This is a previous tip we posted, but new ones to the BB have probably not seen it. so here goes.
Finding the measurement of an existing Radius Corner
Lay a straight edge up against one side of the corner and then measure from that edge to where the radius curve becomes a straight line. In the example above the radius is 5 inches.
This really comes in handy when designing on the computer an existing radius cornered sign, or matching a curve.
------------------ Go Get 'Em..... :) AKA Raptorman I know one thing....you have to pay your Web Site bill or they delete the site! oops drapersigns.com is gone :) Draper The Signmaker Bloomington, Illinois www.drapersigns.com
Posted by Bryan Quebodeaux (Member # 48) on :
Most of you probably know this one. I was never a math wizard, my father-in-law who was a carpenter from the "old school" taught me this one. If you're ever out in the field and need to center a line of text on a sign , a sign on a wall or whatever, find center on the wall and mark, find center on sign or text and mark, match both center marks and you're done.
------------------ De'ja Voodoo? Bryan Quebodeaux SignWorks Church Point, LA 318-684-6058
Posted by Mark Matyjakowski (Member # 294) on :
From the board... Allways roll a banner with vinyl graphics facing out.
From dear Heloise... Use newspaper as rag for washing windows, less streaks, no little fiber leftovers, more scrubbing power.
A #16 x-acto blade with the very tip slightly dulled makes a great weeding tool, cuts vinyl and picks out without cutting vinyl.
If you forgot to clean your airbrush and have to actually have to scrub it out feed a scrap piece of screen mesh back and fourth through it to scrub it out after soaking, without damaging or leaving fiber leftovers.
Put a raised edge along work table, makes it easy to make straight/square cuts to sheet materials (slap material and a framing square against it... wala.)
Always read MSDS sheets before useing ANY paint or chemical, and take proper precautions... wear your mask!
small tips that work for me... first things that came to mind...
great idea Dave...
hope everybody kicks in a tip... however small a tip it may be may be some of benefit to someone
------------------ Compulsive, Neurotic Anti-Social & Paranoid but Basically Happy NEW slamgrafyx.cjb.net
Posted by Cam Bortz (Member # 55) on :
The "Automatic Brush" for long straight lines near the edge of a panel: Take a 2" bristle sash brush. Wrap the bristles in aluminum foil thats been folded to 4 or 5 times thickness, leaving a quarter inch or less of bristle sticking out. Charge the brush by stomping it into paint in a shallow can so that the bristles soak up a good load of paint. Clamp a straight edge to the panel, which is laid flat, and using it as a guide, pull the brush edgewise along it keeping the handle vertical. You should be able to pull an 8' line in one pass as fast as you can walk. - from the Atkinson book. It works!
------------------ still dancin' with squirrels....
Cam
Posted by Steve Barba (Member # 431) on :
Smooth Finishes For MDO- Prime- Sand (240)- Clean (Tack Rag)- Roll on color- Now you will have (literally) millions of air bubbles. Using a wide (6") soft bristled house type painting brush, go over the panel LIGHTLY to pop all the bubbles- I get super smooth results in about 15 minutes-
Mix airbrush paint (enamels) to the consistancy of milk. Works every time
Just ones of the top of my head- I'm sure I'll post again to this one!
------------------
Steve Barba: aka: BOLT on mIRC- Thunderbolt Signs & Graphics- Rapid City South Dakota 605-923-2265
"Lookin back in front of me"
Posted by Diane Crowther (Member # 120) on :
When you have a two (or more) colour vinyl layout where there is one dominant colour and some graphic elements of a different colour, here is an easy way to register them for easy application.
1) Cut the entire design (all elements) out of the dominant colour (lets say black), keeping all the proper spacing.
2) When weeding the black, remove completely the elements that are supposed to be a different colour...say red.
3) Cut the red elements out, and you can nest these for optimum use of the vinyl. Weed.
