So what are the great little solutions or gizmos you have come up with in your shop that others could benefit from copying?
I use oval silicone baking dishes to set my paint cans in while I am using them. You can lay wet brushes or stir sticks right on them. They catch any drips from the paint, are soft so they won't scratch or mar the surface you are working on and once you are done you let any waste paint dry and then just twist them and it pops right off. They are really great for doing murals or working on site where you need to be cautious about messing up another's space. For small detailing jobs they will act as a tray for all your supplies.
Your turn Posted by David Wright (Member # 111) on :
If you apply your vinyl with the center hinge method the scotch paper cutter is great for cutting away the line paper. http://www.mayfairstationers.co.uk/images/3m93909.jpg Posted by Kelly Thorson (Member # 2958) on :
I don't remember who I stole this idea from, I think perhaps it was from someone here, but I have plastic eavestroughing screwed on to the sides and ends of some of my work tables that serve as a place to set down pens, tape measures, knives etc as I work and keep them close at hand without being on my working surface.
Posted by Nevman (Member # 332) on :
I have something similar Kelly...
I cut a 2"x4" PVC post in half - with one side cut taller than the other & screw the tall side to the bench. It's not as deep as a rain gutter (as we call 'em) and it holds all of those things great.
I think that the first time I saw the gutters used was at the Duck Soup meet at Pat King's place.
[ October 08, 2008, 10:45 AM: Message edited by: Nevman ]
Posted by Mike Pipes (Member # 1573) on :
When applying transfer tape to vinyl over long runs or just when using wider tapes that tend to get unruly, I wrap the end of the tape around a wooden dowel which helps keep even tension on the tape to avoid wrinkles and creases.
When I apply vinyl with the center hinge method, I use the squeegee as a guide to tear off the liner. It helps keep the tear line pretty clean.
Posted by Ricky Jackson (Member # 5082) on :
David I picked up a similar item one time and loved it but could never find anymore. Can you tell me where you get those please. Kelly are you talking about gutters? I have a 10' section of PVC gutter screwed to the side of my weeding table; that's where all my tools (and a lot of other things) are kept.
My table tops (the 4x16' weeding/taping table and the 5x24' banner table) are covered with 1/4" high molecular weight plastic. The extra thickness allows for it to be turned over and in the case of the weeding table, turned over, turned around, and flipped around, thereby allowing the most used portion to be rotated to 8 positions. I bought this stuff when we opened 13 years ago and it's end is nowhere in sight yet.
Nuther thing I've done is rather than measuring each banner, I marked the edge of my banner table every foot and a distinct mark every two feet. I pull the banner material off the roll, align it with a 2' mark, quickly count off the hash marks and cut my banner to length. That one thing has probably saved me an hour a month.
I proudly admit to being totally anal about organization. I hang as much stuff on the walls as possible, carefully considering where and how often I use it.
That brings me to another case-in-point tip: I have 4 of the metal vinyl racks that hold 16 rolls; the closest ones are mounted less than a foot from my vinyl workstation. I have them arranged by first line, second line and occasional use. I stock everything in 15" and 20". The colors on each rack (15" above and 20" below) are arranged exactly alike. Nearest my workstation, from top to bottom, are Sapphire Blue, Cardinal Red, White, Black; that's because those four colors are used the most frequently. Those are my first line vinyls. Second line vinyls are next and are Dark Red, Burgundy, Vivid Blue, Navy Blue, next row Sky Blue, Forest Green, Green, and Kelly Green. The next row and the next rack include the seldom used colors like Purple, Orange, Brown, Beige, the Yellow family, etc.
I use a cardboard box covered in vinyl as a catch box for my plotter; it keeps it from getting dirt on it and keeps it all neatly in one spot.
I keep the "sacred scissors" on top of the plotter - NEVER using them for anything other than cutting the vinyl graphics off the roll. You can imagine how many hours that has saved me from walking around looking for the scissors.
I have a 2' x 2' x 4' trash box right under where I weed. It's made of 10mm coro and duct tape. One end (working end) slopes out about 5" from the bottom. I can toss my trash in there from both sides of the table and I don't even hardly have to look; I know exactly where it's at and it's not in the way.
