Somebody had a post about static electricity a while back which I did not respond too. I type slow and am always under the gun. I remember reading in a automotive trade magazine about 20+ years ago about attempts to cure the problem of getting rid of static electricity on substraits. Someone had even rigged up a device with chains to ground the vehicle they were working on to get rid of the static. I thought that was extreme. Others were getting products from the store that were used to spray on fabric to get rid of it. Back then I wondered what all the fuss was until I tried to paint on a snowmobile and couldn't even touch my brush to the surface without the paint spider-webbing out of the brush. Woooooeeeeeeee said I.
Over the years I discovered by accident which is how I discovered most unique things that rubbing alcohol or plain water kills static. We buy oodles of rubbing alcohol which I use as my final prep on vehicles. I like it because it cleans and evaporates in a hurry. It will even remove minor tar residue if it is applied liberally enough. I use urethane striping and lettering enamel for painting on vinyl and for all my striping and have found that rubbing alcohol will even remove this paint if applied within a few hours. Since a bottle of rubbing alcohol costs under a dollar and can be purchased almost anywhere (Walmart, Wallgreens, etc.) I keep it nearby always.
Another thing I discovered (again by accident) was a solvent for getting rid of glue left behind by removing vinyl. I'm talking about stubborn glue not easily removed by 3M adhesive remover or a host of other removers. I was scurrying around impatiently trying this solvent and that solvent when the products designed to remove the glue all failed and the last can sitting there was turpentine. What the hey, I thought, I'll give it a chance. Man does that stuff work great. It seems to have just the right amount of bite. If you can stand the fumes you might give it a try.
Also the Big Eraser that you put on a drill for removing vinyl is great for removing striping and also smaller lettering. It gets rid of the vinyl and the glue all in one process. If you have any additional discoveries on removing vinyl I would like to know about them. I wonder if "the Shark" which is a steam cleaner would work for larger vinyl graphics. We thought it deserves a try.--Bill
Posted by Arthur Vanson (Member # 2855) on :
Bill or Jane?
Haven't any stubborn glue to experiment with at the moment, so would you mind clarifying if you meant Genuine Turps or Turps Sub?
Not that I've ever been let down by Rapid Remover but it would be good to have some advice for curious DIY'ers.
Thanks – Arthur
Posted by Bill&Jane Diaz (Member # 2549) on :
Genuine turps. I've never figured out why some glues are more stubborn than others. I removed some today on a vehicle where the vinyl was only on it for 2 years. It came off with hardly any glue residue. Maybe the length of time the vinyl is on there has something to do with it.
Posted by Doug Allan (Member # 2247) on :
I know HP vinyl is far better at coming off with the adhesive compared to Calandered. I also found that reflective & signgold are worth applying on an HP backing if there is any anticipation of removal (like on my own truck) because the cost of a little wasted HP is nothing to the time I've spent fighting gluey deposits like those, but now I will try the turpentine. Thanks for the heads up!
Posted by Bill&Jane Diaz (Member # 2549) on :
Yeah, good thought on the reflective as it is a rascal to get off! Bill
![[Smile]](smile.gif)
but it would be good to have some advice for curious DIY'ers.