4) Now, on your black layout you have an knife impression on the release paper of where the red elements belong. Lift the red elements off their release paper and reposition them on where they belong on the black layer.
5) When you have transferred all the red and the whole design is on one backing sheet, apply premask, then put on the substrate in one piece.
Of course, this only works when the elements are small enough to handle and manipulate into position, but when they are, it's a lot faster than trying to register the pieces when applying to the substrate.
------------------ Diane Crowther, Metaline Graphics Ltd., Nova Scotia, Canada, ID #285
Posted by Rick (Member # 373) on :
I use PPG DX103 (its a precleaner for plastics, alcohol based) to get rid of static on anything fiberglass, plastic or composit. I spray a very light mist with a paint gun before doing any painting.
I found a big fishin box to use as a paint/tool/airbrush/brush box. it's plastic, has a deep space under the lid for my airbrushes, tape, bottles. it had 4 drawers I took the top one out now the second one fits small bottles of more paint, enough room for about 15 3 oz. bottles. third drawer is for all my brushes, knives. fourth drawer is for spare parts and tools. All the drawers have a door across the front of em. Its a plano box that only cost $24.
Hi Heads. This tip should be obvious, but is so often overlooked it amazes me. If you're going in to introduce yourself to a potential new customer, first take time to analyze how you can improve upon what they presently have in the way of signage. On a sketchpad, rough out an idea to show them. This always breaks the ice nicely, and the potential customer is usually impressed by the fact that you've taken an interest in their image. If you take in an idea, you'll be pleasantly surprised how often you also come out with an order. It may not even relate to what you've discussed, and may be something that they've been thinking about for some time...but the end result is that you get an order. People respond to visual stimulation and isn't that exactly what we're supposed to do best? Use it and get results.
------------------ Ken Henry Henry & Henry Signs London, Ontario Canada (519) 439-1881 e-mail kjmlhenry@home.com
Posted by Dave Grundy (Member # 103) on :
Tip from someone via Barb Shortreed. If you use a suction feed airbrush go to your local film processing shop and get your hands on a bunch of white 35 mm film canisters. Drill the appropriate size hole in the top. Cut the tubes on spray bottle spritzers to the correct length and shove through the hole in the canister tops. You now have a whole bunch of paint cups that you can pre-load with the various colors of paint you are going to use for a project. After use you can simply throw em away instead of haveing to clean up. BUT don't forget to clean the actual airbrush. These canisters and tubes are impervious to even lacqued based paints.
I always had trouble with the spray spritzers that come with application fluid. They wear out quickly. Same goes for all the other spritzers. They seem to be designed to last for only the life of the contents of the bottle. I ended up buying a couple of new WD 40 spray bottles (They are empty and are intended to be refilled from a gallon jug). The sprayers are heavy duty and I have never had to replace one yet. They also have an adjustable spray pattern.
------------------ Dave Grundy #340 AKA applicator on mIRC "stickin' sticky stuff to valuable vessels and vehicles!" in Granton, Ontario, Canada dave.grundy@odyssey.on.ca
[This message has been edited by Dave Grundy (edited April 11, 1999).]
Posted by Mark Matyjakowski (Member # 294) on :
Another way to position miltiple layers of vinyl I came up with In my example we have 3 vinyl colors (two of them over the top of the other.
First all colors are masked and trimed individualy (each masked layer represented by it's corosponding color)
Next the layers are positioned on a light table in reverse order of how they will be applied (red is last color to be mounted so it is on top) the layers are taped together (yellow x's)with each layer extending past previous
Now all colors can be positioned as one unit...
once in position each color is hinged (represented by it's corosponding color x) and folded back and can now be mounted one at a time already in register
------------------ Compulsive, Neurotic Anti-Social & Paranoid but Basically Happy NEW slamgrafyx.cjb.net
Posted by Tim Whitcher (Member # 685) on :
Save plastic 35mm film canisters. Use for touch up paint to give to customers who are installing their own signs (along with a couple 1" foam brushes.
