries good before you buff. Dust some corn starch on the surface and wipe it around. This will reduce table friction when you use the saw. I was taught this by a long time woodworker 30 years ago. Seems to work for me with all my machines in my dirt floor basment. Like you John, I'll be following this post with interest! Joe, Makin Chips and Havin Fun!
Posted by Amy Brown (Member # 1963) on :
Santo,
My husband always sprays it with WD-40 and then sands it with the Random Orbit Sander and fine sandpaper, then wipes it off.
I read one time that if you spray a light coat of clear on it the rust doesn't happen as fast!
Posted by Rick Sacks (Member # 379) on :
wd-40 and sand paper first. Wipe clean. Wipe clean again. Wax. No clear coat.
There is a wax made for such surfaces that you get at furniture making supply places. It'll keep the surface slippery and won't affect paint bonding.
Posted by Steve Purcell (Member # 1140) on :
Clean with 320 wet/dry and light oil. Dress surface with Butchers Wax, dry & buff. No clear coats.
Posted by J.T. Gazaway (Member # 2001) on :
Fine sandpaper or steel wool will work, but I'm too lazy for that. Pick up a fine wire brush attachment for a power drill and spin that baby over the surface. It gets the rust in the grooves as well as the surface. They make quick work of rust spots in a matter of seconds. Look for a cone shaped one with the bristles facing forward. You'll be done in a flash.
Posted by Don Hulsey (Member # 128) on :
Since you only have light beginnings of rust, wiping with #00 steel wool will clean it up. Joe's corn starch works real well, just a light dusting and wipe around with a soft cloth.
WD-40, or any type of oil should never be used on this type surface.(it WILL get in the wood)
Clear coats also should NEVER be used. Any type of clear will eventually scratch, and the scratches will hold contaminants, that WILL effect the wood.
There are 2 ways to prevent this problem...
1. Use the saw often enough that rust doesn't have a chance to start.
2. Between uses, cover the saw with an old sheet (this makes it unhandy for setting objects that don't belong on a table saw)
Posted by Santo (Member # 411) on :
Thanks for all the great replys on this one. I have been around table saws a long time but never had a rust problem since they were always in use. The small portable direct drive that I have been using spoiled me. It had an aluminum table and set up on a workmate in seconds and could be stored quickly. My dad asked for it because it was easy to use and, he was too old (born the day the stock market crashed 1929) to handle the bigger 10" unit(with the rusted table)by himself. So we traded. Old boy figured he was getting the best of the deal so he threw in a 6" bench grinder. That little portable craftsmen was a easy 35 years old and has cut everything from ceramic tiles to aluminum. 1 change of brushes. It will start to cut parquet flooring for 4 rooms this week.
[ May 13, 2002, 11:44 AM: Message edited by: Santo ]
Posted by Wayne Webb (Member # 1124) on :
What Don said. Oil is a no no.
Posted by Bill Preston (Member # 1314) on :
Pretty much what has already been said-- clean up the table and apply a coat of past wax, and buff thoroughly.
Along the same line, if your circular hand saw starts developing some drag, clean the sole plate-- or shoe-- and wax that as well. The blade will also occasionally get a buildup of something sticky and drag-- you might consider cleaning it with a "prep-sol" type cleaner and waxing as well.
FWIW.
Posted by Jim Upchurch (Member # 209) on :
I would second the fine sandpaper with oil treatment. I would use a wet or dry automotive type. As for the protection I have used paste wax but in Washington we have some fairly high humidity and noticed that it doesn't quite live up to snuff. I have better success with a something called Topcoat, a rattle can product by Bostik. It reduces friction, doesn't add contaminants to your stock and prevents rust.
Posted by Ben Sherr (Member # 2874) on :
Finally, something I feel qualified to help with. WD-40 and steel wool to loosen the rust, (and here's the part I didn't see anyone else get!) go to you local auto parts store, and get a couple of cans of Brake Parts Cleaner, use it to spray off the old rust and WD-40, then blow it down with an air hose. Brake cleaner evaporates rapidly, dispels water and oil, and leaves no residue. Even if it gets into the electric motor, there is no harm done, just blow it out until it is dry, and give it a couple of minutes to evaporate before you use it. I have used this stuff to clean out alternators on cars, with the car running.
