Hey guys. I just got a couple pretty decent sign gold jobs. I remember someone many moons ago saying that sign gold edges should be sealed. Was this just to get you to buy a certain clearcoat pen? I really don't like the way it looks when you have a clear coat edge. Any input will be appreciated. Thanks!
Posted by Curt Stenz (Member # 82) on :
I used 'signgold' on a semi tractor over 15 years ago, I saw it a few months ago (up close) and it was fine. I did install it with an outline, being I cut the outline as a solid graphic and applied the gold with no edge seal right on top of the solid 3M high performance Electrocut® vinyl. The colored vinyl was cracking and fading but the gold is fine.
My thoughts are that this stuff is like iron.
Posted by Dave Grundy (Member # 103) on :
I used quite a lot of SignGold over the years and never bothered with edge sealing. Never had a failure on signs, boats nor vehicles.
The only failure occurred when a marina, against my advice, had me apply SignGold to a boat and then clearcoated the entire boat. The clearcoat peeled off the Teflon/Tedlar coating of the SignGold within a couple of weeks. (That was before SignGold came out with the product that could be clearcoated). Their mistake cost them quite a few bucks to repair.
Posted by Don Hulsey (Member # 128) on :
The only time I have used SignGold was on my van. When I first lettered it I didn't have the pen so I sealed the edges with OneShot clear and a quill. Within 1 year the SignGold started to lift in several areas. I called SignGold and they replaced the material and suggested that I NOT seal the edges. That was in 2006 and it still looks good today.
I do not know if it was because of the edge sealing or if the first material had a problem of it's own but if I use any more I will not seal the edges.
Posted by Rick Sacks (Member # 379) on :
I've had no problems not sealing edges of Sign Gold or the product from that new company that claims they invented the stuff. My experience is that clears usually break down first.
Posted by Jean Shimp (Member # 198) on :
I don't typically edge seal either. But to be safe you could apply the gold to the surface and then apply a vinyl outline on top of the gold for an automatic edge seal. If the lettering will be subject to a lot of washing, this might help keep the edges safe.
Posted by Dave Sherby (Member # 698) on :
I'd go with Real Gold. Longer warranty, lower price, great service, they now have a silver, and no edge sealing. I'll say one ting whether you use Sign Gold or Real Gold, I always install it on top of regular HP vinyl. Either brand is a real bitch to remove. With HP vinyl underneath it comes off easy.
Posted by Dave Draper (Member # 102) on :
I used Sign Gold on a an interior display sign for customers to see in the shop. I didn't seal the edges, but within a few months it turned splotchy, like mold was growing underneath.
I remember posting about the problem (had to be 10 years ago) and the only thing anybody could tell me in theory was that since I overlaid the sign gold on a sign painted with a latex finish, it probably wicked moisture through the paint to the back side of the sign gold.
I still have the sign, it hangs in my house now, the edges are still down tight, one of the letters looks pretty good, and the other letters have the splotchy brown dotty stains.
The sign sort of looks antiquey now and fine for sign that would hang in a Cracker Barrel restaurant, but for a business sign it would have to be replaced for material failure.
So maybe, just maybe, part of the failure problem is what surface you are putting the sign gold on.