After installing a board sign, always paint the heads of the fasteners with the same color paint... they'll virtually dissapear and create a more finished look.
Use 1/2 round white vinyl peices to cover screw heads on the face of Omega board.
Fill voids in board edges using wood patch rather than Bondo; it's more appropriate for the material.... since I've switched I haven't had an edge failure.
When using a cut board shape for a sign, plot out the shape in intermediate vinyl, apply to the board and use as a pattern for jigsawing.
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Posted by Dave Grundy (Member # 103) on :
Mark...That's the method I use for aligning layers....I just never figured out how to illustrate it. Good illustration!
------------------ Dave Grundy #340 AKA applicator on mIRC "stickin' sticky stuff to valuable vessels and vehicles!" in Granton, Ontario, Canada dave.grundy@odyssey.on.ca
Posted by Neil D. Butler (Member # 661) on :
Now I know these are probibly to obvious... To align multiple colors I always ask staff to trim off all excess vinyl and to use a straight edge. We cut Little windows through the premask as well as the backing paper, say 1 window at the start of the graphic, then the centre and finally the end of the graphic. I try to do these "Windows on straight letters. Then all you have to do is align the 2nd. color, tape and apply.
To premask, we keep a few of the "cores" of vinyl rolls ,to premask long areas we just simply start the premask by hand then all you do is "push" this core against the roll of premask untill you have the vinyl covered, it helps keep it aligned properly as well.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Oh one more thing, as far as 1 shot goes punch a hole in the lid, then put in a screw and when you need paint, take out the screw pour out what you need then put the screw back, helps keep the paint from hardening, and keeps everythimg nice and clean.
Neil
------------------ "Keep Positive"
Posted by Richard Bustamante (Member # 370) on :
Sign Tip #34: The "Stickie" Board. Grab yourself a piece of masonite(2'X 6') and lightly spay 3M super77 on it. The "Stickie" board is used for weeding. Lay the back of the vinyl to the "stickie" board temporarly. By adhearing the backing, you will have both hands free, as well as, faster weeding. The vinyl removes much easier, when the backing won't lift. Sign Tip # 12: Dry roller Finish. All of us have had those pesky bubbles when coating out sign blanks. How do you get rid of them? Once you've painted the background(hopefully with One`Shot or Chromatic) wait one(1) or two(2) minutes, remove the left`over paint still in the roller(by painting cardboard or paper)and lightly(I mean very lightly)roll over the bubbles with the dry roller. This will pop all them "God forsaken Bubbles". By the way, those film canisters are exactly one(1) ounce.
Here's a tool from scrap I made to do the pre-mask as Neil stated "steam rollering"
It just holds the masking up off the vinyl and slides accross table... so while your pushing the masking with the core... the masking isn't pushing on the vinyl and pulling up the serifs.
I hope nobody minds me putting 2 pics. in same thread... I don't want to slow it down,(each is under 4k) just trying to illustrate a point. Should I have started another thread? I'm hoping this will become a long one.
