I'm getting ready to do 2 projects that I haven't tried beforem. Alumalite to Alumilite painted surfaces, and the other foam board to Alumalite. After using polyurethane glue (like Gorilla type) to glue redwood together, I found that you can take a putty knife and pop or shear the residuals off without much resistance. Even on a porous concrete floor. I am planning a large 2x8 oval foam board application to a 5x8 alumalite panel this week. I was wondering what I should be using? I am planning on some connection through the alumalite for some connection. The alumlite to alumalite question is just to build some mild dimension to a flat...Thanks, Bronzeo
------------------ Jack Davis 1410 Main St Joplin, MO 64801 www.imagemakerart.com bronzeo@prodigy.net http://www.imagemakerart.com
Posted by Larry Elliott (Member # 263) on :
We've used Bondo for several years to bond painted aluminum surfaces together and never had a failure. Just scuff the paint where you apply the Bondo to get a good bond, you don't have to cover the whole surface just a little spot every few inches. You may want to seal the perimeter with a paintable silicone caulk to keep out moisture if its in an area subject to freeze. Silicone by itself is a very good adhesive for most painted surfaces, try a sample and let it set for at least 24 hours to check adhesion. On the 'foam to aluminum' I would also use Bondo and a few screws through the back and then seal with a paintable caulk.
------------------ Larry
Elliott Design McLemoresville, Tn.
If you can't find the time to do it right, where gonna find the time to do it over?
Posted by Pierre St.Marie (Member # 1462) on :
Hi, Jack.......We have used the PB240 to bond Alumalite copy to an Alumalite substrata and Dibond to Dibond. The 240 is more aggressive than Gorilla snot. To insure the bond, we drilled a bunch of SURFACE holes where the Aluma copy was overlaid on the Aluma substrata. It makes a BIG difference when you sand the surfaces before bonding. It's been up in the air for two years. The holes were obviously only drilled through the first layer of aluminum. Forgot to mention that we've found Dibond backing on PB is a much better backing than Alumalite. Same approach.....drill a bunch of "surface" breaks in the Dibond, just not all the way through. THis is a common practice with us when cutting cursive copy out of PB. Back it with Dibond and it's easier to handle the delicate strokes.
------------------ St.Marie Graphics & Makin' Tracks Sound Studio Kalispell, Montana stmariegraphics@centurytel.net http://www.stmariegraphics.com 800 735-8026 We're chiseling every day of the week! :^)
[This message has been edited by pierre (edited August 07, 2000).]
Posted by Jack Davis (Member # 1408) on :
One more question on this......Would you sand through the aluminum or just rough the paint. Aluminum tends to corrode around some things and be protected by others. Thanx
------------------ Jack Davis 1410 Main St Joplin, MO 64801 www.imagemakerart.com bronzeo@prodigy.net http://www.imagemakerart.com
Posted by Pierre St.Marie (Member # 1462) on :
Sand only.
------------------ St.Marie Graphics & Makin' Tracks Sound Studio Kalispell, Montana stmariegraphics@centurytel.net http://www.stmariegraphics.com 800 735-8026 We're chiseling every day of the week! :^)
Posted by Brian Stoddard (Member # 39) on :
for aluminum to aluminum use either a 2 part epoxy like Lords adhesive or if a slight gap dos not matter use a very high bond tape for aluminum. I have used both and they end up impossible to seperate! sand or grind through the paint to bare aluminum. For attaching to HDU, drill out area in foam larger than bolt then insert head of bolt into the holes filled with Gorilla glue or the PB stuff. after it cures you can bolt it to your aluminum.
------------------ Brian Stoddard Expressions Signs A few puddles east of Seattle
