I appreciate all the info I received on my earlier questions. I felt well equipped and trundled over to the job ready to do battle. I had obtained a sample of the sunbrella fabric from the awning guy and the techniques worked quite well. When I got to the job I found that the "new" sunbrella was nothing like the sample I'd been given. That was the old covering. This stuff is very "hairy". Like trying to apply vinyl to a shaved dog. I tried heat as a helper and it didn't help at all. I'm flusterated. I can't get the job down and on a table, but that wouldn't help the texture of the covering. even orange masking tape won't stick to it. I'm considering shaving the hairs off to get down to the base material. (Stop laughing!) WHat's the answer, other than hand lettering with a pounced pattern?? Jer, signguy@turlocksigns.com
Posted by John Arnott (Member # 215) on :
The only way that I have found is to just pounce and letter 3 coats.....bill accordingly! There doesn't seem to be any alternative.
Posted by Rick Sacks (Member # 379) on :
I have not seen their new material. I laughed when reading shaving, but then again, I think one of those electric shavers might be worth a test patch. Not that I'm familiar with shavers though.
Posted by Rick Sacks (Member # 379) on :
Have you tried Fab Tac? https://fabtac.com/ Posted by Gerald Barlow (Member # 3477) on :
I was called after the awnings were all installed (there are six). Fabtec requires ironing and the shapes will not allow this. If the awnings were removed I might be able to work over a table end but I haven't been able to get this to happen. I think that the owner/customer and the awning guy think my expertise is a degree in magic and I can just make the lettering "appear". I certainly know I can make it disappear.
Posted by Ian Stewart-Koster (Member # 3500) on :
aerosol spray can in a graffitti script font? Posted by Gerald Barlow (Member # 3477) on :
Nice idea but I can't get the mask to stay down either. That's my quandry.
Posted by Rick Sacks (Member # 379) on :
can you clamp a stiff board behind the fabric?
Posted by Gerald Barlow (Member # 3477) on :
I made a board-and-handle to hold behind...but the problem is that the vinyl won't stick to the fabric. Too much fuzz.
Posted by Rick Sacks (Member # 379) on :
Just letter it and be done. You do know how to do that.
Posted by Ron Percell (Member # 399) on :
Prime letter areas with varnish based Gold size. Gold size will vulcanized to texture well, and has great expansion and contraction value.
I used this successfully on Rhino-lined surfaces also. Once Gold size is dry apply your graphics or vinyl.
Posted by David Harding (Member # 108) on :
I've lettered over a thousand Sunbrella awnings the last couple decades but I haven't run into any "hairy" material yet. That doesn't mean I won't and it also doesn't mean that my technique that I'll outline below will work.
I use high performance cast vinyl as my stencil material. It has the flexibility to conform the best. I also use a hair dryer to help stick it down. Wrap material works well. I prefer it to FabTac because I can also use it for lettering and it doesn't leave a sticky residue like FabTac sometime does in my experience.
I paint two "primer" coats of 100% acrylic that is the same color as the background. Once the first coat dries, it helps keep the vinyl stuck down.
I paint three coats of the finish color. After the first coat, I lightly sand the surface with some open mesh drywall abrasive.
I generally use Behr Premium Plus from Home Depot since it has a 2 hour recoat time.
I hope this helps... and I hope I don't run into any Sasquatch Sunbrella like you have. My techniques might not work.
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