------------------ Compulsive, Neurotic Anti-Social & Paranoid but Basically Happy NEW slamgrafyx.cjb.net
Posted by Tim Barrow (Member # 576) on :
When my old quills get bounced arround on a long road trip or get out of shape from simple use,abuse,or just plain mashed up against the edge of the tray in my kit they often get a nasty curl or bent out of shape. My remedy,the same as the girls in the 60's with their curly hair when long straight hair was in high fashion.I "iron" out the curls.To do this I take & clean out any & all paint left in the brush with lacquer thinner.Be careful with some of the newer synthectic plastic type ferules as the can soften to rubber like consistancy in strong thinners,if you leave them too long in strong solvents.I then take a piece of .032 bare aluminum scrap & clamp it onto my bench or in a vise so that it is perfectly horizontal & can be heated with a candle or lighter from underneath.Then I put a puddle of mineral oil on top of the metal about 1" around( make sure your metal piece is large enough to allow at least a coupla inches on all sides so the mineral oil cannot run off the sides & catch fire as it will I assure you if in contact with direct flame)& heat the metal from below with a lighter or small torch until I see a reaction in the mineral oil,it will start to seperate.At this point a little common sense & judgement comes into play as if the metal is too hot the hair in the quills will be ruined & burnt but if allowed to cool to long the process will not work.I then take the aflicted brush & load it too with mineral oil.Then I take a brass toothed brush a little larger than a tooth brush(available at most hardware stores for less than a coupla dollars)& brush the curls out on the hot metal,making sure there is plenty of oil to protect the hair from the heat.The hot metal acts as an iron & the mineral oil protects the hair from the damage of the heat.I repeat this process until the brush will hold a nice crisp shape & all the hairs are nice & straight when full of thinner.Make sure to clean the thinner out & charge the brush up well with oil again before repeating the process.This has worked well for me in the past & often the hair in the quills will be straight as or better than new brushes. I would suggest using an old quill that is considered disposable for the first coupla tries.I often considered using an old iron but never had one handy inna sign shop.
Hope this helps ya!
------------------ fly low...timi/NC is,.....Tim Barrow Barrow Art Signs members.xoom.com/Signz
[This message has been edited by timi NC (edited April 11, 1999).]
Posted by Jordan Sign Company (Member # 230) on :
Damn good tricks! I gots a few I been usin over ther years! Use soft charcoal sticks to draw out letter layouts on paper signs, then letter.....then wipe off charcoal after leaving no lines or marks. Use Baby powder instead of white chaulk for pouncing, smells a little bit but is a far greater to get thru the holes. Use old wool socks for pounce bags, tie at top wif a thick rubber band, not to tight. Take an aluminum 24, 36 or 48" ruler, put in sheet metal brake and give it about a 15 degree "dimple" the long way, makes it twice as stiff for layouts and knife dragging When making a long "arc" tape or tack one end of string down, then at the other end do the same and let the string fall down to the desired arc; then lightly follow the line wif a charcoal stick to mark; then percolate and turn over and you have a perfect arc; dont ferget to mark the center either. Our weeding table is 3 x 20 feet, transfer tape is on rollers at the end up about a foot, both 15 and 30". We find that just weeding anything wifout trying to save vinyl is less time spent also we cahrge for every foot of vinyl as we go along. Vinyl is taped to metal bench along a straight guide, then transfer tape laid down, using just your hands to rub it down at first, then a squeegie, then pull lines across legends to mark, then cut and is ready for any truck door or background.
More stuff; When gilding plastic or wood letters; Use slow size cuz it gives ya more time to gild. Always use loose surface gold because it's twice the brilliancy. Just lay the gold out of tyhe books and let them fall on the letters as they may, gently pat down wif fingers. Before you start, use clean white paper under letters, just flood more and more gold over the letters, dont be stingy, let it go, and then you'll have lotsa loose gold all over.....then take a one inch cutter (fitch" and pick up some of that loose gold layin there and punch it in to the crevices and crannies, and by all means SAVE the loose gold, gather it up and put it in an open box, we just dip the cutter in this box allatime and pick up more gold and apply it to the letters. DO NOT stick yer fingers on any part of the letyter which aint gots no gold on it! Takes a lot of patience but in all reality you will save a lot of gold by saving the gold dust. Sooner or later you'll have quite a bit to use on the next gild. JackSign
Servicing Interior Illuminated Signs; First Rule; Total relamp sign, then look for broken wires, check voltage wif a voltage tester, make sure it has ample power 120 volt. Check sockets, raceways and if is okay, probly needs new ballasts. Cheapest thing to do is to TOTAL relamp sign first! By the way, total length of a HO lamp is measured and marked using the total length of the lamp itself, and the sockets to determine the size, not just the physical measurement of said lamp.
