This is topic What paint for mill finish aluminum? in forum Letterhead/Pinstriper Talk at The Letterville BullBoard.


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Posted by Joy Kjer (Member # 3026) on :
 
I have some existing 1' x 6' light boxes that I am routering out some .063 aluminum panel inserts. I need to put a duranodic finish on it the inserts. What kind of paint should I use? Any special preparation?
 
Posted by Si Allen (Member # 420) on :
 
Easy answer:

1. Degrease.

2. Apply an aluminum etching primer.

3.Apply whatever finish you like.
 
Posted by Joy Kjer (Member # 3026) on :
 
Thanks Si. What do you use for a degreaser?
 
Posted by old paint (Member # 549) on :
 
BRAKE KLEEN, LACQUER THINNER, KLEENZ EASY, or any hi voc paint reducer.....wash the aluminum well let dry........prime with a epoxy primer...then any paint you wish
 
Posted by Dave Grundy (Member # 103) on :
 
Joy...I'd suggest going to any automotive parts store that sells automotive paints and solvents. They will sell you the brand of metal prep that is suitable for aluminum and the type of etching primer too.

I always advised against lacquer thinner or alcohol for "cleaning/de-greasing" because it flashes off so fast. You want something that remains on the surface long enough to "attack" the grease and then needs to be wiped off with clean rags or cheap paper towels before it evaporates. 2 or 3 successive applications are usually needed.

Rapid Prep would also work.
 
Posted by Brad Ferguson (Member # 33) on :
 
Hi Joy,
Lot's of good advice here. We do a butt-load of routered aluminum at our place.

.063" seems slightly lightweight, but it will probably work. .080" is more industry standard. I've never stud-welded to the back of .063". But maybe you are using double face tape and clear silicone to mount your acrylic backer? Definitely use 3/16" acrylic rather than 1/8".

Dave's comment about your cleaning solvent flashing too quickly is good advice. If you end up cleaning with plain lacquer thinner to avoid the high priced body shop solvents, be sure to apply liberally and wipe off while it's very wet. Here's a tip: use a 4-inch brush and a large coffee can to slosh it on. If you use a spray bottle, sometimes the cleaner evaporates too quickly. Wash and wipe in smaller areas. I do this over the entire piece at least twice, sometimes three times. Till your rag stops turning black.
Then I sand with 150 grit on a DA. Then wash again.
A good slower drying solvent for cleaning aluminum is Dupont Final Klean. It contains a lot of VM&P naphtha, a medium speed solvent. Matthews also makes a good cleaner called Metal Prep.
And I suppose you could add VM&P naphtha to lacquer thinner to get a cheap version, though Dave may know of a good reason not to do so.
At the Matthews paint school they discourage using straight lacquer thinner for cleaning. I think they are tired of their paint being blamed for failure when the real culprit is faulty prep.

Self-etching primers are available at autobody suppliers, like Si said, but I have had good success with epoxy primers as well, as Joe P. mentioned, though the dry time is much longer.
If you prime with epoxy, you may need to topcoat within a certain amount of time. Otherwise the primer gets hard as a rock and the topcoat has a hard time bonding unless you re-sand.

The main thing to remember is: Have fun! [Smile]

Brad in KC
 
Posted by Joy Kjer (Member # 3026) on :
 
Thanks for the great advice all! Brad, we can go .080 if you recommend, although the boxes are small. We haven't sent the client the estimate yet. I also thought about getting the factory painted aluminum and scuffing it up to paint over it.
 
Posted by old paint (Member # 549) on :
 
KLEENZ EASY is martin-senour AUTOMOTIVE PAINT product, equivalent to DUPONT FINAL-WASH)))))))

[ April 17, 2015, 12:25 AM: Message edited by: old paint ]
 
Posted by Dave Grundy (Member # 103) on :
 
Quit yellin' Joe!!! [Razz] [Razz]
 
Posted by old paint (Member # 549) on :
 
HEY DAVE ..BITE ME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Posted by Joy Kjer (Member # 3026) on :
 
You boys settle down now! (thank you for your help!)
 
Posted by Dave Grundy (Member # 103) on :
 
LOL Joy..Don't worry about me and Joe...I'll drive down to Pensacola and kick his butt...Pretty hard to miss a target that large!!!

I know he's too lazy to drive up to Canada to kick mine...Plus, I can run a tiny bit faster than him!!! Not much faster, but a tiny bit.

We might have to take a break every minute or so too!!! [Rolling On The Floor] [Rolling On The Floor] [Rolling On The Floor]
 
Posted by old paint (Member # 549) on :
 
been to Canada ..........and place you never been....like campbellton and delhouise)))))Quebec....
got 1 month of summer......july MAYBE)))))
 
Posted by Jean Shimp (Member # 198) on :
 
Several years ago we used Dibond that came with a duranodic finish - nice material to work with - no painting needed. Not sure if it would apply to what you are doing.
 
Posted by Joy Kjer (Member # 3026) on :
 
Yeah Jean, love Dibond & Max Metal but it's too thick for this application.
 


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