Hi everyone. Haven't done anything 3D in a real, real long time. I have a little project in the making, and wanted to add some smalts. Where are you guys buying the stuff nowadays?
Posted by Glenn Taylor (Member # 162) on :
I've been getting mine mostly from artisan-signs.net.
I also use qhfonline.com.
Posted by Felix Marcano (Member # 1833) on :
Thanks! Felix
Posted by David Harding (Member # 108) on :
Ron and Kristi Percell at Letterhead Sign Supply have a large selection of colors and expertise.
Posted by Mark M. Kottwitz (Member # 1764) on :
quote:Originally posted by Glenn Taylor: I've been getting mine mostly from artisan-signs.net.
Yep, good selection and the prices are not too bad...
And Keith sells sample packs, showing all the available colors.
Posted by Preston McCall (Member # 351) on :
I did a frame recently and used some black glitter as smalts. Looks great and has some prismatic effect. Cheap at Hobby Lobby. Years ago I did a sign where I used crushed up briquets BBQ. Worked out great after I screen it with a typical window screen. Used clear polyurethane varnish and it has held up well over the years.
Posted by DianeBalch (Member # 1301) on :
I used fishtank gravel for a blue smaltzy like background
Posted by Felix Marcano (Member # 1833) on :
Hi guys. Reviving this old post. I never put smalts on that sign I wrote about. However, I have 7 signs almost made and we have to go with smalts for sure. I contacted Letterheadsignsupply and never got a response. I've been in touch with artisan-signs.net, and they've been responsive (Not lightning fast, but they've been responsive). Anywhoo, I remember doing these both with Smiths cream / 1 shot, and tinted epoxy. Since I can't get 1 shot in PR anymore, and I don't want to ship hazmat due to crazy freight fees, I'm going the epoxy route. A question: Other than 1 shot, has anyone used any other paint to tint epoxy? If so, which one? I don't want to have some funky reaction and ruin the job. Thanks! Felix
Posted by Alicia B. Jennings (Member # 1272) on :
Ah, what this line? Since I can't get 1 shot in PR anymore What does that mean? You can't get 1-Shot in Puerto Rico? What if one of your good friends shipped some to you from here? As for tinting, Automotive paint? Spray Can Paint? Screening Inks? Seems like you have to become a chemist to overcome some the environmental safety obstacles we encounter. I just used some Everclear Grain Alcohol to restore some dried Silver Polish.
Posted by Si Allen (Member # 420) on :
Felix ... epoxy works even better then 1Shot & Smiths Cream!
Posted by Felix Marcano (Member # 1833) on :
Hi guys. Alicia, don't worry. I spoke to a guy that told me I could actually get some tint tubes for West Systems epoxy in West Marine. Si, glad to hear that epoxy works better. This job is going beachfront, so I need the most durable finish. By the way, I'm looking for a new source of Smalts. I've not heard from Artisan Signs anymore. I also callled and emailed letterhead sign supply, and I've not heard a peep. What's going on? People don't want money anymore?
[ August 22, 2018, 05:06 PM: Message edited by: Felix Marcano ]
Posted by Bob Moroney (Member # 9498) on :
I ordered smaltz from letterhead supply online and received it 2 weeks.
Posted by Bruce Bowers (Member # 892) on :
I have used Black Beauty sandblasting medium for black smaltz. It worked great.
For the binder, I used black bulletin with linseed oil. It is slow drying but it works well.
I never used the epoxy but I might try that..
Posted by Bob Kaschak (Member # 3146) on :
I would avoid using straight epoxy as a binder, due to the fact that epoxy has no UV blockers and the smalts will eventually break free from the epoxy, from exposure to the sun.
I would suggest an oil based alkyd paint mixed with hold fast oil (Smith's cream). It dries slowly (which you want), which allows you to brush a slightly heavier coat of paint/hold fast oil (then you normally would for regular painting). this slightly heavier coat holds the smalts well.
Best of luck, Bob
[ August 23, 2018, 07:50 AM: Message edited by: Bob Kaschak ]
Posted by Rick Sacks (Member # 379) on :
Felix, when I first learned to do this we mixed equal parts of varnish, white lead, and lettering enamel. This mixture was called smudge. We'd gild the letters and go a bit sloppy wild, then cut in the background with the smudge. We'd use a big coffee can with nail holes in the bottom to sift the smalt onto the panel and get it on rather thick and not touch it for three days. Then slowly tilt it to drain excess smalt onto sheets of newspaper to re capture it for later use.
Posted by DianeBalch (Member # 1301) on :
First paint the background. I have used west systems epoxy tinted with the background color. I put it on thick all over the surface. Then pour on the smaltz- thick layer. LEt it sit For 24 hours. Then put a tarp on the floor, and tip the sign over . The tarp,will save the excess. I have bought the smarts from Letterhead sign supply. It is the end of summer, maybe they closed for summer vacation.
Diqne
Posted by Dave Sherby (Member # 698) on :
I've been using epoxy for years. PB Resin and West System have UV inhibitors in them. I've always used PB Resin without a single failure. Outlasted One Shot with Smith's Cream big time. West System should also work as strip canoes and boats are their main focus. Wouldn't be a very good boat if the sun destroyed the epoxy.