To give an attractive finish to vinyl banners sitting at ground level (like the ones you see on golf tee boxes on corporate days), after attaching to star pickets, slide a peice of 6 inch polypipe like plumbers use with an attractive cap on top of it cut at a few inches higher than the banner. First you have to cut a split the length of the tube to allow it to go over the ropes. I hope I have made myself clear, it's kinda hard to explain without drawing it.
------------------ Drane Signs Nambour, Qld.
Posted by Steve Shortreed (Member # 436) on :
Here's a basic carpenter and sign painter trick that we always assume everyone knows. Never assume. I'm always amazed at the number of new people in the trade who have never seen this one.
The comman yardstick is one of the most important layout tools in any sign shop. It's not only a great measuring tool, but with a little practise, it will soon be your only way to render guidelines. Look at this photo below.
The yardstick is grasped firmly in your left hand and your first finger is used as a guide to follow an edge. Meanwhile, your right hand holds a pencil or similar marking tool against the top of your yardstick duplicating the edge your left hand is following. Substitute a brush or knife for your pencil and you'll soon wonder how you ever got by measuring and joining two points in the past.
You'll find you use this technique, with variations, to quickly layout guide lines using the bottom of a truck door, to paint a border around your signs, trimming vinyl...the list goes on. Master your yardstick!
[This message has been edited by Steve Shortreed (edited April 11, 1999).]
[This message has been edited by Steve Shortreed (edited April 11, 1999).]
Posted by jack wills (Member # 521) on :
Tips
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Posted by Brett Baker (Member # 712) on :
Heres a couple for you.Any of you who use urethane clear have probably used a small amout of yor catalyst then a week later found the rest of the can turned to jello.Some folks put it in the frig but that only slows it down alittle.What causes it is oxygen.I take the can to my mig welder,turn off the wire feeder and blow CO2 or argon in the can to purge the oxygen."I have no welder"you say?Put a straw just inside can.Loosely cover top of can around straw,repeatedly blow in can purging oxygen.We exhale CO2.This will not last as long as using bottled CO2 but will buy you quite a bit of time. Nuther one.A post above mentioned static.Whether its metal,wood or plastic if you run a jumper wire to a good earth ground (water pipe works good)you will cut way down n static.You can tape it to the back of plastic or wood.Doesn't sound like it wold work on nonconductive materials,but the static charge is on the surface and will feed to ground!(Ever got zapped on doorknob?)I ground every vehicle we paint. Add to post on dragging out tiny bubbles(name of a song,isn't it?),a foam brush works great too. Nuther add.Added to using newspaper for glass cleaning.For overspray removal use newsprint dampened with laquer thinner.It works because newsprint paper is very fibrous and slightly abrasive. Fast masking of parts.Ever had to paint something that has parts that might get overspray but a paint to mask?Blow some spray grease on them.Wheen your done painting you can just wash off the paint an grease,and any grease overspray on work area will come ff with your prep-sol before painting. Gotta paint a banner or some kinda of vinyl and not sure if it will stick?Put some acetonein a spray gun and blow a mist coat on it and spray your color immediately.The acetone starts melting te material and the paint bites into it.You can also apply with lint free rag bt put no pressure on it or you will literally smear the material.It's a good idea if you,ve never done this to do a sample piece first. I'll think of more later i'm sure
------------------
Brett Baker mavrikjet@aol.com
Posted by jack wills (Member # 521) on :
OOPs! Sorry about the double post. Here's an old brush shrarpening trick. First, start out with a brand new razor blade. Tape the blade to the edge of a table or something straight that you can align the blade to. Leave just a smidgin'( took a while to learn the spelling ) of the blade (sharp edge)hanging out. Maybe a 1/16th or so. Now, assuming that the brush is clean....Take the hair and flatten out by running through the fingers, Now lay the flattened hairs on the razor blade edge with as little as possible hangin' over that edge. Then you take a piece of 400 to 600 grade sandpaper and go at a 45% angle across the tip of the brush which has barely a few hairs showing over the edge of the razor blade very lightly. try not to repeat the steps too often in one