I have a customer, those younger folks that spend a huge amount for hiring a designer to do their branding. They get a book telling them the colors they can use and the fonts and the relationships of each line of text and the logo in proportions.
The new signs they wanted were on knotty pine, letters routed in and painted. I know clear finishes don't last, so I suggested a clear penetration oil. Did the signs, and now four months later they sent a photo of what looks like a black mold on the surface. They also said they applied a clear marine UV varnish.
What I'm wondering is if anyone knows a way to fix this and prevent it from continuing? We're heading down there on Wednesday, and I plan on bringing a spray bottle of bleach. I'd probably use Clorox 'cause that's what we have...but there might be a stronger version that I don't know how or where to get?
Any helpful ideas appreciated.
Posted by Gerald Barlow (Member # 3477) on :
Make it out of sign foam and faux the grain. Jer
Posted by Alicia B. Jennings (Member # 1272) on :
I did some natural wood signs for a BBQ place up here. It's at the Washington State Fairgrounds and its a log cabin. The signs and the cabin is coated with Sikkens,, Sikkens SRD Trans Wood Finish The can I have reads Sikkens, but I think PPG owns the bran now.
Posted by Alicia B. Jennings (Member # 1272) on :
Hey, everything gets dirty after awhile.
Posted by Ken Henry (Member # 598) on :
Hi Rick. As an alternative stain remover, I'd suggest using Oxylic Acid. It comes in white crystals that you dissolve in water. Use rubber gloves when using, as this stuff can cause skin burns.Available at Home Depot.Here's some further information I found on line:
Oxalic acid can be used as a bleaching agent for both wood and stone. Wood, when exposed to the elements, can turn gray. When oxalic acid is applied on an old and graying wood floor, it brings back the wood floor’s natural white color. Actually, this acid is often used when preparing to stain old wood floors.
