Personally, I think this is way cool, but others might think I smoked too much stuff years ago. Whatever, about 10 years ago, I had this idea of making faux rivets as part of a vehicle graphics scheme. I was going to use a round mask and an airbrush. Now, I’ve decided that fake plastic rivets would be better looking (They'll be painted the same color as the truck). I got these at 30 for 69 cents; they’re probably Teddy Bear eyes. I sanded the backs and glued them on with waterproof adhesive. I haven’t finished the other body work yet, but I was itchin’ to see how this would look. I've had problems posting pictures here before; if they don't show, go to the link provided. Restore Blog Posted by Dan Sawatzky (Member # 88) on :
I love rivets and we use them often. On indoor display we have used those plastic google eyes previously. They can be had at any hobby store and most craft stores. The larger ones even have a peel and stick adhesive.
Posted by James Donahue (Member # 3624) on :
AHA! Total vindication...(my kids have mixed reactions to the project)
Posted by Ian Stewart-Koster (Member # 3500) on :
Looks good/interesting, James. A conversation starter! I've also bought google eyes and used them on sign projects...
Posted by James Donahue (Member # 3624) on :
What's interesting, besides the fact that I totally forgot about Dan's work; is that I searched for "fake rivets" or something like that, and found nothing easy. There were conversations about cutting off carriage bolt heads and using those, but nothing easy. I actually was wondering if I invented it.
Posted by DianeBalch (Member # 1301) on :
James, what kind/brand of adhesive did you use?
Diane
Posted by Rusty Bradley (Member # 6938) on :
Just think of all the Teddy Bears that will never see...and that's sad.
Posted by James Donahue (Member # 3624) on :
Dianne, the first thing I did was to take steel wool to the existing paint on the truck. I sanded the back of each half bead, then used Goop brand plumbing adhesive. I hope it works; they seemed on really solid. I had to test that because the next step was to take a small wire brush to the tops. Everything must have microscopic scratches in order for paint or adhesives to stick to the previously glossy surface. It was a lot faster to wire brush them after they were glued on. Then I sprayed them with grey primer, which is surprisingly similar to the aged silver paint. Getting a system down is obviously important, the slowest part is picking up each half bead. They're only 8mm wide, and I guess all the restoration work I do makes my hands a bit coarse. Anyway,what I'm contemplating is a small box, no top, 3 sides. Maybe a grippy type floor, something rubbery. That way, I can shake the box full of half beads side to side, and some of them will turn over, with the flat side facing up. They're a lot faster to pick up that way. It might also help to have a flexible pre-marked tape like tool. That way, I wouldn't have to look for 1 and a half, 3, 4 and a half, 6, etc. Not a huge time saver, but everything helps.
Posted by Ian Stewart-Koster (Member # 3500) on :
James, James... a pair of old school dividers works to mark the spaces out - set them and walk them along.
That's how I mark spaces for holes in leather belts and horse strapping.
and as for picking them up, I just wrap some masking tape, sticky-side out, around a finger a few times, and then rub it on your trousers to de-tack it a little, and use that finger to pick them up.
Hope that helps!
Posted by Sheila Ferrell (Member # 3741) on :
. . . lol Rusty.
gee James . . . I will never think of perfectly smooth surfaces the same way again - nor think of rivets as a pesky annoyance . . .
I am always so inspired here, I may need a new signature line . . .