sitting. The objective is to have a nice straight brush tip without bruising the hair of that brush. Try it on a old brush first. I've done this for many a year, it's worked well for me. Another Tip. To make sure the roller you use is not all full of lint. Take a piece of transfer tape and lay it upside down, then roll across with your roller cover. You should get a decent coat of paint this way. Don't forget to strain it. Best Tip. Here's one that took quite awhile to learn. "How to have confidence about making money at the business." It's all about commanding what you feel you deserve. If you command,you do not demand. Commanding simply means that when you apply the dynamics of business,then that will automatically command that you should gain a profit from all your hard work. If you do not ask for the right price for your work, you will never get it. I really started doing my best work once that I discovered,not only did the customer like what I was doing for them but they were will ing to pay me right as well. It has nothing to do with the customer. It is only about your personal mindset. My best days are when I'm billing or collecting. It makes all the Artsy fartsy stuff worthwhile.Try it,you'll like it. L.O.L. Thanks to Dave,for a neat topic. ..............................CrazyJack
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Posted by Brett Baker (Member # 712) on :
Just posted another tip under post Cearing One Shot.I type with 2 fingers so iI Ain't doin' it again here.Take a look.
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Brett Baker mavrikjet@aol.com
Posted by Jim K in NC (Member # 207) on :
Great idea Dave and some great tips already. But Day 1 ain't even done and we're up to 25 already. Anybody think maybe we need to break this into different categories before it gets unmanagable. Just an idea.
------------------ Jim Kokiko "Ko" as in coke, "ki" as in kite, "ko" as in coke SignDesign Goldsboro, NC 27530 919-734-SIGN jwk@pindigital.net
Posted by George Perkins (Member # 156) on :
When striping or doing graphics on a vehicle, after you get one side laid down, draw the design/ designs on the window. When you go around to the other side there they are already reversed out. A clear piece of plastic can also be used, or a marker on paper held up to a light source.
------------------ George Perkins Millington,TN. goatwell@ixlmemphis.com
"A sunset is not so grand if you're driving due west"
Posted by Brett Baker (Member # 712) on :
I have agreat tip about pricing on custom work.Let the customer tell you all about what they want.I.e.had a customer want murals on both sides of big winabago of a guy flyng a paraplane out of the sun.After he showed me pictures I knew we could do this job super realistic for about 1800.00 total.ThenI flat out asked him what he wanted to spend! I told him we could do it with brushes and oneshot for about 500.00 but would be cartoony or we could do it with dozens of colors,kandys and pearls,photo realistic for 3200.00.He has to decide what he wants to spend.This alows you to decide what your willing to do for his budgeted price and eel him ou to e if hehas a clue as to what this type of work is worth.This keeps you from underpricing a job and finding out what he is willing to spend without him thinking you just want to get allof his money.I used this guy as an example because it also shows how you can save your time too.After giving him the options be very embarresedly told me he thought that he could get a photo realistic job for a couple hundred bucks.By giving him options from 500 to 3200 he could see how obviously more involved photo realism will cost,and was not offended by a high price and go bother other painters looking for a 200.00 job.When people ask me if we need work,I tell them I never need work,I need money!Get what your worth everytime,and it will be easy to get what yur worth the next time.
------------------
Brett Baker mavrikjet@aol.com
Posted by Donna in BC (Member # 130) on :
To measure curved tanks on trucks or other curved areas: Purchase a fabric measuring tape at a fabric store. Attach masking tape across the start of the tape and attach to the bottom of the tank. Then climp up on your ladder and proceed to measure what you need to.
Organizing your road trip. Find a fabric wrapped binder with a velcro closure, and a place to put pens, etc.
Inside, place tabs with subjects such as Quotes, Invoices, Vehicle Templates, Contracts, Workorders, Plain Paper, etc. Fill up these sections with the appropriate paper work.
In a back flap on the binder, place your color charts, large sketch paper for taking stencils. In the front cover, place your pens, calculator, masking tape, tape measure, biz cards, map.
