What surface is the most popular for homebuilt wall easels???? I move into my new shop on Sept. 1st and have a huge wall that I want to build an easel on.
It has to be repaintable, able to hold staples and last. Also, come in 4'x8'min sheets.
Thanks for the help!!!!!!!!
------------------ Troy Haas "Metal_Leg" on mIRC
SAM Signs 812-437-5367 Evansville,Indiana
Posted by Rick Sacks (Member # 379) on :
Troy, I think the skin would depend on the type work you produce. I like Upson board for the part of the bench where we do cards, so we can use push pins to keep adjusting the placement. We have sixteen feet covered with metal and alot of magnets for paper banners adn patterns, and have it set up with spring clamps along the top to hang heavier banners. Realistically, we do very few cards or paper banners any more. Most patterns are done with the Graphtec plotter.This means a particle board skin with some shellac on it will work fine.
------------------ The SignShop Mendocino, California "Where the Redwoods meet the Surf"
Posted by Brad Farha (Member # 931) on :
Troy, for an easel I just have regular 2x6 boards attached to a plate at the ceiling, with a series of 1.125" holes running every foot in which I place 1" dowels to hold materials. Usually I keep some pieces of alumalite on the easel that I will clamp banners to with some of those hand-held spring clamps. The 2x6 boards are 32" apart (OC) to accomodate anything 3' wide or larger. For smaller signs, I use a sheet of 18mm PVC laid flat on fold-up saw horses that can be taken down when I need the space for something else. For weeding/masking I use some sheets of 3mm PVC on my tables to absorb the cutting. I buy the PVC from my supplier when they have some damaged sheets that they can't sell at regular price, and get them for practically nothing.
A really trick way to build an adjustable easel is to use electric garage door hardware. You can get used, just get the remote so you can move it up and down. mount the easel to that, make it as big as possible, for large banners, maybe 16' to 24' or more if you have that much room. I just build a frame, then mount used mdo to it. you can screw to it or staple. It's a good idea to paint it white then using a black sharpie markout a grid every 6 inches, helps to get your banners straight and also for paper patterns.
------------------ Robert Thomas Creative Signs In Beautiful Naples, Fl.
If your making it really big why not make different surfaces for different situations? like a section covered in steel to stick magnets to, next section covered with graph paper and a sheet of clear acrylic, put a light box in the next section, etc.
Hey Troy, Using 4'x 8' for a basic measurement, you can buy acoustical sound dead board and make your easel to any size you want. It takes staples, pushpins etc... I really like your idea Robert with the remote thingy.
------------------ There is nothing new under the sun. What will be has already been and has been will be again. Daniel R. Perez Daniez Dzines Fresno, CA daniez@netzero.net
Posted by Mike Languein (Member # 319) on :
I use sheet steel and I get tool holder magnets and cut them down into sections of threes and ones - they hold vinyl banners really well, even big ones.
If you're sold on using staples I'd go with Upson Board, if you can get it. The sound proof stuff that comes in 1/2 inch thich sheets is great for bulletin boards and push pins, but I don't think it would hold much tension with staples.
------------------ "If it isn't fun, why do it?" Signmike@aol.com Mike Languein Doctor of Letters BS, MS, PhD ___________________
You know what BS is, MS is More of the Same, and it's Piled Higher and Deeper here
Posted by Jerry Starpoli (Member # 1559) on :
We use the design from Bob Fitzgerald's "Practical Sign Shop Operation" through Signs of the Times from the 50's. It may be in reprint. The 'Hobo" table is incredible in that you can roll it around, adjust the angle and join many together. If you are interested, e-mail me and I will get the plans copied and off to you. The surface we use is Homasote. You can pin it, cut against it for years, paint it, drill it etc.I think it is just great and very inexpensive.
------------------ Pat Swerna Old Time Carny Painter...on the road
Posted by Cam Bortz (Member # 55) on :
We have a fixed wall bench for patterns, with a homasote surface for pouncing (yup, still use a wheel) pushpins, whatever. It is built on triangular frames to stand out from the wall and angles back about 15 degrees. Above the working surface is a steel pipe that runs the length of the bench; to hold rolls of pattern paper. The paper can then be pulled straight down over the work suface, making it very convenient for patterns and sketches.
For actual lettering of signboards I have a big freestanding easel. It's 3' wide x 8'high, with 2x4 verticals joined by 1x4 horizontals, then hinged at the top, making it a big A frame. The verticals have holes drilled every three inches for pegs, I use big landscape spikes. I also have a scrap of MDO 3'long x 3" wide with a short stop piece under each end. This rests on the spikes to make a shelf, and the stops keep it from slipping off one side or another. Because the center of the frame is open, I have a third 1x4 vertical in the center for signs smaller than 3' wide. It is an incredibly simple and versatile easel. I keep a piece of sheet metal around that I can stand on it, to do magnetics (when I absolutely have to!) and have balanced signs as long as 20' on it. Because it's an A frame, it's moveable and two-sided; you can have a large sign on both sides of it and work on them without having to hump them on and off. If my explaination isn't clear and you want to know more, E-mail me and I'll draw you some plans.
------------------ "A wise man concerns himself with the truth, not with what people believe." - Aristotle
When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Raoul Duke (Hunter S. Thompson)
Cam Finest Kind Signs 256 S. Broad St. Pawcatuck, Ct. 06379 "Award winning Signs since 1988"
