I v-carved some letters into black walnut with a brand-new 120 degree bit but the surfaces aren't too smooth. I sanded them with a little piece of sandpaper but still not too smooth but steel wool gotr them looking pretty decent now.. What primer and paint would you use to coat these before sizing and leafing? Fsc88 and Oneshot? Thanks
[ May 02, 2017, 01:47 PM: Message edited by: Wayne Webb ]
Posted by old paint (Member # 549) on :
its really a dark wood. i would take a piece of the scrap, and try a couple different things. 1. KILZ OIL BASE 2.KILZ WATER BASE 3.if you have any(in quarts/pint)automotive primer sealer. 4.you base for the gold is gona be a yellow iam thinking so you gota get the area your leafing with no dark wood showin thru.
Posted by Dave Sherby (Member # 698) on :
I wouldn't bother with Kilz water base primer. Used it on my house and the paint is peeling in less than 2 years. I'm not all that impressed with oil based Kilz either. Also any water based primer is going to raise the grain so that also eliminates FSC88. Didn't you used to sandblast redwood Wayne? Did you ever use First step sealer/primer? That stuff is awesome. The problem is it's expensive and only sold in gallons. If you don't use it fast enough, when the can gets below half full it turns to jelly. Very strong smell too. But if you have it, that would be my first choice. After that I would go to Sherwin Williams best oil based primer, then One Shot with hardener. The hardener really makes the One Shot glass smooth. Actually I personally would use Ronan Lettering Enamel because I don't buy One Shot anymore. Ronan's quality hasn't diminished as much as One Shot since the lead went bye bye. But since you'll have size and gold on top of the One Shot it will surely hold up better than One Shot as a finish coat. A trick I learned at a letterhead meet is to paint your letters black. Then wipe on some kaolin powder. It makes the black turn light grey, and totally disappears when the size is applied. It is very obvious when you miss a spot with the size, and the black paint makes holidays pop so you can cover them. One other hint, don't try the mask method and then airbrushing the size. It's too easy to get the size too thin. Don't ask. But the paint mask idea does work good for brushing in the size. I used Avery paint mask and it worked great.
Posted by John Arnott (Member # 215) on :
Wayne...I just V carved letters into walnut. It had some fuzzies in the letters, so I sprayed it with shellac before removing it from home and waited a few minutes and cut it again. This cuts off all the fuzzies and ready to finish.
Posted by Wayne Webb (Member # 1124) on :
Great info guys! thanks Joe, Dave and John!
Posted by Wayne Webb (Member # 1124) on :
Hopefully, a week from now, these will be bound for Kazakhstan. Posted by Rick Sacks (Member # 379) on :
Wayne, Is there any finish on the surface of the wood? I've used a sanding sealer on the entire board, then prime and size and gild. The sanding sealer would breakdown and go away in a short time where it's exposed.
Posted by Wayne Webb (Member # 1124) on :
No, these are bare wood right now. What brand/type of sealer do you use? Can i get it at wallymart? Posted by DianeBalch (Member # 1301) on :
I always add a tiny amount yellow one shot to my sizing, so you can see where it is,... I think MINWAX makes a sanding sealer.
Diane
Posted by Chuck Peterson (Member # 70) on :
I use SealCoat for sanding sealer. Unwaxed shellac.
![[Smile]](smile.gif)