The Letterville BullBoard: An unusual striping job, help needed.

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Posted by Graham Hodge (Member # 168) on :

Happy New Millenium all!
I have been asked to apply half and one inch yellow stripes to a large 'carpet' which measures 18 x 70 feet. The material appears to be a synthetic with a low pile similar to a felt that might be used for indoor bowls. This material however is constantly in filtered water as part of a research facility. There are about about 20 stripes down the full length which are faded and need repainting.
This is a weird one, I wouldn't have a clue how to go about it. If anyone can offer advice as to how to mask the stripes, what paint to use and what tecnique to use, I would be very grateful.

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Gray

Posted by Dave Draper (Member # 102) on :

Gary,

I got an idea if the carpet is dry, and not submerged in water.

Tape off your stripe with masking tape and spray it with a can white primer then yellow spray paint.

If masking tape wont work, then lay a straight edge down and put a weight on it and proceed to spray paint the stripe along the straight edge. The straight edge can be anything: yard stick, plastic, cardstock

I would use a white primer spray paint first then go back over the top of the primer with yellow. Ther reason for the primer is because it will stick better and block out the background color. Yellow wont block out any color....except yellow....hahahahah
its the worst.

If you really want to get guttsy...use a strip of yellow high performance vinyl and a heat gun. You can melt the vinyl right into the carpet. You will have to protect the rest of the carpet from melting so you will have to lay down a thick non flamable substrate on each side of your stripe and move it along as you heat it down.

Test the vinyl / carpet heat method on some sample carpet strip from the local carpet store.

Test the method you want to use out in the privacy of your own shop so you don't look like an idiot in front of your customer should the idea not work. ( Ive been there, done that )

Have fun!

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Draper The Signmaker
Bloomington Illinois USA
Stop in and visit a while!
309-828-7110
signman@davesworld.net
Raptorman or Draper_Dave on mIRC chat

Posted by Badges2 (Member # 1128) on :

Hi Gray
Felt can be successfully screenprinted and this could be the technique to employ for this job. The simplest way to make a stencil for this job would be apply a cheap vinyl directly to the bottom (substrate)side of the screen. I would print the lines about 2 to 3 feet long with a water based screen ink with a "Cold Cure" Catalyst added. Screen mesh would be a very course 23T.
Have at least one assistant to hold the screen in place while you pull the ink, probably about 3 strokes would be needed to get a good solid coverage. Then quickly use an electric paint stripper/hair dryer type heat gun about 1 inch away from the ink to snap it touch dry (about 30 to 60 seconds should do it). Keep the heat gun moving and just dry the bit where the screen will overlap for the next print. Water based inks will dry in the screen very quickly and block it up so planning and organising for speed is the secret. Come back later when you have washed up and heat dry the rest of it or have an assistant following you with the dryer. With a catalist in the ink manufacturers recomendation is to allow 7 days for full water resistant colourfastness.

Do not attack this job untill you can get a sample piece of the same material (carpet) and then experiment with test prints on it untill you develop a satisfactory technique. There are many variables with screen printing (Ink viscosity & opacity, Squeege (use a soft rubber one) hardness, pressure, angle, & number of strokes, Screen mesh count, tension & offset distance.) Also after each print "flood" the screen i.e. squeege a layer of ink onto the screen to fill the mesh with ink.

Finally when you are happy with your test prints leave for 7 days and then leave a sample piece soaking in water for a week to satisfy yourself and your client that the work will be up to the standard required.

This is a very brief description but if you decide to go ahead with it contact me and I will be happy to assist you with further information.

I have never printed a job quite like what you describe but I can assure you that felt will print very successfully.

Just reading your post again and you mention that it is a synthetic material. It would be advisable to add a sythetic addative to the ink also. The ink specification sheets will tell you the correct proporions to use.

If you plan it correctly and have a couple of assistants to work with you and everything is marked out and you practice on scap before you hit the real thing you should be able to print the whole job without too much trouble. A bit of time and motion study would be required to estimate the labour time.

Let me know if you intend to give it a go.

Best of luck

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Badges2 is Bob Wright from Bundy Badges Screenprinting & Dad to Katie (Kookaburra) located in Bundaberg Queensland Australia
(The land of OZ)

[This message has been edited by Badges2 (edited January 02, 2001).]

Posted by Graham Hodge (Member # 168) on :

Thanks all for the help, 3 good suggestions. The screen printing sounds good Bob but we don't screen print and I'm unfamiliar with the process. The vinyl might be worth a try.
One thing for sure, I don't fancy a couple of days on my knees, what with a bit of the old 'arf'rightis' in the legs. But, I'll give it a go.

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Gray Hodge
celtman@ireland.com
Cam River Signs
Somerset, Tasmania,
Down Under

Posted by David Fisher (Member # 107) on :

Gray,
Depending on how long the stripes are and how much time you have to dry it out etc, it might be worth thinking about doing it the way the linmarking guys do it.
Just lay a couple of strips of sheetmetal or something stiff down as your mask and spray with screen ink or whatever you decide is the best medium for the job?
Just a thought.
David

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D.A. & P.M. Fisher Signwriting
Brisbane Australia
da_pmf@yahoo.com

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