I built a shelf above the workstation for the Goober Edge foils. On the 2x4 attached to the wall I put screws and that's where I hang my backed up Goober and Photoshop disks, right at hand and they are all categorized of course.
At the end of my weeding table I have a 24" banner tube that stands on end, screwed to the 2x4 table leg. That tube holds all of my yard sticks and straight edges. I don't have to look for them.
All of my software is in one box and everything is labeled as to which system it goes to (if necessary).
As far as work aids go, by far the best one is my "Jackson Speed-loader" tape dispenser system. It takes less than 3 seconds to change rolls and is the most perfect system for taping there is - period. I've had the $300 system and it's not worthy to be compared to mine. The details are considered a trade secret at this point because my intention is to make them for sale or license it to be made. I did send one to Doug Allen but I don't know if he's used it or not. The last two work aids I can't divulge because because one is a franchise innovation and the other is another aid that I plan to make and market. Lets just say that this one thing alone saves me over $3,000 a year in productivity. I've "field tested" this item for the last 12 years, refined it time and time again and I would not do without it - period.
Posted by John Arnott (Member # 215) on :
I made a vacuum table for weeding. I see others wasting so much time trying to hold the vinyl down before weeding. I just flip the switch on and snap the vinyl off. This is the best time saver for any shop.
Posted by Ricky Jackson (Member # 5082) on :
That reminds me John, on the end of my banner table I have a screen printing station that has a vacuum section on it, powered by the shop vac. If it works as good for weeding as it does for screen printing coroplast, it's a life saver. BTW, I have standard screens and a template in my design software that aligns so perfectly I put my screen in the hinges and go to work, never even looking at the registration because it's perfect every time.
Posted by David Wright (Member # 111) on :
Ricky, try Office Depot.
Posted by William DeBekker (Member # 3848) on :
After Jackson Engineering I don't feel worthy.
I made a Application Tape Applicator from a Dowel Rod and a scrap 2x4 does that count.
Built a tree house with a Pocket knife.
All our vinyl is by the plotters spread out over 3 rooms.
Made a Router Bit holder with the drop 2x4 from the application tape holder by wiggle drilling holes to hold 1/4 shank bits. I did have a 1/2 drill bit for the larger ones.
Now for computer files I am anal All the computers are set up exactly the same so if/when one fails I just plug in the Remote drive and reinstall everything from one drive. Programs/Os/Drivers.
Have been in business for 15 years and I think we may finally get a sign out front by November.
Posted by Jane Diaz (Member # 595) on :
Quilter Rulers! They are clear, easy to see what you are measuring, come in all shapes & sizes and we have them all over.
And when I have trouble with a customer, I send them back to our "quality control department"! Posted by Graham Parsons (Member # 1129) on :
Anyone watch 'Corner Gas' ?
Posted by Lotti Prokott (Member # 2684) on :
I'm bad at putting things back where they belong, even if there is a place for it, so now I have a pair of scissors tied to the plotter because there was never a pair of scissors there to cut off the vinyl. On busy days, I cary basic things like squeegie, Xacto, etc, around in a carpenters apron, this alone has saved me not only much time but probably a pair of running shoes.
Posted by Wayne Webb (Member # 1124) on :
I'll start with the simpler stuff.
I use old pantyhose for straining latex paint before loading it in my HVLP sprayer,
Cool whip tubs are great for mixing paint.
Yogurt containers are ideal for mixing epoxy.
Baby food jars are great for small amounts of paint.
I made a glue dispenser out of stainless steel plate, PVC pipe, two PVC closet flanges, a lovejoy coupling, 1/2" steel rod, bronze bearings and a 1/4 HP gearmotor.
Made a contraption for sifting blasting sand with an angle iron frame, screen wire, a 5 gal. bucket ,PVC ball valve, and a 1/2 HP motor. I wired a couple of large washers to one side of the motor pulley, which renders the pulley out of balance. It vibrates the the screen and sifts the sand into a bucket. Any larger particles and rocks fall through a little chute and into another bucket.
One grain fraim is made out of PVC pipe and another out of steel square tubing. Both are strung with stainless steel MIG welding wire.
