I am going to build a new worktable, any suggestions as to the size. Also how tall will stop the aching back problem?
------------------ Ken Morse Jamn Graphics Santa Cruz, CA
Posted by Michael Boone (Member # 308) on :
Ken, I made myself a new table last year especially for a big redwood sign. The table is 4x 8....top is 3/4 flake board over 8' 2x4's every foot.This feature makes the table very rigid.We glued a 4x8 blank of redwood,2 layers in thickness on this table...we clamped the redwood to itself and to the table... It has wheels which make it easy to move...but the wheels dont have brakes.This is a mistake.I will find wheels with stops on em. I also have a big easel...4x24'...with a lightup section in it..I found a 4x5 piece of 3/4 plexiglass(heavy!!!)and incorporated it in the easel.Since the easel is set up on a very steep angle....asembly of multicolored graphics is a pain..I would prefer to have the liteup section of my work area in a horizontal situation..I think I may rework the table to accomodate the plexi... In addition to my easel..I have 3- 6' drafting tables end to end which can lay flat or be angled up to 90 degrees.In the flat position they make a great weeding table..in upright..I use em for easel number 2..since I do quite a few banners... I let my work be my guide for what equipment I need....it works well for me... Table height is critical for avoiding backache...mine is 37"..Im 6'0"..It kinda high...but I find it avoids back trouble...One note here...ya gotta watch yer boyish figure..or your bellybaggage will bump into such a high table top... Make sure to make whatever you do...sturdy enough...
Ken I got hold of a hydraulic draughting table for $25.00 put new seals in the hydraulics and put an 8 by 4 top on it laminated it give me me a range of adjustment from vertical to horizontal and the height as I said is hydraulically adjustable according to our hydraulic supplier it is very similar to the old hydraulic table they used to use for surjey except these were built as draughting tables so useful and cheap and not hard on the back
------------------ Ian Wilson Signmaker Toowoomba City Council Cnr Anzac Ave & Stephen st Toowoomba Queensland Australia may all your toubles be little ones The man that never make a mistake never makes anything
Posted by old paint (Member # 549) on :
to get a table that is the right higth for you......stand straight up, hold arms to sides,bend elbows till they are at a 90 degree angle with you body, measure from elbow to floor....and make table top 4-6" less...this will stop the back ache of leaning over....the step van i have the counter in it is 35 1/2", the table i have in the house is 40".....like the house table better...and iam 5'11"
------------------ joe pribish-A SIGN MINT 2811 longleaf Dr. pensacola, fl 32526 850-944-5060 BEWARE THE TRUTH.....YOU MAY NOT LIKE WHAT YOU FIND
Posted by Brian Keence (Member # 1867) on :
Ken,
The rule of thumb I've used is wrist high with your arms hanging down. Alucabond makes a very nice top when used over heavy plywood. Steel is also nice if you do alot of magnetic sheeting work.
HTH
------------------ Brian Keence K&B Signs 2220 Lake Tekawitha Rd Pacific, MO. 63069 (636) 257-3679 brian@kbsigns.com ******************** It's clear as mud now!
Posted by Tony McDonald (Member # 1158) on :
I've got 2-4x8 tables and 1-4x16. They are all set a kitchen countertop height. I'm 5'9" and it's just right except when I need to reach the back of the table. I keep a milk crate around just for this purpose. Also it's the right height for a barstool since its counter height so I can sit down. I used 2x6 for legs, 2x4 for the framing and 3/4" plywood for the top with a 4x8 cutting mat. Also made a shelf underneath for storage and have my release tape mounted on one end. The 16' is mounted to the wall and is really solid.
------------------ When good things happen...that must be a sign!! Tony McDonald DBA-Ace Graphics & Printing P.O. Box 91 Camdenton, MO. USA (573) 346-6696 <daddyo@advertisnet.com> <tony@brownbeverage.com>
Posted by Louis A Lazarus (Member # 763) on :
Ken...we've got a 4 X 10 X 3/4 plywood table covered with 12 gauge sheet metal. The table is hinged to a wall and sets at a 45 degree (or so) angle. The angle is adjustable. We have some 1" X 2" X 1/2" heavy duty magnets (about 40 of them) that hold the vinyl in place. We have an extruded aluminum edge on the top and bottom of the table that can be used as a ledge or guide for cutting or drawing horizontal lines. The sheet metal is glued to the plywood with contact cement so that the surface is very flat. We use this table for weedding, layouts, applying and generally for anything that works. One thing we don't have is backaches. How anybody can weed bent over a flat table is beyond me. I hope this helps. You will never have a backache and always have two free hands...
------------------ Louis A. Lazarus Milt's Sign Service, Inc. 20 So. Linden Ave. #5B 650-588-0490 fontking1a@aol.com
Posted by Dave Grundy (Member # 103) on :
Thanks for the info Guys!!!!.. I am gonna clamp some extensions on one of my tables and check out the effect on my back. I can't seem to work at the existing height for any more than a few minutes without my back complaining. For me, it looks like 44" is ideal height. I'm 6'2"
------------------ Dave Grundy AKA "applicator" on mIRC "stickin' sticky stuff to valuable vessels and vehicles!" in Granton, Ontario, Canada 1-519-225-2634 dave.grundy@quadro.net www.quadro.net/~shirley
Posted by Kathy Joiner (Member # 1814) on :
My vinyl shop table is 4'x8' at 36 5/8" high. The one out in the big shop where I do heavier work is 40" high. I like that height better. I use a drafting stool inside, but in the big shop I use a 55 gal drum (no joke) I don't get to sit much out there. I wish it were 24' long so I could just keep pushing things out of the way instead of cleaning it all day. Oh well, if I had that wish it would take me an extra hour to clean up.
------------------ Kathy Joiner River Road Graphics 41628 River Road Ponchatoula, La.70454 PH. (504)386-3313 casey@i-55.com
