I know cedar is very weatherable material, but on a sign do you clearcoat or varnish the raw cedar to avoid that graying effect? other wise on the painted parts just prime and paint?
Posted by Michael Boone (Member # 308) on :
Hay....man who paint sign with left hand......... try sign life and their line of products.... freshen every few years.... customer will appreciate ongoing support..... did ya finish the "3000" words or more panel?
Posted by Bill Cosharek (Member # 1274) on :
Ken,
Don't know if this will help or not but in case you didn't know, you have one of the best resources for information on wood at the University of Massachusetts (Umass) at Amherst. They have a whole program on "Building Materials and Wood Technology" & quite an informative website. One of the faculty members (R.B. Hoadley) wrote the book "Understanding Wood" back in 1980 & he's still there.
It's stated in the book that greying occurs when the cellular structure begins to break down. This is caused by moisture & a cellulosic residue (byproduct of breakdown) which mix to form the grey color.
So, if you're asking if raw cedar should be coated in some way, then I'd have to say yes. But whatever you use, make sure its rated for outdoor use & compatible with the wood surface.
[ May 08, 2002, 10:00 AM: Message edited by: Bill Cosharek ]
Posted by Corey Wine (Member # 1640) on :
I just got using a brand called Sikkens Cetol 1. I was recommended to use 1 coat of that and 3 coat of Sikkens TGL(i think that is what it is called). You can get your sign blasted, remove all the mask, stain the whole sign =, apply the TGL on Everything then,lightly sand the areas where you prefer to paint and paint right over the TGL. No primer needed...no touching up primer drips.
Posted by captain ken (Member # 742) on :
I am wondering if that will work with just a good spar varnish???
p.s. Yes I did finish my Plug thesis paper, only 2 peopple left to witness
[ May 09, 2002, 08:04 AM: Message edited by: captain ken ]
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