Since my CNC router is in another building, I installed a baby monitor, in case the motor stalls or some other disaster happens while I'm in the office. A network cable is connected under ground between the buildings to each computer so the router can also be monitored by a webcam.
I have a TV in the showroom corner, mounted on one of those wall-bracket-arm thingies. My daughter made a cool powerpoint presentation for it to show to customers; sort of like a video portfolio.
The computer connected to the router, is enclosed in a "booth" made of 80/20 aluminum and plexiglas. On the top front is a bathroom exhaust fan which circulates outside air through a 20x24 air conditioner filter, at the back,into the unit and blows it down on the operator. It keeps shop dust out of the computer, keeps it cool and keeps you cool as well.
Posted by John Lennig (Member # 2455) on :
handling large vinyl, either digital prints or cut vinyl...working along or with a helper, using the hinge method, i put a thin stick along the end of the first half, stuck to the adhesive... then, either working along , or with helper holding the magic stick R.... you can keep even tension as you smooth down the stuff with your fingers... when working alone, it helps to have long arms for the larger pieces..follow?? gee, i'd better not write a tech manual... :rofl:it's all about tension...the Good Kind!
Posted by Dave Sherby (Member # 698) on :
Wayne, do you wear that many pairs of panty hose?
The one thing we do that I can take credit for is an idea for removing that protective vinyl sheet on DiBond, Alumalite etc. Make a 48 inch tube from the cardboard core that vinyl comes on. Duct tape is fine. Pull up about a foot or so of the vinyl protector sheet, keeping it fairly intact and lay it back on itself, sticky side up. Put the cardboard core under the flap and roll it backwards toward the end you started it from. The idea is to get a layer of the protector wrapped around the core with the sticky side out. The first one you do will take a little time, but after you get a sheet or two on the core it goes really fast. Just roll the tube toward the other end of the board. The vinyl protector will roll itself onto the core.
After you have a few layers on the core it goes really fast. If I am by myself, I just grap one end and turn it. With 2 people you can keep your hands flat on top of the tube and push. But keep your fingers straight. It's a little too easy to get them wrapped up in the core and that smarts.
With this method you can remove the entire protector in just a few seconds. We keep using it until it gets too heavy.
[ October 09, 2008, 11:48 PM: Message edited by: Dave Sherby ]
Posted by Steve Purcell (Member # 1140) on :
To hide flat head screws: I cut rows of circles in enamel-receptive clear and keep them on hand in the paint room (unweeded).
When I'm coating out a panel, I cut a strip of circles and paint them also.
Weed while wet, and presto, perfect covers for the screws.
Posted by Sheila Ferrell (Member # 3741) on :
There are some inovatively cool ideas here!
How come I can never think of any 'on-the-spot'?
Ya know, most of these things just spontaneously happen, often NOT frequently enough to be needed daily, or even in a year, or to be able to recall what you came up with, when needed again . . .
Meanwhile, eat lots of pop-sicles (for the sticks) In a pinch for these, involve the kids in pop-sickle-paint-stirring-stick-aquiring . . . As Wayne mentioned, eat more yogurt, but also, Jello and apple sauce . . . those little plastic cups are perfect. Again, force kids to eat more . . .
In a pinch for something to mix larger amounts of paint? I cut-down plastic thinner gallon 'jugs', and sometimes just a large hole, leaving the handle part, which also makes a good funnel in a pinch . . . but mostly, I cut off the bottom, about 4" deep. I make 1/2" triangular 'notches' on one end of the 'lip'. You can lay brushes almost flat in thinner for a while.
4x8 stryofoam insulation boards, usually pink or blue, make good pounce substrates.
Save a broken tape measure. Nail it to the front edge of a work table.
Silver Xacto blade handles are often hard to see. They roll too. Often, onto your feet. pointy-end down . . . ANY-way, in school supplies you can get these 'rubbery' grips kids put on pencils. They are colourful and often hex or triangular shaped to prevent rolling.
Are we getting any royalites off these ideas?? HUH?
When you know yer gonna recoat with the same colour, and yer usin' oil-based paint with a roller, wrap up the roller part with a plastic grocery store bag, or the like, and put it, handle and all, in the freezer. You can reuse it over and over as long as it's still wet. If you don't need it for a while, it'll keep over a month.
