This is topic Tool Time Series - Reingnited - Band Saws in forum Old Archives at The Letterville BullBoard.


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Posted by Janette Balogh (Member # 192) on :
 
Last year we started a kind of random "Tool Time Series" here on the BB, where at any time, anyone could up and talk about any tool.

I invite more to open up such topics as we all learn from them.

I did a quick search and noticed that we haven't yet touched upon Band Saws.

About 20 some years ago, before I had any clue that I'd be making my bread & butter on signs I got a notion to cut odd shapes out of wood and make things. On my wish list at that time was a band saw, and so I recieved one as a gift. The brand name was Ohio Forge.

To this day I'm still using that saw, but it's driving me a little crazy. The blade keeps slipping off on it, and I seem to break them alot. I'm sure it's an operator problem , but heck ... maybe I'm just ready for a better one? Could that be?

Anyone like to give me some fuel for my fire to buy something better.

My shop is small ... so I don't really need anything all that industrial, but still, I'd like to be armed with some good info before I
go out there and expose myself to all the sales pitches that await me.

In your experiences ... what have you liked best for your needs?

Nettie

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"When Love and Skill Work Together ... Expect a Masterpiece"

Janette Balogh
Sign Studio
in Sunny Florida
jbalogh@earthlink.net
Current Pet Profile - Please send us yours!
http://www.markfair.com/nettie

Start packing and move in! It's just too easy to be a Resident!
Location, Location, Location! It's all right here!
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Posted by FranCisco Vargas (Member # 145) on :
 
Nettie, band saws are great! but if you want to cut down in space, and have something portable, and have a good tool. Get a Worm Drive saw, you can almost cut with it just like a band saw,

I could just see some of the fellows saying this guy is lying west side stories out the east side of his neck!
No but on the bright side I would'nt go anywhere without a worm drive, it is a very Handy Saw! but like any tool it depends how much you use that saw for? In your case maybe the band saw is the tool for you. I don't have a band saw never really use them that much. But I would like a Miter Saw! That I would use more.

Far as your band saw, you just might need to do some adjustments for the blade slipping. well hope this helps.... your pal Cisco

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FranCisco Vargas
aka: Cisco
aka:Traveling Millennium Sign Artist
http://www.franciscovargas.com
Fresno, CA 93703
559 252-0935

"to live life, is to love life, a sign of no life, is a sign of no love"...Cisco 12'98



 

Posted by Robin Sharrard (Member # 388) on :
 
Nettie, I've got a 12 year old floor model that the blade kept comming off and breaking. It was the rubber boot on the upper wheel was cracked and had loosened up from the wheel. I was able to contact the manufacture and purchased a new one. Solved the problem. The shop I'm working in, when times are slow, also has a floor model but its too old to find parts for, so the boss took the old boots off and fasioned some rubber strips out of small bicycle inner tubes and it works great! May need a shorter blade length though. Trial an error sometimes prevale, just stand back when you throw that switch! Good luck! Robin

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Robin Sharrard
Bob's Textile Graphics
Fallon, Nevada
rds@phonewave.net
"Proud $$$ Supporter"
 

Posted by Richard Bustamante (Member # 370) on :
 
Janette,
Ribins right. Try replacing the rubber on those pullies. Sometimes sh*t gets stuck to the rubber and causes the bandsaw blade to veer off the pulley.

Things to look for in bandsaws.
The throat. This is how deep the material can go. And the hight, or how thick the material is. Anyway a good throat size would be around 15", and hight wise, is about 6"

I have a "Delta" with a 15" throat and it can cut material up to 6" thick. I use this saw for cutting any number of things like; plex cut`out lettering, gator faom, and my favorate, cutting down 9" roller covers into three 3" covers.

The bandsaw is one of those tools you can live without, but when you have one, you'll always wonder how you ever did without it.

Hope you can fix it. Nettie

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Richard Bustamante
12646 E. American Ave.
Del Rey, Ca. 93616
e-mail: signwiz@valleyone.net
www.studio-b.net
 

Posted by Robert Salyers (Member # 5) on :
 
I have an old Delta(Milwalkee/Rockwell) Homecraft that cant be beat. This lil Metal/Wood cutting bandsaw is old rugged and will outlast my great grandkids. This saw cuts smooth and true. Like my vehicles, when I find dependable(& true) old tools, I latch onto them. Good post Nettie!

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"What me worry???"---Alfred E. Newman

Robert Salyers
Clearwater, FL
airbrushnow@email.msn.com


http://members.theglobe.com/hotair4



 

Posted by Rick Sacks (Member # 379) on :
 
A light mist of spray adhesive on the wheel under the rubber helped keep the rubber down for us.

