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:: Scooter Marriner ::
:: Coyote Signs ::
:: San Francisco ::
:: don't blame me... i'm just a beginner
::
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Gary&Dawn Hoopes
SignCountry
Overland Park, Ks.
913 831-1152
You could hand letter clear vinyl then cut a contour around it with an X-acto, apply the premask then apply to the doors, if you dont have a vinyl cutter.
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Mike Pipes
Digital Illusion Custom Graphics
Lake Havasu City, AZ
http://www.stickerpimp.com
i do have a vinyl cutter - do i cut/weed and then paint? or apply and then paint? is there a problem with the tape pulling the paint up?
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:: Scooter Marriner ::
:: Coyote Signs ::
:: San Francisco ::
:: don't blame me... i'm just a beginner
::
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PKing is
Pat King of
King Sign Design in
McCalla,Alabama
The Professor of
SIGNOLOGY
Also let them know that after a few years the paint will have a "ghost" image that is NOT your resposibility.
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Designing... it's like an itch in the brain... an itch you can't scratch, that if you can figure out how to scratch it, it just itchs more
http://www.slamgraphics.com
Rochester, N.Y.
mark@slamgraphics.com
The only times I've ever had paint lift off the vinyl is when I was first starting out trying to put paint on vinyl.
Nowadays, I actually keep a box of 1500 grit sandpaper next to my cutter and I literally sand the vinyl before running it through the cutter. Get a good scuff on it.
I scuff before cutting to avoid lifting the edges and getting vinyl dust/grit on the adhesive.
After cutting, I use Denatured Alcohol to prep the surface. The DA removes fingerprints, dust, dirt, any other oils and evaporates as quickly as you can wipe it on. I've also noticed that the DA leaves a dull (possibly etched?) surface behind. Try it on non-scuffed vinyl and you might see what I mean.
Now the vinyl is prepped and clean (took me longer to type that than it does to prep the vinyl.. hehe) and I use pretty much any paint, including waterbased acrylics, which I have never had any problems with lifting.
I start with a very light coat, let that dry, then come back with a heavier coat until the desired coverage is achieved.
Then I clearcoat with either FrogJuice or Krylon Crystal Clear, and sometimes the aerosol clearcoats you can find at any auto parts store.
Frogjuice seems to yield more gloss with less material, and minimal "welding" the vinyl back together.
I weed as soon as it's dry to touch. It's still wet underneath but that makes it easier to weed without welding or peeling the edges of the paint up.
Then I like to give it two or three days to cure, just to be absolutely sure it'll be OK to apply premask and ship out. Most everything I do is shipped out so I dont try to rush painted/airbrushed jobs, and I let the customer know up front it's gonna take a few extra days as a precaution.
If you use screenprinting inks for vinyls, that stuff dries completely in minutes.. in fact.. I dont know why I haven't already bought more.. I got white ink for doing highlights and it works out great.
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Mike Pipes
Digital Illusion Custom Graphics
Lake Havasu City, AZ
http://www.stickerpimp.com
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Dave Sherby
"Sandman"
SherWood Sign & Graphic Design
Crystal Falls, MI 49920
906-875-6201
ICQ: 21604027
sherwood@up.net
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:: Scooter Marriner ::
:: Coyote Signs ::
:: San Francisco ::
:: don't blame me... i'm just a beginner
::