So I'm ask the unasked question. I thought, from the first use of powder-coating that paint had a difficult time grabbing hold. I've tried scuffing, catylising, and such. When it leaves the shop it looks fine. Occasionally I hear back that it flaked on use of object. I didn't really care as objects were decorative in nature. I just striped a farm implement (see my fb post) that was some 11 feet long. I don't think any farmer is worried about his orchard mower once he got all the awards possible and its in use. But the sheer size of this means that we will (and are) facing more powder-coated stuff. What should we do to get paint to stick?? Jerry Barlow - Artworx
Posted by Gerald Barlow (Member # 3477) on :
I got an instant call from Wild Bill Signs in Michigan about this. He suggested using a product, "Flash Bond" from XIM. I will look it up and try it. Sounds like something called Bulldog Adhesion Promoter, used in th4 auto body trade. Airesol, used as an inter-coat bo0nding clear. Any comments?
Posted by Gerald Barlow (Member # 3477) on :
Not getting much support here. guys. I looked up Flash Bond and it's not available, yet still listed as a product in Rustoleum line. There is a new product called Flex Bond that might be what the maker changed it into. Similar code number. It is not clear but white. Water-base, but out of stock too. Bulldog is available but very expensive and only gallons and 15 oz. spray cans ($40). Does anyone know more? So many things are powder-coated these days.
Posted by Rick Sacks (Member # 379) on :
I had a guy bring in a plastic trash can last week and I couldn't get paint to stick to it. I tried coating it with tie-bond and then tried using the Krylon paint for plastics. I tried enamels and acrylics. I think these cans are a polypropylene. Dark green Ace cans.
Posted by Ken Henry (Member # 598) on :
Hi Rick. Regarding your problem trash can, you might have success if you "flame treated" the surface you intended to letter. Typically, moulded plastics are made in a press and the surface of that press has a silicone coating to assist in the release of the moulded item. Enough of that silicone transfers and gets imbeded into the plastic. By lightly passing a blowtorch over the area, the silicone gets burned off, and the flame treated area becomes paint or vinyl receptive. Works on construction safety hats too.
Posted by Rick Sacks (Member # 379) on :
I've scuffed the surface of powder coating with a fine scotchbrite pad and had lettering stick. A truck came by yesterday that had some of this don a year ago and it still looked good.
Posted by Gerald Barlow (Member # 3477) on :
Yeah Rick, IIf I know where the stripe is going to be scuffing works fine. Problem with this job is that it requires freehand decorative lines on a glossy area. I can't tell where I'm going. I did try "Buldog" adhesion promoter and it works well. I just have to do extra jobs to pay the loan payment for the cost.
Posted by Rick Sacks (Member # 379) on :
Where did you get this Bulldog? How big and how much $? How did you apply it? Please tell us about it.
Posted by Gerald Barlow (Member # 3477) on :
I got it from (drum roll...)O'Reilly's. Ebay has it, Amazon has it, Walmart has it.. Independent auto paint distributors have it. I got it from Walmart because they delivered quickly, in three days. They are not the cheapest. It comes in spray cans for about 25 dollars. I also bought a quart for about 70 dollars. I got the spray can because of the big farm project I did, but the quart is much more cost effective. You can see the work on my facebook page. It comes clear and white, I chose the clear. It can be sprayed or wiped and then becomes invisible, but adds "tooth" to the plastic coating. I have had people with coated bike frames and various automotive parts ask for decorative lines and this is .I guess the only way to make anything stick to that surface. I'm gonna wear rubber gloves. It's a poly-something chemical so I'll be careful with it. Nuff said?
