I have used 3M and Mactac cuttable mask films. I find them both too aggressive for a slick surface, and the 3M leaves a reaction with OS enamels and makes a dull appearance that needs polishing. It seems to make a lot of difference on how rough or slick your surface is. Info on any types of masking supplies that you like, would be appreciated. Thanks for your replys, Jack
[ March 30, 2002, 07:26 AM: Message edited by: bronzeo ]
Posted by Rick Sacks (Member # 379) on :
Jack, we use the CalMask, but it also has a very agressive adhesive. The few that have a lesser adhesive seem to leak more. We have this paint curing lamp and it heats the surface and we find the mask comes off real easily when its warmed.
Posted by Jeffrey Vrstal (Member # 2271) on :
I usually use Gerber Mask. They have a #1 and #2 tack, # one being less aggresive (I think). Anyway, I find that to be too much sometimes. I also have seen the problem that it causes on the paint surface... I think that is because the paint has not dried "enough". It would take quite a while for some of those paints to fully cure. Seems that when I try to rush a little is when I experience that situation. I have noticed that it seems to disappear a little, and usually all the way if you clear the sign.
Warmer temps seem to lessen the tack of the mask material. At least it seems that way on vehicles for me. I like to try to get it off without the darn thing ripping or falling back into the fresh paint.
Posted by Brad Ferguson (Member # 33) on :
This could simply be tape tracks from the paint not being fully cured, as mentioned. I bet if you use the hardener for One Shot it won't happen as much. The hardener speeds up the curing.
Brad in Kansas
Posted by timi NC (Member # 576) on :
I have to agree with Brad here,..If you are getting impressions in the paint it hasn't fully cured.It may be dry to the touch but this only means the paint is dry on top and still green underneath. Unless you exercise some patience this problem will never go away. Another solution may be patterns and hand lettering ,but this will leave an even nastier impression if you don't exercise enough patience to let the paint fully cure on top and underneath the dry upper layer.I tell my customers ,...High Quality,...Low Price,...Speedy Delivery,...you can only pick 2 as you ultimately will have to scarifice one of the 3 to get the other 2. However I also refuse to offer a speedy delivery at a premium price & produce a substandard product.
Posted by captain ken (Member # 742) on :
I just bought a roll of what I consider the best mask yet, I used em all in the past but the Oracal 813 spray mask is awesome it has a good tack and itpeels like a breeze, the added bonus is that its transparent tinted blue which makes it easy to line up and even hand cut on the surface, very versitile. If I think a mask is gonna have too much tack I lightly go over the surface with a white pounce pad the light layer of baby powder makes it peel real easy.
Posted by Monte Jumper (Member # 1106) on :
Anytime we mask anything here we use Tranferite masking and hand cut the stencil.I never use gerbermask or any of the others I have found them all to be doomed to failure.
Once bit twice shy!
Besides if you use the computer to make the pattern you can hand cut nearly as fast as most plotters and your not standing there watching the plotter while you wait.
Posted by roger bailey (Member # 556) on :
Mix more hardner in the paint.
Just my 2 cents, 5% won't do it.
Roger Posted by bronzeo (Member # 1408) on :
Roger, Why do you think that? 2% makes a lot of difference in curing. After a lot of shoots, 10% feels like a real max, and maybe a manufacturer preference at 30.00+ per quart.
Posted by old paint (Member # 549) on :
try some automotive a/e with hardner for backgrounds....this works awesome, is longer lasting, higher gloss and drys (in maui) in a couple of hours...spray it, 2 costs and your done...
Posted by roger bailey (Member # 556) on :
I was paintin cars (and lots a other things)when these systems came out,that was a lot of paint jobs and years ago.
I used more then 10%, no ill effects. Sometimes you have to stop lookin at the cost of materials, and pay more attention to the amount of lost time and re-do costs when things happen (like what happened to you)
How much labor time and "new" materials will this whole thing cost you ??
Roger Posted by bronzeo (Member # 1408) on :
Roger, Using hardener to its limits, has proven faulty in a lot of cases, and much more often than when we use it conservatively. Your recommendation for use is at its highest recommended mix. If you are referring to the problems that I have in the other post "painting woes",,,, it is not a drying problem, or a curing problem (at least time related). It is just poor adhesion, and maybe one brought on by the hardener itself. That is one reason I have cut back on the use of it. Something is wrong, I know that, but more hardener is not going to fix it. I don't even think it is at all time related, as the problems occur 6 months later also.
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