I dip sign hardware in 'mid-coat adhesion promoter'. I put handfuls of screws and washers and such in paper-paint-strainers (they give you a bunch when you buy auto paint). Then I suspend the strainer in an old cup 'til the hardware is dry. It makes the finish-paint stick much longer and seems to inhibit rusting too.
No strainers, hose, or cheese-cloth? Or need something with larger strainging capacity? I often cut squares of window screen and bend it in a cone-shape.
Need certain paints to not dry-out so fast? Seal it by laying a couple of layers of saran-wrap over the top of the can before hammering the lid on.
oh! oh! ONE more . . . when packing something to mail and you're concerned about packing material 'sticking' for some reason, use the waxy side of vinyl-backing paper. Particularly Gregory's. I save all the larger peices of it after applying vinyl. It's also good for laying a panel on when one side is 'dry' and painting the other side.
Naming too many things here?
I TAKE IT ALL BACK.
[ October 10, 2008, 04:32 AM: Message edited by: Sheila Ferrell ]
Posted by George Perkins (Member # 156) on :
For a light table, I bought a glass shower door that was a left over at a glass shop. I think it cost ten dollars. I built a frame out of 2x6, stuck a two buld flourescent under it and mounted it on a six drawer dresser that was laying around unused. It has a gutter mounted to the side of it. Plenty of storage and CHEAP!!!
Posted by Dan Beach (Member # 9850) on :
I take soda/beer cans out of the recycle can and cut them in half and use them for my thinners.
I use them once, then back in the recycle can they go . . .
Posted by John Lennig (Member # 2455) on :
regarding putting rollers wrapped in plastic in the freezer... oil based paints, and ESPECIALLY xzylonol ?sp? based(chalkboard paint) better not have any food in that freezer...ask me how i know...lol just loved those salmon and lamb pieces with that zxynol "flavour" seems plastic "breathes"
Posted by Wayne Webb (Member # 1124) on :
quote:Originally posted by Dave Sherby: Wayne, do you wear that many pairs of panty hose?
Only on Sundays, Dave, with my high-heeled shoes. Posted by Frank Magoo (Member # 3950) on :
I take pantyhose and cutting on the bias, make rings of nylon to put on end of finger when striping to aid in smooth movement and also it keeps the heat down (no friction) when outside in sun striping...but having seen Wayne on Sunday mornings, he gets much better use out of them than I...
Posted by Anne McDonald (Member # 6842) on :
I wear a bum bag around my waist with the pouch at the front, I keep squeegee, knife and measuring tape in it. There's room to add pencils etc if needed. If I'm wrapping a big vehicle everything I need is easily accesible.
All the baby food tins we can get our hands on are used for enamel paints. When finished with a colour we drain the tin, leave it to dry and reuse the tin when the paint has set off completely. It's friendlier to the environment to get the maximum use from the tin
We use mostly empty food tins for acrylic paints. Everyone at work is encouraged to clean and bring in their tins.
When weeding really tiny lettering, I weed out only the centres of all the letters then applicate. I pull the applictin tape and vinyl so that the sticky side is facing up then pull the vinyl off the application tape leaving only the small letters stuck
If putting together multiple numbers of identical signs I set up a jig from the first one with all of the measurements marked so that each consecutive sign is easily laid out. (takes about 5 minutes on the first sign)
Posted by Wayne Webb (Member # 1124) on :
quote:Originally posted by Frank Magoo: I take pantyhose and cutting on the bias, make rings of nylon to put on end of finger when striping to aid in smooth movement and also it keeps the heat down (no friction) when outside in sun striping...but having seen Wayne on Sunday mornings, he gets much better use out of them than I...
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Been doin' that alot....Frank? Posted by Sheila Ferrell (Member # 3741) on :
LOL John, I have heard some have a problem with that but I've never had any flavour problems from doing this so far . . .
