We sometimes purchase sign boxes from wholesalers. However it sometimes takes over a week just to get a quote, another 5-6 weeks to get the boxes. So we are going to build them ourselves. We are going to use SignComp brand extrusions to start with. Does anyone have any suggestions for what kind of equipment we'll need. ie. radial arm saw (size?), testing equipment, etc. We already do lots of plexi and lexan faces, so that's not a problem. We have a good construction shop, spray booth and bucket truck as well. Any hints or reference materials would be appreciated.
The major hurdle for most shops wanting to construct their own sign cabinets is getting Underwriters Laboratory approval. I don't recall the name of the Canadian equivalant of UL.
I'm not sure about Canadian regulations, but here in the US, almost every area requires that all electric signs have a "UL approved" sticker attached to them. Getting UL authority to sticker your own signs is a rather complicated and expensive process. It's very hard to justify the cost, unless you are making a lot of electric signs.
Jerry Mathel Jerry Mathel Signs Grants Pass, Oregon signs@grantspass.com
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Posted by Dennis Veenema (Member # 833) on :
Hi Duncan. Why SignComp? Use Signpro instead. It's more reasonable in price and we find it easier to use. It's also Canadian made. There are lots of suppliers that handle it. As far as the radial arm saw that's fine, although I would recomend a sliding compound mitre saw. They made the cleanest cuts. You dont't have to worry about testing equipment, and don't worry about CSA approval. Unless you do a huge volume CSA is costly. I believe that Alberta is the same as Ontario with inspections. Contact whoever does electrical inspections they can set you up for individual cabinet inspections. I'm also pretty sure that you can have a private certified company do your inspections as well.
------------------ Dennis Veenema The Sign Shop Dresden, Ont. "We Sign Everything"
Posted by Mike Duncan (Member # 316) on :
Duncan, Nice name by the way! I think what Jerry is talking about is probably CSA approval in Canada. In the USA, UL I believe charges about $600-900 for the right to make electric signs. You must build a few that they inspect in your shop and give you the OK, and then they come by quarterly to inspect and charge you about $65.00 an hour to do that. As far as equipment, a really good tight 15" or larger radial arm saw with a carbide blade and some good holddowns is really nice to have. An aluminum welder of some sort, either TIG or MIG will also help, unless you use angle and just bolt them together. You also will need a punch for putting in the lampholders in the raceway, you probably have most of the other equipment, beings you are a sign shop. Another nice piece of equipment is a LT130 Gas Lamp/Voltage Tester, see at: http://www.etcon.com/etcon/meters/voltag.html with this you can test the lamps and know if its the lamp when a lamp doesn't light, or the ballast or wiring that's bad, also works great to test neon with as well as sodium, metal halide and mercury vapor lamps. Hope this helps-Good Luck!
------------------ Mike Duncan 2315 H Street Bellingham, WA 98225 eves 360-738-9846 days 360-671-7165 mikeduncan99@home.com $$ Supporter, 1998 & 1999
"Good Luck many times comes disguised as hard work."
Posted by Brad Ferguson (Member # 33) on :
Another good piece of test equipment is the Mark III lamp tester. Press the button while touching its antenna to a lamp. If the lamp is good it will light. Works on neon, too. It's pricey, though, at $145.
Also, if you intend to test output voltage on ballasts, make sure you get a voltmeter that will read up to 1000v DC.
Another little useful item that I have several of is a small lamp about the size of a flashlight battery with an electrode cap on one end that fits into an HO lamp socket. It won't tell you if there is low voltage at a lamp socket, but it will quickly tell you if there is no voltage. And it's cheap. One of mine I found in the bottom of a sign cabinet.
Another thing I like to use, especially when I run lamps vertically, are silicone filled wire nuts. They cost more, but they virtually eliminate shorts from water getting into the splices.
Brad in Arkansas
------------------ Brad Ferguson 4782 West Highway 22 Paris AR 72855 501-963-2642 signbrad@cswnet.com
Posted by Michel Thibodeau (Member # 310) on :
Hi Duncan
I work in a sign shop that makes Extrusions for Flex Face and Plexi or Lexan, I can tell you that the Lumi2000 is a real blow out nice to work with and fast to put togeter there flex face frame as realy simple flex holder so you can install it on the job site if need be, just a blow with a hammer and your set to go. I don`t have there web page URL right know but i can get it for you with the phone number if you would like, Just e-mail me and i will get it for you. There in New Brunsick Canada.