We used to get breaking blades when we had one of those compact tabletop models that has three wheels instead of two larger ones. My conclusion was that it was like bending and straightening a wire real fast. The small wheels on those bend the blade rather tightly.

Cisco, I don't know how you cut small letters with your worm drive, but I've seen a local ship builder cut 1/4" aluminum circles with a 30" diameter with a skill 77. He had the blade set real shallow and walked it around. No flat spots either.

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The SignShop
Mendocino, California
"Where the Redwoods meet the Surf"



 

Posted by Dave Sherby (Member # 698) on :
 
I smiled when I saw Rich uses his band saw to cut roller covers. Been there - done that. I even cut a roll of transfer tape down to size with it.

Rick is right. The small wheels on the 3 wheeled saws cause many problems ie. breaking blades, vibration, blade alignment problems.

Band saws are great but take a little maintenance to run top notch. Sawdust can build up on the rubber "tires" so they need to be cleaned once in a while.

Blade tension is important. The wider the blade, the more tension needed otherwise when cutting, the blade can flex in the cutting area, especially in thick woods. You can get a concave or convex cut instead of straight perpendicular cut. This will happen even with proper tension if you feed thick material too fast.

The small wheels and blade guides need to be set properly too. The wheel bearings behind the blade need to be set so that the just miss touching the blade when the band saw is off. That way when the material is fed into the blade, the blade can't be pushed back and change its alignment on the big wheels. The guide blocks also need to just miss touching the blade and be set just behind the teeth. They prevent blade twist. There are guide blocks made now that have a dry lubricant built into them. They are called Cool Blocks and can be set up right against the blade to help it run even more true.

One important thing to look for in a bandsaw is a flat smooth table. Some brands (I know Sears used to this...probaly still do) have a grooved table top. This is strictly to cut costs. Sometimes you will be cutting a material that isn't perfectly flat and you will catch an edge or a corner in a groove, and of course, because of Murphy's Law, you will never have the mistake in the waste side. And a very smooth table helps alot. Any friction between the table and material makes it harder to keep the blade on line.

For most sign applications, motors in the one horsepower range are plenty big enough. I've cut 3 inch hardwood with a 1/8th inch blade with my 3/4 horse.

If you have the opportunity to run the unit before you purchase, do it. The bandsaw should not have any vibration. If it does, pass on it. You'll only be frustrated and not get precise cuts with it.

If anyone is interested, I have circle cutting jig for the band saw thats easy to make and is the best I've seen so far as you don't have to start the blade at the edge of the material. This jig allows you to swing the material into the blade. I'd be happy to send plans to anyone interested. An old time woodworker drew it out for me and I'm sure glad he had those letterhead tendencies of sharing information.

My personal choice is the Delta 14" floor model. Very smooth table and vibration free. It will be the last one you'll have to buy.


Good luck

------------------
Dave Sherby
"Sandman"
SherWood Sign & Graphic Design
Crystal Falls, MI 49920
906-875-6201
ICQ: 21604027
sherwood@up.net

[This message has been edited by Dave Sherby (edited January 20, 2000).]
 

Posted by Linda Silver Eagle (Member # 274) on :
 
Mr. Sandman
...send me a jig
...make it for circles really small and real big
...I know I'll smile when the job is over
...and each day I'll wish for you a four-leaf clover
...

In all seriousness, Dave I am INTERESTED!

Thank you!
(can't get that song outta my head now! hahaha!)

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~\ Sign Painters always have 1-Shot left! /~

Linda Silver Eagle Member #5653

ICQ #60434646

Silver Eagle Graphix Studio in GA, USA
Big on Murals and Tight on Camera Ready
(770) 822-0117


 

Posted by Wayne Webb (Member # 1124) on :
 
We have Two bandsaws: one is an old Homecraft{Delta, Rockwell) and the other is an old Craftsman they work fine but, as previously mentioned, they have to be adjusted and cleaned occasionally. For really large stuff I use a Porter Cable bayonet saw. I've cut out signs laminated from 4 inch cedar with it. This particular saw is the only brand I know of that has guide blocks in the base to keep the blade running true. It will accept virtually any blade up to about 6 inches or so. It's not as accurate as a band saw, but it works well for stuff thats too big. Wouldn't be without it.

------------------
Wayne Webb
Webb Sign Studio,Inc.
Blastin' Woodesigns in Chipley, FL
"autograph your work with Excellence"
webbsignstudio@digitalexp.com
 



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