The Letterville BullBoard: Large decal application

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Posted by John Deaton (Member # 925) on :

I've got a box truck to do this week, and part of the job entails applying some large digitally printed decals. The customer is the local Ace hardware, and the decals come from peachtree, one of their suppliers. WHat's the best way to apply these. Wet or dry? The surface has rivets, but no more than usual. I've never done an application of a large graphic, though I have no worries about getting it done, but would appreciate suggestions from anyone that has done these.
Looking forward to your replies.

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John Deaton III
Deaton Design
109 N. Cumberland Ave.,Harlan, Ky. 40831 606-573-9101

john@deatondesigns.com
www.deatondesigns.com
"Don't tailgate, or I'll flick a booger on your windshield."-Larry Richmond, 11th grade english class.

Posted by Aladd (Member # 1996) on :

I remove the rivet's & apply wet the let it dry a while so not to wrinkle the vinyl when I re-install the rivet's.

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Alan Ladd
Atlanta,Ga

Posted by roger bailey (Member # 556) on :

What Alan says.

Roger

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Roger Bailey
Rapid Tac Incorporated
Waikoloa, Hawaii

Posted by Dave Grundy (Member # 103) on :

John..I know that Roger will disagree with me but I have never had any luck using application fluid when rivits are involved, so I do all jobs that have rivits and corrugations dry.

One trick that you can use if to use the hinge method and onlt pull back af much of the backing as you need to, and apply a little at a time, pulling back more backing as you work along. The doubled over bascking acts af a buffer to stop the vinyl from falling onto the surface prematurely.

Opps..seems Roger beat me too it!

I have a question....how do you remove rivits? Drill em out? I have removed screws and done wet apps but I have never got up the nerve to drill out or grind off rivits. And do you carry a supply of each of the various sizes and head shapes of rivits? What do you recommend as the correct tool for reinstalling the rivits?

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Dave Grundy
AKA "applicator" on mIRC
"stickin' sticky stuff to valuable vessels and vehicles!"
in Granton, Ontario, Canada
1-519-225-2634
dave.grundy@quadro.net
www.quadro.net/~shirley

[This message has been edited by Dave Grundy (edited July 28, 2001).]

Posted by Pierre St.Marie (Member # 1462) on :

I have a feeling that these aren't the kind of rivets you're going to drill or screw out........right? Bet they're Cherry Rivets. IF that's the case, dry mount only.

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St.Marie Graphics
& Makin' Tracks Sound Studio
Kalispell, Montana
stmariegraphics@centurytel.net http://www.stmariegraphics.com
800 735-8026
We're chiseling every day of the week! :^)

Posted by Tyler (Member # 2093) on :

Definately do it dry. Some smaller trailers, like the kind you pull behind a car or pickup, have rivets that you can remove with a star-shaped bit.
With every box truck I have seen and done so far though, you just have to go right over them. It generally isn't a problem, pretty much ignore them as you are squeegeeing. I have had trouble if I am doing an installation outside when it is very hot, and the vinyl is extrememly warm. In those conditions, it seems that instead of going over the rivets smoothly, it is more apt to create wrinkles between and around them. So make sure the truck itself or the vinyl isn't piping hot. I was doing Mayflower Transit trucks, where the word mayflower was spelled out in 4' x 4' letters. I just hinged from the top, and squeegeed side-to-side, overlapping each stroke quite a bit. This is the fastest and best way I have done them. You can also just squeegee straight down bit by bit, but it takes longer, and you have to be a bit more careful to keep it on track so it doesn't wrinkle. If there are any standard screws around doors or anything like that, just unscrew em, apply vinyl, and put em back in. Hope this helps!

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Tyler Malinky

A Step Above Signs
Cleveland, Ohio
440.479.8129
440.842.1894 fax

www.astepabovesigns.com
tmalinky@astepabovesigns.com or exmayors@aol.com

Posted by Rob Larkham (Member # 2105) on :

DRY DRY DRY DRY !!!!!

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Rob Larkham
RL Graphic D-Sign
Chester, MA
rldsigns@aol.com

Posted by Scott Moyer (Member # 1433) on :

Do not drill out the rivets this is a big mistake I'm in the process of doing a whole fleet of trailers for coca cola so I have a lot of experience, DO NOT USE APPLICATION FLUID
tape the decals in place, apply the decals as you do everyday, with the application tape on, poke holes small ones just a few and run over the rivets with a rivet brush, then remove application tape, then gently go around the rivets with a gold 3m squegee, very simple very easy,it takes me about 8 hrs to do a full wrap on a 48'trailer including front & back. good luck p.s DO NOT APPLY IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT. hope this helps

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Scott Moyer
Promised Land Pennsylvania
570-595-0310

Posted by Linda Silver Eagle (Member # 274) on :

If you decide to use Dave Grundy's method, (hinge from center and apply side to side) make sure you don't let it slip vertically.

