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Eric Patzer
A.S.A.P. Design
Lafayette, CO
epatzer@earthlink.net
I know thet Mark M. did a nice little explanation, with a diagram, that illustrates this method. Maybe he can post a link to that site.
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Dave Grundy
AKA "applicator" on mIRC
"stickin' sticky stuff to valuable vessels and vehicles!"
in Granton, Ontario, Canada
1-519-225-2634
dave.grundy@quadro.net
www.quadro.net/~shirley
I create triangles on either side of my color graphic.
When I cut each color out, I also cut out the triangles. These are my registration marks.
When I premask, I cut out all the triangles right through the backing paper on all the colors except the first layer to go on.
Now when I install my first layer, my registration marks are there. For every other color, it's a no brainer for positioning.
Something to bear in mind though, some vinyls shrink more after being cut. For example, when I set up firetruck lettering, the 2mil black background doesn't shrink as much as the reflective gold I layer on top. So when you go to install, sometimes the triangles are abit 'short' for the top layer. For long lengths, it's best to add a center triangle or more so you can cut up your color on top for perfect registration.
No problem with the same kind of vinyl for multi color though. Works great.
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Graphic Impact
Abbotsford, BC, Canada
gisigns@sprint.ca
I use Mactac clear application tape, most of the time on smaller stuff I judge it by eye on larger stuff I cut registration squares, and it goes really fast, the nice thing with a plastic clear, I mean that you can really see through is that its quite rigid so if you are applying a large graphic like 6-7ft I fold it back on itself apply on my marks fold it out, you can always pull it up quickly to readjust, try doing that with paper, and its down, I work o my own alot and I am always doing multicoloured jobs like this, and have very few cock-ups, I have Transfer-rite paper here for customers who apply wet, and R-Tape "structured clear which conforms better to uneven surfaces.
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Henry Barker #1924
akaKaftan
SignCraft AB
Stockholm, Sweden.
A little bit of England in a corner of Stockholm
www.signcraft.se
info@signcraft.se
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Ryan Ursta
Ursta Graphics
27 West Shenango St.
Sharpsville Pa. 16150
Call: 724•962•2206
"letters of Recommendation"
Known as "Ugraph" on mirc
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Eric Patzer
A.S.A.P. Design
Lafayette, CO
epatzer@earthlink.net
Roger
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Roger Bailey
Rapid Tac Incorporated
Waikoloa, Hawaii
Good Luck!!!
Raven/2001
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Raven/2000
Airbrushed by Raven
Lower sackville N.S.
deveausdiscovery@sprint.ca
When I create the artwork, I draw a rectangle around the perimeter of the artwork. This is my registration box and also serves as a nice weed border.
I put each color on its own layer in CorelDRAW and the registration box goes on its own layer.
When I cut each color, I just set the other layers to not print. Only the current color and registration box layers are set to print.
I cut each color and weed.
I tape the bottom layer to the table, then register the next layer on top, then the next. The only hinge I use is the one on the very top layer, the other layers are simply taped to the table around the perimeters.
The top layer has the premask, I use clear R-Tape.
I lift the first layer, peel off the liner then squeegee it over the next layer. Then I lift the new double layer, peel off the liner, then squeegee that down.
WHen I hinge the top layer, I use two hinge locations depending on the size.
ANything that's under 4 feet long or so, I put the hinge at the end. Anything larger than that, I put the hinge in the middle. The smaller stuff is more manageable, and the larger stuff gets hinged in the middle to reduce the chance of pulling the graphic off-registration.
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Mike Pipes
-----trapped in a box with a computer and a slice of cheese-----