This is topic Gluing HDU in forum Old Archives at The Letterville BullBoard.


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Posted by Brad Funk (Member # 1351) on :
 
Hey all in the past we have used a 2 part epoxy to glue together HDU. We have a 4'x10' sandblasted hdu sign to do and are considering gluing two pieces instead of waiting weeks for a full 4x10. Is there a glue/epoxy that blast well. When we use epoxy there is always epoxy left unblasted and takes some extra effort to scrape it away. Thanks for any replies.

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Brad Funk
Artisan Signs
Phoenix, AZ
www.artisan-signs.com

We proudly support this site!


 

Posted by Pierre St.Marie (Member # 1462) on :
 
The only one you can absolutely depend on is the specific made for HDU. Precision Board PB240. Check the suppliers board or email me. I sell it wholesale.

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St.Marie Graphics
& Makin' Tracks Sound Studio
Kalispell, Montana
stmariegraphics@centurytel.net http://www.stmariegraphics.com
We're chiseling every day of the week! :^)


 

Posted by Joe Rees (Member # 211) on :
 
Hi Brad, Gorilla Glue, PB Bond, or Polyurethane Glue from the builders supply are essentially the same product in my experience. They expand into a foamy, slightly spongy, seam when dry, that is less dense than the material around it - but at the same time, a bit more 'rubbery'. This can be a pain for carving, but I bet it would blast great.

Put the glue on one surface and spread it around with a squeege to cover the entire surface. Mist the other surface with plain water in a spray bottle, and mash them together. You don't want to clamp them so tight together that you squeeze all the glue out of the seam - but you do need to hold them with something, or as the glue foams, it can push the pieces apart, making the seam much thicker than it needs to be.

Let us know how it blasts eh?

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Joe Rees
Cape Craft Signs
(Cape Cod, MA)
http://www.capecraft.com
http://www.dave-joe-show.com
e-mail: joerees@capecraft.com


 

Posted by Pierre St.Marie (Member # 1462) on :
 
Make sure the PB Bond 240 is spread THIN!! It really expands.

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St.Marie Graphics
& Makin' Tracks Sound Studio
Kalispell, Montana
stmariegraphics@centurytel.net http://www.stmariegraphics.com
We're chiseling every day of the week! :^)


 

Posted by Daniel R. Perez (Member # 1585) on :
 
Hey AZ,
I don't know what HDU is, but I've often glued my redwood signs together using DAP Weldwood Plastic Resin. It's a powder mixed 5 parts powder and 2 parts water. I've had to knock off a few little chunks but nothing serious. You can get it at places like Home Depot or Home Base. Plus, it's pretty inexpensive...have blast.

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There is nothing new under the sun. What will be has already been and what has been will be again.
Daniel R. Perez
Daniez Dzines
Fresno, CA
daniez@netzero.net

[This message has been edited by Daniez (edited July 16, 2000).]
 

Posted by Henry Barker (Member # 174) on :
 
Hi there!

I am sure PB Bond is great as its made for the stuff like Joe I also use other types of polyurethane glue, it does leave a ridge after blasting but we just work it away afterwards. I also have been using 3M's 2216 Construction 2part adhesive as recomended by Sign-Foam, although 2216 comes in 2 toothpaste sixed tubes, we use another version 3m's DP190 which comes in a cartridege that goes in a dispenser gun with blending nozzles which you change each time you use, there is much less waste you apply what you want to use and put it where you want to use it!

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Henry Barker #1924
akaKaftan
SignCraft AB
Stockholm, Sweden.
A little bit of England in a corner of Stockholm
www.signcraft.se
info@signcraft.se


 

Posted by Dave Sherby (Member # 698) on :
 
I've used Gorilla Glue and epoxy on two 5' by 12' HDU signs. The epoxy left a much higher ridge after blasting and was harder to "knock" down.

I like the poly glue better which I believe is about the same stuff Pierre is talking about. I spread a thin coat on one panel, mist the other edge with water, butt them up and just "toe nail" them together with deck screws. A piece of wax paper on your bench under the seam keeps the sign from being glued to your bench. What expands out underneath is quite flat and peels away fairly easily with a chisel.

Blasting thru a Grain Fraim leaves the seam looking like one of the redwood simulated grains so it needs very littel touch up. Without the Grain Fraim I've had good luck knocking off the seam with a small rotary grinder like a dremmel tool with a burr or rotary file bit. The glue grinds down very quickly and with a real small burr you can duplicate the little dimples along the seam so that it becomes invisible from a few feet away.

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Dave Sherby
"Sandman"
SherWood Sign & Graphic Design
Crystal Falls, MI 49920
906-875-6201
ICQ: 21604027
sherwood@up.net


 

Posted by Brad Funk (Member # 1351) on :
 
Thanks for the replies guys

------------------
Brad Funk
Artisan Signs
Phoenix, AZ
www.artisan-signs.com

We proudly support this site!


 



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