So, we've been trying to make the switch over to the acrylics from enamels. Sometimes it works, other times provide that dreaded learning curve. We've been using a vinyl paint mask for years with great results using enamels and peel the mask as soon as the paint tacks up. Working it with acrylics is the challenge. The paint almost immediately forms a surface bond that peels up the paint on the letters in blotches. The time touching it up makes it comparable with just lettering it with a brush in the first place. Does it need to cure for days before lifting the mask? Is there a mask that's best for the acrylics? Not sure what the adhesive is that I'm using.
Posted by Felix Marcano (Member # 1833) on :
Not the answer you're looking for, but how about running an Xacto along the edge before peeling?
Posted by Joe Cieslowski (Member # 2429) on :
Are you using HDU?
Carved signs or flat?
Does the paint peal right down to the substraight?
Joe
Makin Chips and Havin Fun!
Posted by Rick Sacks (Member # 379) on :
I'm talking about MDO. The lettering color peels up leaving the background and choppy edges. When I peel the mask the surface of the lettering color doesn't break where it bridges the mask in spots.
Posted by Joe Cieslowski (Member # 2429) on :
Got it......
I can't help, sorry.
Joe,
Makin Chips and Havin Fun~
Posted by bruce ward (Member # 1289) on :
If I do some wall painting and are using mask or tape i learned to rip that stuff off after painting over it....I mean right after I paint on it. Its a PITA, sometimes you dont have that luxury to paint and peel quickly
Posted by Jean Shimp (Member # 198) on :
I agree with Bruce - peel the mask off immediately! Had the same problem the other day when I peeled off the mask it took off parts of the letter. The paint had dried too quickly. Had to go back and touch up. The sign was double sided. When I did the second side I worked in smaller sections and added water to the paint. Worked much better this way. Latex is a funny animal. We've been using several brands to try to find one we like. The DTM (direct to metal)by Richards is what we like because it dries fast and has a hard skin once dried. We typically spray this paint. For brushing or rolling it's not good so far because it dries too fast. We're still experimenting with Floetrol additives to get it more user friendly. I use intermediate vinyl by 3M for a paint mask. (Make sure the vinyl is not old or it leaves a residue behind.)
Posted by Raymond Chapman (Member # 361) on :
Are you painting over a latex background?
I don't use a lot of paint mask, but when I do I will roll or brush on a coat of the background color inside the mask to seal the edges to prevent bleeding under the mask. Because of the heat in Texas, the paint dries quickly and then I roll or brush on a coat of the finish color. The mask is removed immediately.
So far, I haven't had the peeling problem.
I use Sherwin Williams Duration (Satin) for the background and Nova Color (Satin) for the lettering, small panels and trim.
Gerber Mask is normally what I use, but have also use some other brands at times.
Posted by Raymond Chapman (Member # 361) on :
Are you painting over a latex background?
I don't use a lot of paint mask, but when I do I will roll or brush on a coat of the background color inside the mask to seal the edges to prevent bleeding under the mask. Because of the heat in Texas, the paint dries quickly and then I roll or brush on a coat of the finish color. The mask is removed immediately.
So far, I haven't had the peeling problem.
I use Sherwin Williams Duration (Satin) for the background and Nova Color (Satin) for the lettering, small panels and trim.
Gerber Mask is normally what I use, but have also use some other brands at times.