I would agree with Tyler, (hinge from top) and the otheers, dry is the best way over rivets. You may have to poke a tiny hole to let air escape as you push it around the rivets and out, and make sure you watch your step on the ladder(s.)

Sun will turn the vinyl into melted bubble gum type substance. The glare will mess with your brain.

It really is quite easy to do this. Just think of getting on a horse, sure it's bigger than you, but what a rush when you dismount...you did it! (not to mention the wind in your hair whilst up there!)

Good luck!

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PEACE SIGNS
Big on Murals and Tight on Camera Ready!

"With every breath, we have a choice." --Linda Silver Eagle
Georgia, USA

Posted by Mike Pipes (Member # 1573) on :

I wouldnt waste the time to pull rivets out, even if they were the kind you can take out easily (doesnt that make 'em screws, and not rivets??)

Go right over the rivets like they arent even there.

I like using clear transfer tape on jobs like this because the tape stretches along with the vinyl which makes smoothing out the rivets much easier. If the graphic has paper tape on it, I'd take it off at this point.

Poke a couple holes around the base of the rivet then use your squeegee to flatten the "tent" and press the vinyl right to the base of the rivet.

You can also use a rivet brush to do the same thing.

The last big monster I did like this was a 6'x32' logo on both sides of a 53' semi trailer. Applied it all dry without a hitch.

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Mike Pipes
Digital Illusion Custom Graphics
Lake Havasu City, AZ
http://www.stickerpimp.com

Posted by Pierre St.Marie (Member # 1462) on :

Rosemary and Latigo do all of the 48' to 60' trailers for Coors here in the valley. They're all full coverage appliques. NEVER WET! Rivets every 6 inches and corregation top to bottom. They also never "hinge". The panels are typically 7' high and 6' wide. they allow for a 1/4" overlap. They work top to bottom. Each trailer pays $1,200 and they haven't lost one yet.

Posted by Bruce Evans (Member # 44) on :

I've mentioned this tip a few times but doubt anybody's really tried it. Apply a strip of velcro(fuzzy end), to the edge of a squegee. When your getting near a rivet, flip over your squegee to the velcro end and you'll go right over the rivet much easier that you would with the hard end. The hard end tends to catch and start you heading towards creasing it.

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Bruce Evans
Chromark Design-A-Sign
Covina , CA
bruce@chromark.net

Posted by Linda Silver Eagle (Member # 274) on :

kewl idea! I used to use a shop rag (clean and dry of course) the cleanest apps i've seen were to just smack it up there and smooth out the rivets...but until then ignore them...the giant screws were a pain tho.

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PEACE SIGNS
Big on Murals and Tight on Camera Ready!

"With every breath, we have a choice." --Linda Silver Eagle
Georgia, USA

Posted by Dave Grundy (Member # 103) on :

Hi Linda!..ya mis-read what I posted. I didn't say center hinge.

Posted by John Deaton (Member # 925) on :

Thanks to everyone for all the info. I
don't see how I can go wrong now. BLess your hearts.

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John Deaton III
Deaton Design
109 N. Cumberland Ave.,Harlan, Ky. 40831 606-573-9101

john@deatondesigns.com
www.deatondesigns.com
"Don't tailgate, or I'll flick a booger on your windshield."-Larry Richmond, 11th grade english class.

Posted by Dave Draper (Member # 102) on :

John,

Your post didn't mention if the graphics had application tape over them or not. If they do have application tape on them, do it dry!
If you want more handeling control, then add more application tape over the top of their application tape. several layers will make the graphic very stiff and manageable.

When doing a large graphic there are several more "tips and tricks" than mentioned above.

For instance: Are there seams in the truck where one piece of aluminum overlaps another?
If so, you can pre-cut your graphic to fit each panel. This makes it easier to handel (since you have to to make a cut along the seam anyway.)

Attach the graphic at the top and pull it tight across the surface, and you might need some extra hands to keep it stretched tight while squeegee downward forcing the air out the bottom. Pretend there are no rivits.

Once the graphic is in place, work any remaining air to the closest rivit, pin pop air pockets and shrink the vinyl around each rivit with a heat gun....not a blow torch, just in case the truck has a gas leak and you set it on fire and kill yourself.

hope this extra advice helps!

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Draper The Signmaker
Bloomington Illinois USA

Get To A Letterhead
Meet This Summer! See
you there!
309-828-7110
drapersigns@hotmail.com
Draper_Dave on mIRC chat

Posted by roger bailey (Member # 556) on :

All I can say is, read the final post/responce from Tom Hartell "hey Rapid Roger". Tom was cool enough to get back to us AFTER the application !!

Roger

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Roger Bailey
Rapid Tac Incorporated
Waikoloa, Hawaii

Posted by Linda Silver Eagle (Member # 274) on :

Yo Dave,

Pardon me.

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PEACE SIGNS
Big on Murals and Tight on Camera Ready!

"With every breath, we have a choice." --Linda Silver Eagle
Georgia, USA

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