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Posted by Ant Lockyer (Member # 2909) on :
 
Anyone got any tips for trimming my striping brushes?

I've read John Hukaines book but seem a bit confused as to where and how much I should cut.

I'm fed up with it getting all scraggy in the turns.

Thanks

Ant
 
Posted by Santo (Member # 411) on :
 
I trimmed a #00 sword according to John's book and the problem of belly drag was solved, but I don't care for the way it palletes and the amount of paint it holds when loaded. I took off a little more than what is pictured.

[ April 22, 2002, 12:02 PM: Message edited by: Santo ]
 
Posted by Bill Preston (Member # 1314) on :
 
Hi Ant,

I don't do a lot of striping so be forewarned. About all I do with striping brushes is take just enough off the tip to get a more or less square tip. Not more than a sixteenth of an inch. Do this with a new x-acto blade, and not scissors. Scissors are not sharp enough to do it right.

The other thing is this--on the tight turn stuff, don't be afraid to switch to a low numbered quill. The purists would argue that this is bad form, but if you're more interested in good results and not how you got them, then switch.

Just our .02
 
Posted by Joey Madden (Member # 1192) on :
 
well, all I can say is that I never have trimmed the underbelly of any Sword striping brush. Though I've heard of it for a Dagger and since I never have used a Dagger I haven't a word to say.

I agree with Bill Preston for the rest, except that I probably am a purist in the fact that 99.9% of all my work is pinstriping.

Let me add that they make Sword brushes with both more and less bellies, so I can't see why anyone would trim it, unless of course if they don't have a clue as to what to do from the get-go.

I never got to read any pinstriping books when I started out as there just weren't any on the market, cept'n that my father would give me tests as to what I was supposed to do and his explanation when I didn't do it correctly.
 
Posted by George Perkins (Member # 156) on :
 
I'm with Joey and Bill, just knock the tip off. Not everybody uses the brush the same nor do they like the same brand. I would suggest buying a half dozen differnt brands and finding out which you are more comfortable with. Some just don't turn worth a darn. Also when doing turns you need to get up on the tip some and slow way down while turning, you almost have to wait on the brush.
 
Posted by Santo (Member # 411) on :
 
The brush I like best for control in the turns is the 3 brush from Lazerlines. I looked at the long hairs and thought I'd made a mistake in buying it, but it turns and gives me real good line quality. I won't be trimming anything but the tips of a brush again. I'm glad I did my experiment on a Mack 20.
 
Posted by Ant Lockyer (Member # 2909) on :
 
Thanks everyone. I trimmed a handover sword like John said and it made it a bit better, then I pulled out a brand new mack and it was a 1000 times better.

It's amazing that after a few months hard effort, as soon as the Mack brushes turn up I can stripe designs that I'm pleased with and wouldn't be afraid to put on a car.

Give me another year and I'll be pretty good I think [Smile]

Now shall I buy that Lazerlines kit now [Smile]
 


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