Has anyone had any problems with either calendered or cast vinyls adhering to exterior acrylic latex paints. I've used such paints for exterior dimensional signs and am very happy with the results and especially the healthier atmosphere working with these paints not to mention the benefit of faster drying and easy cleaning. Now I am contemplating a vinyl logo/lettering project on 2-4x8's and am seriously considering using semi-gloss acrylic latex to prime and coat out the board. I'm hoping to avoid an expensive experiment. Can anyone tell me if this is a good idea or not?????
Thanks!
Posted by Lettercraft (Member # 268) on :
Marty, I prime with exterior flat. and topcoat with GLOSS. HP vinyl works great on that, and the topcoat lasts and lasts.
Posted by cheryl nordby (Member # 1100) on :
Hi there Marty.....If you put vinyl on latex....the more gloss the better. Also..do it dry. I am still stuck on oil based high gloss paint for vinyl.
Posted by Si Allen (Member # 420) on :
If your vinyl doen't want to stick to the semi gloss....give it a coat of any clear gloss....problem solved!
Posted by old paint (Member # 549) on :
somewhere on here ive seen or read that some vinyl wont stick to some brands of latex...sherwin williams comes to mind....check with the vinly manfacture....and ive had some vinyl just drop off ...after being put on latex
Posted by Wayne Webb (Member # 1124) on :
I apply premium vinyl to Sherwin Williams DTM acrylic hi gloss with no problems. I spray the paint on for a slick finish.
Posted by Marty Happy (Member # 302) on :
Just to follow up... I applied calendered vinyl to high gloss acrylic latex paints and found that it didn't grip near as tighly as I would have liked. Maybe it was the nature of the acrylic latex paint or maybe it was because the painted MDO surface had some small pebble which I could not seem to get perfectly flat with a paint roller and of course one's window of opportunity to work acrylic paint is pretty limited. Maybe spraying is the only way to get a perfectly level high gloss sheen. I ended up overcoating with alkyd paint and the vinyl immediately adhered much, much better.
I decided this job wasn't going to be an experiment. I like the extremely user-friendly acrylic latex paints for my dimensional work but for now I don't have the confidence that they would work for medium-term vinyl-lettered signage.
Thank you for all your input!
Posted by Ian Wilson (Member # 177) on :
Whatever you do do not use teflon based vinyl paints or any of the vinyl paints that are marked easy clean vinyl just falls of real quick like within 2 hrs most embarrassing
Posted by Todd Gill (Member # 2569) on :
Marty,
I worked for a company (you've probably heard of Spar-Cal) that sold sign vinyl and converted vinyl into graphics.
Although it has been some years, I do recall that the QC department said NOT to apply vinyl to wood products painted with Acrylic Latex paints..and I think this was partially due to the fact that the paint itself wasn't the best for vinyl applications, but in addition, the woodgrain (if there was any) would tend to make the application even less successful.
But, that being said....I know I have done it on several occasions with success. I usually give it a good going over with a "rivet-brush" and a healthy shot with a heat gun. These signs were mostly short-term real estate type boards.
Posted by Todd Gill (Member # 2569) on :
P.S.
I do also recall the QC guy at Spartan saying if the plywood (or whatever) was sanded supersmooth and it was a gloss paint that it would probably be ok....off the record as he put it. So, yeah, I think what the others are saying about high gloss is correct.