Always have this book near the door so you're ready to run at a moment's notice. Invaluable!
Organizing your toolcase Make a list of everything you need in your toolcase at all times. Attach the list to the inside of the lid. When you get called out, quickly open the case and read the list, checking to ensure you didn't steal from your own case while working. When the phone is ringing and you're late for an appointment, the list will save you everytime.
Mobile packing In Costo, you can purchase these plastic shelves with large plastic drawers, and you can choose to stack them as high as you want in your shop. I personally keep my vinyl pinstripes in these drawers, so they are easy to store in the shop and easy to pack in the back of my truck in a moment's notice. Other great ideas would be paper towels, rags, heatgun etc. with a list attached inside the drawer for reference.
Cutting radius corners on thick stripes Purchase one of those plastic templates with different sized circles, and a washable felt pen. When you need perfect radius corners on the stripes, place a circle template in the corner of your stripe and proceed to draw and cut your perfect corner.
An idea if the list grows too long Dave, what about Tips and Tricks for Mon April 12, etc.
------------------ Donna with Graphic Impact, BC Canada aka "signmaker" on mirc gisigns@sprint.ca
[This message has been edited by Donna in BC (edited April 11, 1999).]
Posted by Tim Whitcher (Member # 685) on :
Dave, Boy! Does this list take a long time to load! How about posting a new post headed: "tips & Tricks Part 2"? I'm positive they'll keep rollin' in!
Tip #231
Add a space to your invoices to include a "contact" name (we file all our invoices by company name where appropriate). That way, you always have the name of the person directly involved in the project for future reference. Great for follow up sales calls and especially late payments! We also include a blank for the computer file name and file format.
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Posted by Lee Hulick (Member # 1112) on :
I spent three and a hlf years as a rock band's roadie and never lost a case. I stripe now-a-days and use the same method of numbering ALL my cases/boxes and ALWAYS put EVERYTHING in one. ALWAYS load my car in numbered order and unload backwards. I currently carry seven cases/items while my summer carshow schedule. I only carry three to a customer's to stripe, so I arranged that those three were 1, 2 and 3. As long as I stay sober enough to count up to seven, I won't forget anything.
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Posted by Rod Le Lievre (Member # 392) on :
Since we use small amounts of paint some times. Use plastic teaspoons to put in to cups/tins. (The type you use at parties) If put handle first in a tin, they dry to be reused.
------------------ Wet Paint (Rodl) We all find time to do what we really want to. WILLIAM FEATHER
Posted by Mark Fair Signs (Member # 289) on :
It's showcard season in the springtime here at mark fair signs. I do a lot of showcard work for alabama state agencies this time of year for annual meetings and conventions. I use a combination of vinyl and paint. when hinging vinyl use application tape instead of masking tape.(masking tape will pull the surface of the cardstock up.(14 ply cresent board) also a must is to wash hands good so you won't smudge the cardstock with oil from your fingers. if you do smudge, take a little talcum powder and it will absorb any oil on the surface of the card. mark
------------------ Mark Fair Signs Home of The "Sign of the Month" Awards www.markfair.com 2162 Mt. Meigs Road Montgomery, Alabama 36107 334-262-4449 "I Love My Job"
Posted by Steve Shortreed (Member # 436) on :
Wow! How's this for Day One? Thanks to all of you for sharing this stuff with us. We'll be saving all this info to create a whole new page here at The Letterhead Website. Present and future users will have access to this valuable asset for all time.
Make any future tip posts under the Day Two thread and then carry on under the Day 3 topic. That way we can keep loading times tolerable.
To save this thread to your own hard drive, just click on File...then Save As. Now give the file a name such as Tips_Day1 and save it to a folder such as My Documents. Make sure you save it as a htm or html doc.
To save the photos just right click on the pic you want and select Save Picture As. Now go ahead and save it in your directory of choice. Keep em comin!
