OK, finin=shing my on going Cedar sign using acrylic enamels (on 10 % of the sign- all the raised parts) and staining all the "blasted" areas. I was not going to use ANY finish (varnish, urathane...) however, a buddy mentioned I should protect the stain SOMEHOW and recommended a tongue oil.
What's your views?
Also, won't the stain appear alot daker after 2 coats on the "BLASTED" portion because of all the highs and lows? Is one coat enough or a coat of medium stain and then a coat of clear (natural) stain??
This is the last question for this "on going" job...I PROMISE!
Posted by old paint (Member # 549) on :
tounge oil(made from the tounges of dead cows, hahahahaha)is great for a "fine furiture finish". i got a tv cart i built from 5/4 white oak, and after sanding i tounge oiled it. its at leat 10 yrs old, no crackes or grian seperation. but...i say but...iam not painting over the tounge oil......nice thing with tounge oil is if you think your piece of furniture is a little dull, put on another couple coats.....2,3,5,10 years later....
Posted by Corey Wine (Member # 1640) on :
That's great but, how would it work for n exterior cedar sign? Can you brush it on? It wouldn't be going over the acrylic enamel or visa versa....just over the stain.
Posted by Wayne Webb (Member # 1124) on :
HAHAHA Joe...you took what I was gonna say! Ground up cow tongues.
It's Tung oil and it comes from the seeds of the Tung oil tree. They used to be grown in this part of the country and some trees still grow wild here. It is or was used as a paint additive and waterproofing agent, among other things, but I don't think I would be using it on a client's sign unless I first did some more research and experimentation. Just my .02
Posted by AdrienneMorgan (Member # 1046) on :
Is that made by the same people that make nose oil?????
Enquireing minds wanna know.....
Posted by goddinfla (Member # 1502) on :
I don't think I would use tung oil on an exterior sign. I've used it on furniture before. The common saying on using tung or other hand rubbed oil is: once a day for a week once a week for a month once a month for a year and once a year forever. It really soaks in.
Posted by John Smith (Member # 1308) on :
I have used quite a bit of tongue oil on furniture. I think it says right on the label "for interior use only". If you want a clear protective finish that saturates the wood, why not check out the properties of Thompsons Wood Sealer/Preservative?? And, since it is water thin, you can put it in a spray bottle and just spray it on!! Then, come back with a soft clean cloth and wipe off your painted elements.
[ April 15, 2002, 04:46 PM: Message edited by: John Smith ]
Posted by Joe Cieslowski (Member # 2429) on :
I have been using the Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane for over 20 yrs. and have always had good luck with it. The first coat takes about 24hrs to dry. After that, they dry in 8-10hrs. 3 or four coats should give you plenty of protection. Joe, Makin Chips and Havin Fun!
Posted by roger bailey (Member # 556) on :
P-LU-SID...sounds like a psychologial disfuntion...
Posted by Corey Wine (Member # 1640) on :
So I need to put something over the stain to protect it. YES? NO?
Posted by Joe Cieslowski (Member # 2429) on :
Yes you do! Joe, Makin Chips and Havin Fun!
Posted by bronzeo (Member # 1408) on :
John, not to be argumentative, but every time I have seen Thompsons used on an exterior surface, it has led to a irrevocable mess in 2 to 3 years. It tends to seperate and sluff off in just certain areas and turns lighter in color. People in this part of the country that have used it, have had poor luck. All instances that I have seen have been on CCA, but that has been plenty. It might be better on another wood type, but wanted to post this warning on what I have witnessed. Jack
Posted by bronzeo (Member # 1408) on :
Corey, Sorry, I didn't give you an alternative choice. I don't know but what an exterior stain base might have the best preserving qualities. I would imagine that they could mix a color that would resemble the fresh cut cedar. and you could revamp the appearance in 2 to 3 years, with another fast coat. It wouldn't be shiny, and penetrates well. My guess is it would be the closest to a long term natural appearance. Jack
Posted by Bob Rochon (Member # 30) on :
Corey
I am not by far a sandblasted expert but I have made quite a few and always stained the blasted part with a thinned version of one-shot as my stain, I never cleared nor would I advise to ( just my opinion ) I have seen clear coats crack, peel & flake in 2-3 years.
When left alone, I have had no failures.
Although I am still in the testing stages of Pelucid myself, I cannot advise with confidence. Call Pierre @ St Marie Graphics, you will find his number in the merchant area of the BB.
At this point no matter what you try will be a walk of faith, and this will turn into your experience.
Good Luck and have fun.
Posted by Corey Wine (Member # 1640) on :
By mentioning this, I will probably get some comments but, I am going with Minwax's stain/urathane combo mix on Joe's recommendation. Thanks Joe. I don't know what else to use. Pelucid interests me but, it sounds like there is a learning period for it that I don't have time for. I am thinking a urathane is my only hope. Anyone??????
Posted by old paint (Member # 549) on :
just a question here.....dont know never tried it but just a thought....a light oil like 3 IN 1 on the exposed wood, it would keep the water out..........
Posted by Wayne Webb (Member # 1124) on :
Corey, I don't know if you are using the same species or if it's called the same up there but Western Red Cedar is what I have used. It has a lot of tannins in it. They will emerge and discolor especially with light colored stains. I would use two or three coats of a solid color latex stain. Consider yourself warned also: I have used Helmsman Spar Urethane when I was first starting out. It does not last more than a couple of years in my neck of the woods. Maybe you'll have better luck up North.
Posted by bronzeo (Member # 1408) on :
I would agree with that analogy, and not put on anything that would seal the surface. I would use only soak in preservatives and stain type pigments that will reside with such. The fact that cedars, redwoods, and such have natural leaching tannins which Wayne speaks of is a great reason not to seal it up. This is the problem with Thompsons and other sealing products. They may work great on woods that don't have something captivated inside, but will assuradly break down in short order. jmho.....Jack
![[Razz]](tongue.gif)
![[Smile]](smile.gif)