This is topic coating out an MDO in forum Old Archives at The Letterville BullBoard.


To visit this topic, use this URL:
http://www.letterville.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php/topic/13/57.html

Posted by Mike Berry (Member # 848) on :
 
Which paint is best? I know that is kind of a loaded question, and everyone has their own opinion, but I am looking....

We had heard about Porter paint....how wonderful it was. OK, we got some, had 5 MDO double sided signs to do, bought the MDO pre rimed. Used the Porter paint, 3 coats later (each side) still not overly impressed with the coverage. Used a gallon on 4, ran out (figures!) had a brand new can of Chromatic on the shelf...broke it open and WOW, 1 coat and it looked better than the 3 coats of Porter!!

I admit, I get a bit impatient, but not this time, I let the paint set up, lightly sanded it the whole 9 yards. Am I expecting too much?

Just looking for your input. As it stands, I guess I would use a container of Porter for a paperweight. Did the job of 3 coats with one coat of another brand, just frustrates me to think of all the wasted time...

Thanks for your input! Happy Holidays!!

------------------
Mike Berry & Arene Luteman
Concord Sign Company
Concord, New Hampshire

We support this awesome site....do you???

www.concordsign.com
mberry@totalnetnh.net
603-226-6500
603-226-4507 FAX
1-877-83SIGNS - Toll Free!

[This message has been edited by Mike Berry (edited December 17, 1999).]
 


Posted by Bruce Williams (Member # 691) on :
 
Chromatic paint is made specifically for signs. Porter is not. But one thing I've had to watch with Chromatic is that it wants to bubble, and I have to dry-roll it more than once.

Bruce Williams
Lexington KY

------------------
Bruce Williams
 


Posted by Jeff Lang (Member # 336) on :
 
Mike,
Sorry to hear about your coverage problems. I do use Porter often, & have not had an experience like you have described. Maybe it was mixed wrong, or something else. I have noticed though, that the oil based signpaints that I have used haven't held up as well as the Porter Advantage 900 series. Oil based chalks, cracks, & fades quicker than Porter, but, to each his own.
I do spray 80% of my finishes, so maybe that has something to do with the coverage. More of an even coat when applied. Give it another try before it becomes a paperweight.
Good Luck

------------------
Jeffrey P. Lang
Olde Lang Signs
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
412 322-5264
oldelangsigns@msn.com



 


Posted by Si Allen (Member # 420) on :
 
Want a glass smooth coat on your MDO?
After priming, use 1Shot Bulletin Enamel, Chromatic Bulletin Enamel, or Ronan Background Enamel... with a some Edge or Penetrol added to it!
I simply dump some on and spread it around with a roller, wait a few minutes and pop the bubbles by LIGHTLY re-rolling it.
A glass smooth finish!
Werks fer me!!!!

------------------
Si Allen #562
La Mirada, CA. USA
(714) 521-4810
ICQ # 330407
"SignPainters do It with Longer Strokes!"

Brushasaurus on Chat


[This message has been edited by Si Allen (edited December 17, 1999).]
 


Posted by cheryl nordby (Member # 1100) on :
 
Benjamin Moore Impervo. works great. I use the oil base low luster with the primer already in it for the first coat.....then use the high gloss Impervo for the second coat. It never needs more. I have been using this for 25 years. I started using it because it didn't have lead in it. And I have never stopped using it. You cannot go wrong with Benjamin Moore!

------------------
Cheryl Nordby "surf" signs by Cheryl!
"surfsigns"
a hop and skip from Seattle
surfsigns@excite.com

ICQ# 36992184



 


Posted by Paintman (Member # 1248) on :
 
Hey Mike,
Still trying to get down to see you and check out your shop!I tried a little trick I read in signcraft a few years ago and it seemed to work pretty good.On your second coat,(assuming your using a foam core roller)set a push pin into the side of the roller wheel so that it catches the side of the rod when it comes around, stopping the roller from turnig.Back drag your finish coat.I got nice results.
Happy Holidays to you all and an awsome 2000!!


Dale Flewelling
Dale's Paint n' Place
Newport,NH
flew@sugar-river.net

------------------

 


Posted by Susan Banasky (Member # 1164) on :
 
Mike, For white coated Mdo, I suggest the following paint: To prime the boards use 'CIL Professional 2000 White, Alkyd Stain Bloc, Int/Ext fast dry primer/sealer'.
A great sandable sealer. To coat the boards use 'ICI Paint (Canada) Inc. Ripolin Gloss Enamel #2940 Ultra White'. My sign guroo tells me that ICI Paint Co. has a patent on their formula for white, and it is a very clean white that appears to be whiter and brighter than a lot of others, so he may be right. Depending on the job, I use 1-3 coats. Both paints go a long way! Good Luck!

------------------
Susan Banasky
Source Signs
Nanaimo, British Columbia
sourcesigns@telus.net

When in need....go directly to the "Source"!

Proud Supporter of this "Knowledge Network"!
 


Posted by Mark in Estes Park (Member # 300) on :
 
I'm with Si. Enamels (1 shot/Chromatic) are a staple here. We have a couple of jobs that went out 7 years ago with 1 coat of lettering enamel that are doing very well (we're at 7300ft and dry dry dry Colorado air with a BLAST of ugly wind)... Something that has helped to track performance is taking a minute to jot down on every job what primer and edge seal method we use- which paint (style and manufacturer) and # of coats- in addition to vinyl specs and the like... Pays off later to re orders or repairs as well as tracking performance. Now, anyone have an opinion on Cooke's all purpose primer? I have not had good luck (?) with it. Seems to be quite thick- difficult to get smooth coverage as well as overloading brushes, etc. I have no problems with similar 'brand names' and have heard positive comments about it here- but I haven't seen it myself- anyone?

Thanks/Mark

------------------
Signs of Life
"Signs You See Everyday"
Estes Park, Colorado

[This message has been edited by Mark in Estes Park (edited December 18, 1999).]
 


Posted by Rick Sacks (Member # 379) on :
 
Mark, we've been using Jay's primer for two years now. I like it, although it hasn't bee out there long enough to tell if it will last. I do know that our former primers didn't hold up well at all any more. We used to use block-out white. Adding some FlowTrol to the Cooke primer helps it to flow out better also.

------------------
The SignShop
Mendocino, California
"Where the Redwoods meet the Surf"



 


Posted by Dave Sherby (Member # 698) on :
 
My first MDO sign went out 8 years ago. It still looks like it did when I put it up. Its facing west too. I use Ronan block out white as a primer. The faces get one coat, the edges 2 coats. I fill all voids in the edges first with epoxy putty. I also round over the edges slightly to relieve the sharpness as paint has a tendancy to creep away from a sharp 90 degree edge. Then 2 coats of One Shot lettering enamel. I used to use bulletin colors until I got tired of stocking the same colors of lettering enamel and bulletin colors. One Shot also told me that bulletin colors are designed more for billboards thus a shorter life than lettering enamels. I have not had a single failure yet. (knock on wood) My area experiences temperature extremes of 40 below zero to 100, but probably less sunshine than southern and western areas.

I know Benjamin Moore is quality paint, but a rep from SignLife told me that they are allowed to put better chemicals into paints and stains for commercial use than the brands for the home owner are allowed to. My reputation is worth the slight extra cost of professional sign painters materials. I'm sticking to the stuff made for signs!

------------------
Dave Sherby
"Sandman"
SherWood Sign & Graphic Design
Crystal Falls, MI 49920
906-875-6201
ICQ: 21604027
sherwood@up.net


 




Powered by Infopop Corporation
UBB.classic™ 6.7.2