A customer(designer) wants their clients logos applied to black panels on their building in SignGold. I know the genuine gold looks nice on a semigloss or flat black background. Would you use the Satin or MiraGold finish? Their logos are made of a rather narrow font, though I may be allowed to thicken(outline) it a little. Thanks in advance for your advice!
Posted by Dave Grundy (Member # 103) on :
Doug..I have used SignGold on black sailboat hulls several times. It looks super. I prefer the engine turned the best.
Posted by Jeffrey Vrstal (Member # 2271) on :
I've lettered several windows using the engine turned sign gold on matte and gloss black backgrounds. Various letter styles and a lot of small scroll detail.
These have been up for 5 years or so and all still look great. At the time that I did these, I did not use a UV clear... I don't know if that was available then or not... I use it a lot now, but those windows still look good.
Posted by Robert Thomas (Member # 1356) on :
To add intrest, maybe a red or process blue outline on a satin black background.
Posted by Dave Grundy (Member # 103) on :
Alan...A wee bit of advice regarding SignGold (the real stuff from SignGold corporation).
This also kinda relates to what Jeffery mentioned.
DO NOT clearcoat the surface of SignGold. The edges can be sealed with clear but anything that you put on the sufrace is gong to come off. Maybe not within a week but eventually it will.
Two experiences of mine...
First experience..I set up a sailboat lettering job so that the outline actually overlapped both the surface of the hull and the surface of the SignGold. I figured that this would act as an edge seal. It did act as an edge seal for as long ast the outline remained on the surface of the SignGold, which was about 2 or 3 months. At that point it was lifting off the SignGold completely. Vinyl doesn't stick to SignGold.
Second experience..The marina where I do a lot of work wnated me to apply SignGold lettering and SignGold stripes. They then planned to clearcoat the entire hull. I mentioned my previous experience with vinyl not sticking but they went ahead and clearcoated the hull anyway, after THOROUGHLY sanding the SignGold with 600 grit wet sandpaper(or something like that). The job looked BEAUTIFUL...until the boat happened to rub against a dock right where the name was. This caused a scratch in the clearcoat. Within a few weeks ALL of the clearcoat had peeled off that name!
Two experiences that I have had. I no longer let anyone put ANYTHING over SignGold..It's factory finish is impervious to virtually anything.
Posted by Jeffrey Vrstal (Member # 2271) on :
I remembered something else, imagine that! When I was at the Milwaukee panel jam this summer, I sat in on the "AcuDOME" demonstration. There was a question about using it over SignGold... I'm not sure what the answer was exactly, but you had to prep it or sand it or something (help my memory here) to make it work... and I think it was not recommended. Perhaps you need to do the same thing for a clear coat.
Went by some of the windows again yesterday...the ones not cleared... all still look GREAT!
I liked the outline additional color idea. Perhaps start with the background (black) and then build up from there with Sign Gold as the final layer?
Good Luck.
Posted by Santo (Member # 411) on :
Dave, I'm told that SignGold will not warranty work on marine vessels unless clearcoated. Do you know what product they recommend for that coating?
