AND, a few questions regarding pounce paper. What's the difference between coated and uncoated pounce paper? Why would you want one over the other? And along those same lines, why buy 60# over 20#? I assume the heavier paper could be used two or three times where as the lighter is probably a one-time use.
I can get Avery 20# uncoated paper for what seems to be a good price (24" x 450 ft = $33.00). But is there a disadvantage to the lightweight and uncoated paper?
Thank you for any help you can give.
Yes, you can use Roland pens in your PC-60 to draw patterns, which can then be hand perforated.
I know of no reason you would need coated paper for pounce patterns, however you'll find the heavier paper is easier to work with, especially if you are doing something like pouncing a layout up on a wall on a windy day. I've always used white butcher paper. It comes in various widths, is heavy weight and inexpensive. You should be able to find it in your area at a wholesale paper company.
Can't help you on the Roland pen question. With my Ioline, I just place a regular ball point pen into the holder and it works fine.
Coated vs. uncoated paper-- I know of no advantage of one over the other. 20 lb. vs. 60 lb. -- probably the lighter weight would be more inclined to tear if you are working out in the wind.
On plotting a pounce pattern-- if you have to perforate by hand, try plotting in horizontal mirror (backwards) perforate with your wheel, lightly sand the other side of the paper to open the holes, place the pattern and dust with the color of your choice. One other thing on working with patterns; if you have several lines of copy close together, try covering the line(s) below the one you are working on with a piece of body shop masking paper. This prevents wiping off your pounce with your hand as you are lettering. I know, the mahl stick prevents this, but I don't use a stick.
The reason for plotting backwards is that there is a little bit of the "points" of the holes sticking up, and the holes will catch a bit more of your dusting powder, and you will get a better pounce print. BTW, I never remember to do this backwards bit, and my pounce print always comes out light.
Hope this helps.
using the electro pounce you don't have to sand the back of the pattern in order to open up the holes.
one word of caution, never use a metal yardstick! yeeeeeeeooooowwwww!
mark
the electro pounce actually "burns" holes into the pattern through an arcing process between stylus, paper and a grounded metal surface.
tell them you found out about their product here in letterville.
[ October 01, 2001: Message edited by: Mark Fair Signs ]
Butchers paper is great, but I've found an even cheaper source ... the local Newspaper 
They sell the end rolls of newsprint, 100ft or so, for $2! It comes in a variety of widths but one is 24". The 3ft rolls can be slit to size or make excellent masking.
Another trick is the Graphtec pens are expensive. A couple of drops of water will extend their life. But I save them, and when I get my ink jet cartridges refilled they do the pens too for $1 each!
Finally ... I seldom actually pounce the patterns ... we make a "carbon" paper out of brown wrapping paper and charcoal stick. We find this is just as quick especially on one-off patterns.
I haven't seen anything from Roland that referenced a pounce wheel for any of their plotters, so I just assumed there wasn't any possibility of one that could be used with the PC-60. Good question, though. That would make things a little easier.
Thanks for the responses and help everyone.
Your question about coated and uncoated paper has not been addressed yet. Coated paper doesn't absorb the powdered charcoal making it a tad cleaner to work with and requiring a little less powder to do the same job. I don't find it worth the price difference.
I didn't have any recently when I needed to pounce something so I used some powdered rouge (makeup), and seeing as I also didn't have need of very much I stippled it into the holes with a big fluffy makeup brush! It worked!
For powder, Blue carpenter's chalk works fine on light backgrounds. Talcum powder on dark. Stay away from RED carpenter's chalk, it's REALLY hard to get it off some surfaces.
I'll often pre-chalk my patterns before using on the to-be-painted-surface.
Good Luck.
A[ October 01, 2001: Message edited by: AdrienneMorgan ]
Don't know about the make-up part of the deal... I often use whatever is on hand to make something work when I am out of something... I suppose I could try lip balm. Just kidding. Red chalk seems to leave stains than don't want to come out. I have had luck removing it from white (auto finish) surfaces using GOOP hand cleaner. That was before I switched to blue.
Have a great day!
A handy tip for anone doing some tiny stuff with yer perforating...
grab an x-acto knife handle...
take out the blade...
get a large safety pin and break off the part with the point in it...
put that in your handle.
You'd be surprised how much fun it is to use. It makes for a nice smooth pattern if you don't like to see the pounce wheel eat the pattern in high traffic areas, or on dots for eyes, punctuation, etc.
(this suggestion is for hand pouncing situations...just in case somebody doesn't realize it)
Thanks again.
Sign pounce wheels tend to be a bit thicker, with a lot sharper teeth, and come in several sizes. There is also a variation in spacing between the teeth-- as in sometimes you don't need the holes all that close together.
Last time I bought a set of three, different sizes, and not all that pricey. One of my old ones was pretty well worn out in that the hole in the center of the wheel where the pin went through was worn wide, and the wheel just sort of flopped around. Made for some interesting patterns, tho'.
Hope this helps.
Just thought of a couple of other things. No one has mentioned that when you go to perforate your pattern with a wheel, put some thin cardboard or better yet illustration board under the paper. This allows the wheel to poke thru a little more for bigger and better holes.
Totally off the track--- weeding tool-- Linda's idea about a pin in a handle reminded me. There is an x-acto type gadget out there that takes a blunt ended pin and works great to hold down small letters when weeding.
[ October 02, 2001: Message edited by: Bill Preston ]
The pounce wheels sold at yardage goods stores are a little different. They would probably work for large letters, but you'd have a hard time making patterns for 2 or 3 inch letters.
I just checked Dick Blick's online catalog www.dickblick.com and I see they have 4 different types of Grifhold aluminum pounce wheels that sell between $3.29 and $3.49 or you can buy the set of 4 for $12.99. The difference is the size of the wheel and teeth. 15 tooth, beveled both sides is probably the most commonly used
I know what you mean about paying more for freight than the item cost, but I guesss that's just a fact of life, as their minimum freight is $5.95.
Check with your local sign supply. If they don't stock them, they should be able to get one for you.
An old time signman's pounce trick is to carry a rolled up piece of felt in your sign kit, to use as a backing if you have to make a pounce pattern when you are working at a job site. A piece of aluminum window screen makes a good backer for an Electro-Pounce if you are working on a wooden easel.
