I'm going to be gold leafing some plastic Gemini letters. The gold leaf part shouldn't be too bad - I've done a bit....The letters also are going to need a clear over them.
The customer is really concerned about the durability. The sign will be within touching range if someone stretches and it's at a university! The other concern is about someone stealing the whole sign, but that part can be taken care of.
Any thoughts on what to use that will hold up indoors for several years that can be cleaned with who-knows-what by occassionally over zealous maintenance people? Will Aerosol Frog Juice work? Or do I need a brushed on clear like LeFranks or something?
If they are going to be touched I would look into spraying them with a two-part automotive clear. Do a test piece so you know what will work without ruining the size. I have brushed two-part clear over leaf on truck doors that were done with quick size, but I would think slow size would be needed for dimensional letters.
------------------ "A wise man concerns himself with the truth, not with what people believe." - Aristotle
When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Raoul Duke (Hunter S. Thompson)
Cam Finest Kind Signs 256 S. Broad St. Pawcatuck, Ct. 06379 "Award winning Signs since 1988"
Posted by Chuck Peterson (Member # 70) on :
I'm sure you will get some good responses about clearcoating gold, but another option is to use the clear acrylic Gemini letters and gild the inside so you're seeing the gold through the clear plastic and the size. You can't use the standard stud mount but you have to gigure out a different installation method. I foam filled the letters after gilding and glued them on.
Why bother clear coating them? Much easier to hook up an electo-pounce to them! They will be touched ONLY ONCE!
------------------ Si Allen #562 La Mirada, CA. USA (714) 521-4810 ICQ # 330407 "SignPainters do It with Longer Strokes!"
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Posted by stein Saether (Member # 430) on :
We just did a mural latex gild at a collage. Some of it is within reach of fingers und such, and latex size is very weak and easy to scratch, but we assumed that the students would see that if WAS a NO touch stuff! Seems to work fine
When I made a gilded handle for a fishing rod; a art object that also was made to be used for fishing, I lay one layer of 22 K then a new layer of size and then a layer with 24 K ex dur ex thick.
But if the customer insist on WASHING the gold Then I would have gone for cheap gilded sheet metal Hard to tell the diff trough clear
------------------ Stein Sæther GullSkilt AS Trondheim
Posted by Jackson Smart (Member # 187) on :
I just went thru clear coating gold leaf letters....NIGHTMARE...All I can say is: TEST PIECE,TEST PIECE,TEST PIECE.!!! I use FrogJuice on my gold that needs clearcoating...and have had no problems...only when you add 2-part clears do you need to be careful.
Good Luck..
------------------ Jackson Smart Jackson's Signs Port Angeles, WA
Livin in the Great Northwest!
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Posted by Brett Baker (Member # 712) on :
I clear leaf with a urethane or polyurethane(Imron)clear.First trick is use a brand that doesn't use reducer,just catalyst.First couple coats just mist on,allow dry dime and spray wet coat.DuPont (among others)make what is called a 'repair clear' that is dust free in 5 minutes and it works perfect for this.Be cautioned any activated paint is incredibly dangerous to your health and if you don't have proper ventilation or respiration,send it to a body shop.Hope that helps.
------------------ Brett Baker candykolor@aol.com "free your mind,the rest will follow"
Posted by George Perkins (Member # 156) on :
The suggestions of two part automotive clears are the way to go. They can be easily brushed on but I think Brett's suggestion of having a body shop do it is an excellant idea. The clears and necessary hardners are very expensive, usually not sold in small amounts and will go bad before you will get to use them again. Most body shops will gladly clear small items for a nominal fee and do a great job of it. As long as the item isn't a pain to move around, they just stick it in the spray booth while they are clearing a customers car and use the leftovers on your project to make a few extra bucks. A win win situation.
------------------ George Perkins Millington,TN. goatwell@ixlmemphis.com
"I started out with nothing and still have most of it left"
If it is going to be an interior sign, and it only needs protection from abrasion; then I would brush on a coat of WW Window Spar! If it wolds up to repeated washings in a window gold leaf job - it will work on this application! An added plus... it won't lift, curl, wrinkle, or mess up your gold leaf - if you let it cure overnite, before coating it with the clear!
------------------ Si Allen #562 La Mirada, CA. USA (714) 521-4810 ICQ # 330407 "SignPainters do It with Longer Strokes!"
Brushasaurus on Chat
Posted by stein Saether (Member # 430) on :
clearcoating gold is a misunderstanding
------------------ Stein Sæther GullSkilt AS Trondheim
[This message has been edited by SteinS (edited December 23, 1999).]
Posted by Glenn Taylor (Member # 162) on :
I've been in the same situation before. If I did it today, I would go with the FrogJuice. The first time I did it, I used Imron. It was a nightmare. If you do use a 2-part polyurethane, be sure to mix a few drops of the catalyst into the size to "marry" the chemicals. Then when the time comes, spray a "flash" coat of the clear on to the gold. Let dry and then spray two light coats.
With FrogJuice, I don't worry about going through all of those steps again. The last several ones that I have done were with FJ. It was much easier and quicker. As for durability, the oldest one done with FJ is 4 years old. So far, so good. The first ones that I did with Imron had to be redone after 5 years. The clear started flaking off, taking the gold with it. Fortunately for me, my client thought that was just part of nature and hired me to refurbish the sign.