With ragard to cutting cans and tins and such, that did'nt work all that well for me as the sharp edge tend to cut brush hairs when palleting . . . speaking of palleting, some signers just let the paint skim over, Then you can just poke a hole in it and pallet the brush right on the skin . . . assuming you've thinned it properly and the skin is'nt a half inch thick . . .lol
Posted by Kerry Hargraves (Member # 6837) on :
One of my handiest tools is a seam gauge. This is a 6-inch metal ruler with a sliding marker found in the sewing gadget department. Perfect of repeating the same measurement without having to actually read the ruler.
Posted by Dawud Shaheed (Member # 5719) on :
I there's still anyone on here that letters windshields. I use a small paint tray (the one for a 3 or 4" roller) with the hooks. I sit the paint in cups of course, right in the paint tray and use the hooks to hang on to the windshield wiper so there's no sliding off and spilling paint everywhere. Also, I use low tack adhesive clear vinyl rectangles to paint on so the dealer doesn't have to scrape it off anymore. Makes it an easy sell, plus the salesmen just throw them away all the time so they call me back that much more!
Posted by KARYN BUSH (Member # 1948) on :
i buys lots of duplicates...tons of squeegies, exactos, rulers, tapes, sissors...ya know, the one thing you are always looking for. every few weeks i go around and gather similar items and try to put them all back in "that" spot.
Posted by Kelly Thorson (Member # 2958) on :
Most of the new liquid laundry detergent containers have a no drip spout that is really handy for solvents. I also cut a section out of the upper part of the side opposite the handle and use them for my bulk nails.
Posted by Kissymatina (Member # 2028) on :
When you're in an awkward position on a ladder,
hanging on for dear life,
stripping vinyl off a metal awning,
with the 9-heat setting heat gun set to 8
and the heat gun slips...
LET IT DROP!
DO NOT attempt to reach out & grab it unless you like having your hand dressed & wrapped like the pillsbury dough boy.
(Doc says it should be ok to unwrap it on Friday.)
Posted by David Harding (Member # 108) on :
Ouch! You had a tough time typing that message, didn't you?
Posted by jack wills (Member # 521) on :
Speaking of bottles Kelly, A gallon water jug can be used for hauling a lot of things to a install site When you cut a out of the front section of the jug. Also it's a good place to put latex brushes for a short period in water while working on a mural or sign project. When preparing to roll some paint...Lay out about 3 FT. of transfer tape upside down and roll the cover over the sticky side a few times to pull off lint and other debris. When on a ladder...Take a small bucket with some things used for install, have a hook, bracket that can hang on the fold out hinges and save a few up and down moves especially when up high.
Jack
Posted by Bill Diaz (Member # 2549) on :
For straightening hairs on lettering brushes:
I have a tin can mounted to a welded steel stand that I fill with brush oil. To get the oil hot I use a propane torch and heat the can. In about 30 seconds the oil is hot and you submerge the brush hairs in the oil for a few seconds. The hot oil straightens the brush hairs.
A trick worthy of note from Gene Golden that he explained during Jill's Jamboree ... to remove vinyl lettering:
Take a single edge razor blade (the kind that fits in a holder) and round the outside corners with a file. After cleaning the surface spray the surface with WD40, spray the razor with WD40, shoot go ahead and spray yourself with WD40. The WD40 glides the blade and also helps keep the scraped off vinyl from sticking to the razor blade. Note: This works perfect for reflective too as we just removed reflective lettering from 50+ hospital signs that we refurbished this year.
Posted by Ken Henry (Member # 598) on :
Almost every shop has those "portable easels" made by drilling a couple of 2"x4's with holes every 6" or so, and wooden dowels inserted into those holes provide the adjustable height required when resting against a wall.
Well, one day I needed a temporary drying rack for some 4' x 8's that were to be coated out. "What if I turned those pre-drilled 2 x 4's upside down and fastened then to the ends of my sawhorses ?" I thought to myself. Well, I tried it out and used some scrap 3/4" galvanized pipe cut to 52" lengths put through those pre-drilled holes to bridge the gap between the upright 2 x 4's. The result was more than acceptable and with proper spacing, the converted easels/sawhorses made a very good temporary drying rack that disassembled easily when the 8 panels were finished drying.
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Again, force kids to eat more . . .![[Wink]](wink.gif)
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seems plastic "breathes"
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